lorri789

lorri789

Well-Known Member
As the title, I need to reset the timing to get it to start - every time. It will start and run fine, but I go to start it in a couple of days and it just cranks. Once I redo the timing, then bingo.

Is this my timing chain? It was very slack, I'm just looking for ideas before I go ahead and do this.
 
Are you saying the distributor needs resetting because timing has moved? Can really only be pinion connection to distributor.
 
I have known the timing gears on the early rover 3.5 to slip because the gear was a type of plastic but i dont know if yours is that early.
 
yep, I need to withdraw the dizzy and redo static timing and then it will start again no problem. When I come to start it again, I need to do the same over.

Bizarre.
 
Just a thought, might be completely different on these.
On the old Ford V6, there was a screw gear on the camshaft with a hexagon shaft running through it driving the distributer and the oil pump. It used to round off on the corners rendering the oil pump useless and killing the engine in short order. Just wondering if there is some kind of similar thing happening here?
 
I have a spare dizzy, so I'll pop that in and see. I have been told that the cam timing and all the other stuff can get out of line and I'll have to take a peek inside.

It's just weird that I have to reset the timing all the time i want to restart. One more thing; when I was trying to retard the timing it was near impossible. The tiniest movement and the engine would die and I would have to find TDC again.
 
The shaft on the fords was separate to the distributor.
Just thought of another one I had, not related to dizzy timing but cam timing. I had a straight 6 opel commodore that used to jump a tooth on the cam timing sprocket when started. The guides were tired and the hydraulic tensioner was goosed. Once it was running, it was fine. But taking off the rocker cover every time I started it just to set the cam timing one tooth ahead was a PITA.
There was so much slack in the chain, you could just lift it and move it round a tooth.

There is obviously something on yours that is worn on the drive to the dizzy allowing it to move when stopped.
 
I did poke my finger through when I had the sump off and the chain is very, very slack. I'm going from there. I have parts whizzing their way to me. I ordered better quality stuff.
 
lorri789 said:
I did poke my finger through when I had the sump off and the chain is very, very slack. I'm going from there. I have parts whizzing their way to me. I ordered better quality stuff.
Click to expand...

It is NOT the timing chain the valves would be making love to the pistons if it was slack enough to effect the distributor.
 
So then, I was out fiddling and I still had the vac advance off and blocked for static timing. I shoved it back on and it started.

It was revving about 1800rpm and when I tried to retard it a smidgen it just died and would not start again. When it's running it's all vroom vroom and sounds good.

Bugger. I do have a spare dizzy, but not had time to fit it.
 
lorri789 said:
So then, I was out fiddling and I still had the vac advance off and blocked for static timing. I shoved it back on and it started.

It was revving about 1800rpm and when I tried to retard it a smidgen it just died and would not start again. When it's running it's all vroom vroom and sounds good.

Bugger. I do have a spare dizzy, but not had time to fit it.
Click to expand...

You may have a problem with the electronic pickup. Broken wire or something.
 
I remember having to do this. It got to the point I was adjusting everyday. Had the distrubuter out so many times, regreased, & refitted.

It turned out to be the Engine ECU failing. The miles per gallon also went down to approx 4 or 5 miles per gallon in the end.
 
The dizzy's on these wasn't that great. You could try & source another dizzy & see if that make's a difference.

I sold mine, a 4 door classic 3.5 efi, as I got fed up with the economy. It was the next owner that informed me the ECU was shot.
 
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