Lightly burn the top to bring the grain out & use osmo oil or spray clear lacquer over it. :)
Grain is not looking too bad so far, some of the old shellac is ingrained and will have to stay there but picks the grain out nicely. Not decided what to finish it with yet. Got a bottle of teak oil but thinking varnish might be better.
P1010022.JPG
 
Grain is not looking too bad so far, some of the old shellac is ingrained and will have to stay there but picks the grain out nicely. Not decided what to finish it with yet. Got a bottle of teak oil but thinking varnish might be better.
View attachment 226996
I'll get shot down for saying this but polyurethane varnish is probably the easiest to put on and maintain. Others will say wax it, which is very nice but needs constant redoing.
Judging by the legs, it was originally a darker colour, so you could stain it a bit darker though matching it will be likely impossible.
This is a goodish guide and does mention using danish or teak oil but right in the last two lines he mentions that polyurethane or polyacrylic "helps with longevity"
https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/how-to-refinish-a-table
 
Looking good id try a bit of French polish as @Stanleysteamer says now ive seen the table.:)
I did say that didn't I? But truth to tell, French polishing is a bit of an art and if desired,
i'd practice for quite a while on a small bit of timber first, maybe an old little side table, until confident.
If he can't be assed/isn't confident, then the other ways will be good too. But nothing gives the shine of the old shellac now, do it?
I use Ronseal varnish. It's even easier to use than it used to be, but it can leave brush-marks unless you is dead good, has the right brushes and knows how much to thin it.
But it is really hard-wearing. A dining room suite I did with it in 1984 looks as good as the day it was finished. :):):)
Best of luck.:)
 
I cut down the son's furniture and as I suspected it was cheap egg-box filled crap.

So that meant the ends that had been cut off needed to be un-made and then inserted into the new "ends".
No good turn goes unpunished does it?
View attachment 227001 View attachment 227002 View attachment 227003
Well you did say you were bored, didn't you?;)
That'll larn you!
Still at least you are having some fun, problem solving is always fun. Or is it?;)
Best of luck with the finish!:)
 
I'll get shot down for saying this but polyurethane varnish is probably the easiest to put on and maintain. Others will say wax it, which is very nice but needs constant redoing.
Judging by the legs, it was originally a darker colour, so you could stain it a bit darker though matching it will be likely impossible.
This is a goodish guide and does mention using danish or teak oil but right in the last two lines he mentions that polyurethane or polyacrylic "helps with longevity"
https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/how-to-refinish-a-table
Not making a decision until it is all sanded down, including the legs/frame. I made a workshop bench top a while back with new plywood finished with yacht varnish. Looks great but scratches too easy (well it would in a workshop wouldn't it). Currently leaning towards wax or oil (waxoyl :eek: for a landy theme??) as it will be much simpler to refresh when needed. And will be keeping the lighter look, as its far more pleasing to the eye than the original dark colour. Sample finishes will be done on some similar wood. Any way its on hold for a couple of days while I do some plumbering at the dottirs.
 
I need to order some tarmac road skimmings for the farm track. Has anyone done this and what is coverage like?
Have used tarmac scalpings for construction site compounds a couple of times. Like fresh tarmac it needs to go down on a good hardcore base otherwise it will just chew up. Avoid doing it in winter and on wet / puddled ground. Works really well on a good base in hot weather as the binder softens and re-binds the aggregates.
 

Similar threads