Hello All,

Well im back,hehe my pc was as reliable as my P38,,, so got a new bugger.

Now i know there was a threas on this prob, i just cant find it ,,, the prob is ( no not me this time ), "hard to start in the morning". Ive been double flashing the heaters and its been ok but the last couple of weeks if it dont fire on the first turn of the crank it then take ages to wind itself into life ,,, but once its fired up it will start first click all day ,,,,,

Any ideas please
 
Hello All,

Well im back,hehe my pc was as reliable as my P38,,, so got a new bugger.

Now i know there was a threas on this prob, i just cant find it ,,, the prob is ( no not me this time ), "hard to start in the morning". Ive been double flashing the heaters and its been ok but the last couple of weeks if it dont fire on the first turn of the crank it then take ages to wind itself into life ,,, but once its fired up it will start first click all day ,,,,,

Any ideas please

Check ECU temp sensor. Check glow plugs are actually lighting up sounds like you have a few not working. You need good plugs on at least three consecutively firing cylinders to have a chance.
 
Hello All,

Well im back,hehe my pc was as reliable as my P38,,, so got a new bugger.

Now i know there was a threas on this prob, i just cant find it ,,, the prob is ( no not me this time ), "hard to start in the morning". Ive been double flashing the heaters and its been ok but the last couple of weeks if it dont fire on the first turn of the crank it then take ages to wind itself into life ,,, but once its fired up it will start first click all day ,,,,,

Any ideas please

In-tank pump failing. You've got to wait for the FIP to drag up enough fuel to get you going.
Heater plugs. What Wammers said.
Leak-off pipes leaking. You're having to clear the air out before you've got fuel to fire.
All of these would normally only cause problems after the car has sat for a while.
:D
 
Sounds most like glow plugs to me - if it was leak off pipes or tank pump it wouldn't be ok for the rest of the day (as the fuel would drain back again after less than an hour - mine used to) - a new set of plugs (all 6) should be less than 30 quid & they're a doddle to fit. When mine finally refused to start in the cold I tested them as I swapped them for new ones & I'd only got 2 working...
 
Thank you Lads,

Well thats my saturday done for. One more thing i got,,,, at times when i floor it i get a loud induction roar,,, but its intermittent,,, hasnt done it for a while,,,,, only effect seems to be a small lose in power,,,, ive checked all the intake ducts and joints and all seems well.
 
The roar *could* be the Viscous fan spinning up....

When mine gets warm and the viscous fan unit cuts in to cool the rad down, there is a noticable change in engine noise...a roar if you like when you give it some gas....

It usually happens when the engine starts from cold as well when the viscous unit hasn't warmed up yet and the clutch fluid is thicker and cold.
 
Get good quality glow plugs, Delphi, OEM, NGK or Bosch. cheapo's either don't work or fail quickly.
 
The roar *could* be the Viscous fan spinning up....

When mine gets warm and the viscous fan unit cuts in to cool the rad down, there is a noticable change in engine noise...a roar if you like when you give it some gas....

It usually happens when the engine starts from cold as well when the viscous unit hasn't warmed up yet and the clutch fluid is thicker and cold.


Bit of a contradiction in that statement. Viscous unit should be reasonably free rotating when engine and unit are cold. But lock up when they get hot. If you turn it by hand when engine is cold, it should move freely after a couple of turns if it doesn't fit a new one.
 
Bit of a contradiction in that statement. Viscous unit should be reasonably free rotating when engine and unit are cold. But lock up when they get hot. If you turn it by hand when engine is cold, it should move freely after a couple of turns if it doesn't fit a new one.

The silicone drags when cold so they always roar a bit when cold in my experience. Soon stops as the stuff gets churned up. Engagement when hot is by the bi-metalic strip on the front altering the angle of the internal vanes:)
 
The silicone drags when cold so they always roar a bit when cold in my experience. Soon stops as the stuff gets churned up. Engagement when hot is by the bi-metalic strip on the front altering the angle of the internal vanes:)


Yeah Keith there are a couple of ways of doing it. But other than the coldest mornings it should free off turning it by hand a few times. Just depends i suppose on the design of the coupling. As i have said before you should be able to stop or hold it with finger pressure when the engine is cold. But don't try that unless you have done it before and know what your about.
 

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