the old starter was definitely goosed, there is a clicking from the interior fuse panel area, so now starting the arduous task of electrical fault finding.

there is the two clicks mentioned in previous posts, one from the stick one from somewhere else indicating there is a mismatch. Will also check on the comments made about the brake switch

have had the fault reader on, just after connecting the battery I got the following codes:
P0753 - shift solenoid A
P0758 - shift solenoid B
P0763 - shift solenoid C
P1719 - 2-4 brake timing solenoid
P0702 - Gnd return (sensor earth)
P1718 - Reduction timing solenoid

however these all cleared so I think they were just due to the battery being disconnected. Still have the F4 fault.

Do the LED's by the gear lever report the correct lever position? Same question for the dash display?

yes they do (the dash display cycles back and forth from gear position and f4. However I tried rolling the car back in neutral and it was solid, the brakes are off but I still think being sat for over 4 months has caused them to bind, that shouldnt stop the starter from spinning though should it?

I also had a look at the brake switch, I can twist it but before i break it, is it just twist 90 degrees and pull hard or is there another knack to it? I was wondering if I can short some pins to rule out this switch?

The large pair of connectors that HIPPO has supplied photos of in his threads seem intact and solid enough, but I havent pulled them to check the conditions of pins.

final thought, although the car was running perfectly the day before, could it be a lack of gearbox oil, It did get changed in the previous years service so I sort of ruled it out. Is the issue with low oil due to it being required to carry out a hydraulic function as well as lubricate?

I searched on here for how to check the auto box oil level but all I found were a few threads where some people got shot down for asking without searching previous posts!

My OEDBII reader is a fairly cheap one, but im guessing if it read the initial solenoid faults due to the battery being disconnected it would read any remaining ones with the battery back on.

ok, I have found the thread on oil changes / level checks - however as my engine wont start and is clap cold I wouldnt be able to check the oil level with any accuracy - I suppose I could fill till it overflows the level check plug - and if i ever get it running let it warm up with the plug off, working through the gears to see what extra comes out. Is there a more simple way to check if you have enough oil?

The box oil level won't stop the engine starting. When you try to start it does the starter solenoid click? If so have you checked the starter fuse? It's a large bolt on isolator.

is this "large bolt on isolator" in the engine bay? i have seen some photos on other threads but they are close up i cant see the surroundings to work out where it is

They are known as Fusible Links. They are inside the triangle shaped engine bay fuse/ relay box. There are several Fusible Links fitted but I can't remember if the starter is fed by one.
This is the layout. The Fusible Links are marked FL1 to FL6

thanks for that!

ok, i removed FL 3 - which had a picture of the key on it so I assumed is ignition - that just meant I got no reaction when turning the key, so I put it back in - at least I know that one is ok.

One thing I need to correct from my earlier posts. I retraced my earlier steps. If i reconnect the battery then turn the ignition key to the first position I do not get the F4 fault, I can cycle the automatic gearstick through all positions with the led on the stick corresponding with the display on the dashboard. In reverse the reverse light and reversing sensor come on, so all seems well. It is only when I turn the key to position 2 to initiate a start that the F4, hill descent failure and battery warning light flashess fast occurs. Returning the ignition key to position one clears the flashing battery but leaves the F4 and HDC failure. Apologies if my previous posts were fuddled

If the brakes a binding then chock the front wheels: lift both rear wheels and spin them when the hand brake is oft. Then out back on the ground and do similar to the front wheels.

Won't start after forcibly moving the gear lever and ignition switch after the wasp incident...

If the auto reads the correct gear on the dash and the LED's by the lever then that will mean the auto's computer can read the lever position correctly, which is backed up by the LED's. That's a good thing. It means the wiring harness for the lever position signal should be ok.

If the car won't start I'm assuming it won't turn over the engine. This could be due to the inhibitor thing mechanism. In theory this stops it starting in anything other than park or neutral. Bearing in mind the wasp incident reaction... I'm wondering if this is the problem. Pic below shows the rear of the ignition, after the switch has been taken oft. I'm wondering if the plastic thing is damaged or fitted incorrectly. It's worth a check:

You MUST disconnect the battery and remove the key from the ignition.
Undo the 2 bolts under the steering wheel column holding the plastic around it and remove the plastic. There's also a rubber thing around the key side of the ignition switch to remove. The 2 plastic bits around the column sort of unclip apart.
Now undo the screws holding the electrical switch on the rear of the ignition and disconnect the electrical connection.
Be very careful not to annoy that bit of plastic/metal in the pic as it has a nasty habit of flying oft. It's a bit of a sod to fit and get right. You may want to take yer own pic ere for ease of fitting if you ever find it again if it escapes.
Hold yer finger on the middle metal looking thing and push in to stop it coming oft.
Now put the key in the ignition and turn it, while watching everything move ok. The car won't start (battery disconnected) but you'll see the mechanism work.
Make sure you put the key (and the mechanism it's controlling) back to the same position it was in when you took the switch off. The switch should slot into the metal middle bit.
Put it all back afterwards in reverse order it was taken apart.

You should also be able to turn the ignition key and feel a click from the plastic near the front of the gear lever plastic, which is the other end of the cable to the pin thing in the pic below.

The wasp who stung you in the neck. Did you get his or her name?


DSCN1969 XEbU31V


DSCN2856a KasBxsb

thanks ever so much for taking the time to share this, Its dark when I get home from work so I will get amongst this the weekend,

I've got 2 torches similar (no support bracket and older model) to these so I can work through the night. A must for every Freelander owner.

link dead

just had the ignition out, mine is different, its this one:-

Freelander ignition switch 02-05 Part No YXB 100350 | eBay

being a fiddler I took it apart, there is a spring in there that wasnt seating properly, I put it back as it should be and tried it, the F4 fault now occurs when you put the key to position 1 - whereas before it only came on when you went to position 2. I havent misaligned anything, I was careful to make sure it all went together as it came out.

I have ordered a replacement - at least if it still doesnt work its one more thing ruled out

Hi sounds as if you need to read all the faults on the car and not just from the gearbox ecu

i only have a basic fault reader

Did you get the problem fixed?

nope, changed the ignition switch - still no joy, its too wet and miserable here to do anything at the moment. I think I will need to move on to the gearbox solenoids as my next step

i caved in - the car has gone off to the professionals to be looked at.

Nene Overland picked it up yesterday - they were recommended by someone in work who had used them. However I have now read through a few online reviews and there seem to be mixed messages about them.

I suppose i will have to wait and see.......

NavyReg1970 said:

i caved in - the car has gone off to the professionals to be looked at.

Nene Overland picked it up yesterday - they were recommended by someone in work who had used them. However I have now read through a few online reviews and there seem to be mixed messages about them.

I suppose i will have to wait and see.......

Click to expand...

I once asked them if they serviced Freelanders and could do my v6 timing belt. They said no to the belt. Other than that I've had nothing to do with them and have never used them due to this. Make sure you find out as much info about yer fault and what they do to fix it, and report back.

Most online reviews only get generated when peeps have problems. Nene are known for being expensive but they need to make a profit and pay the costs of running a business etc. They're known for charging an arm and a leg for work but you may want to enquire if it has to be yours. You could probably pick up some cheap from yer local hospital AnE or mortuary.