dag019
Well-Known Member
The whole things is fairly bad @miktdish was spot on with his fizzing comment earlier! In hindsight I should have done the whole floor rather than just the second row seat box. But I am too far down the line now. I have some Ali sheet so think I will make a full width panel between the wheel boxes to rivet in place over the top of these holes. Rather than replace the floor. The rest of the floor seems to be ok.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Separate thread here LINK, but posted here as well to keep things together.
I am rebuilding a station wagon rear body to swap onto my hard top. And have been confidently planning to use my existing roof as I have already refurbished, painted and sealed it. Shame on everyone for not pointing this out to me earlier!! It also does not have alpine windows or a sunroof like the station wagon roof I have. Today I removed the station wagon roof ready for removing the rear body and noticed the roof is not the same.
The station wagon roof has an additional lip for the second row door seals that a hardtop roof does not have. I do not really have the time or inclination to restore the station wagon roof as do not want a sunroof. So my options are modify my hardtop roof or buy a non sunroof station wagon roof (seem to be very expensive)
Looking at the parts manual the truck cab door seal is a separate piece (number 2). Does anyone know how this is attached to the roof or have any photos of theirs as this may work to retro fit to my hardtop roof for the second row doors.
Or does anyone have any other suggestions or a station wagon roof for sale?
I am rebuilding a station wagon rear body to swap onto my hard top. And have been confidently planning to use my existing roof as I have already refurbished, painted and sealed it. Shame on everyone for not pointing this out to me earlier!! It also does not have alpine windows or a sunroof like the station wagon roof I have. Today I removed the station wagon roof ready for removing the rear body and noticed the roof is not the same.
The station wagon roof has an additional lip for the second row door seals that a hardtop roof does not have. I do not really have the time or inclination to restore the station wagon roof as do not want a sunroof. So my options are modify my hardtop roof or buy a non sunroof station wagon roof (seem to be very expensive)
Looking at the parts manual the truck cab door seal is a separate piece (number 2). Does anyone know how this is attached to the roof or have any photos of theirs as this may work to retro fit to my hardtop roof for the second row doors.
Or does anyone have any other suggestions or a station wagon roof for sale?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
I thought the roofs were the same…
Thought the only difference would be the extra lips for the door seals
Thought the only difference would be the extra lips for the door seals
dag019
Well-Known Member
That was my assumption. I will have a look at the station wagon roof next time I am at the vehicle. But think it is part of the roof rather than an add on hence the different part numbers.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Look behind your seals on the 90 and that’s the design needed.they look like angle iron just pop rivited into place
dag019
Well-Known Member
Having been quoted £1350 for a station wagon roof from a chap breaking one on Facebook I am very much back to modifying my existing one! Some pics of the front door seal mount and it is just some angle spot welded to the roof on the hardtop
Now I just need some photos of someone with a truck cab that has the separate seal mounts to see how they are mounted. But it is looking like ordering a pair of truck cab mounts and riveting on is the best bet at the moment.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
If no joy I will take some photos the weekend of my truck cab.Having been quoted £1350 for a station wagon roof from a chap breaking one on Facebook I am very much back to modifying my existing one! Some pics of the front door seal mount and it is just some angle spot welded to the roof on the hardtop
Now I just need some photos of someone with a truck cab that has the separate seal mounts to see how they are mounted. But it is looking like ordering a pair of truck cab mounts and riveting on is the best bet at the moment.
Remind me Friday night ….
dag019
Well-Known Member
Quick reminder, if I could have some photos of your truck cab would be much appreciated. Apologies I forgot Friday, got a little distracted with the below update!
dag019
Well-Known Member
The rear body is off!
This revealed just how bad the floor crossmembers were so glad I got replacements for those. Will throw before and after pics up of them when they are replaced this week. Once they have been done I believe the body will be ready for fitting. So I will then need to take the plunge and dismantle mine ready to swap over.
Removing this did work as a proof of concept that I do not need to remove the seat box. And it can be left in place and shuffled about on the sill rails to allow the rear body to move. This means I do not need to remove all the wiring for additional fuse panels and relays I have in mine making the job easier and quicker.
Anyone have any tips or things I need to be aware of for the swap over?
Rough plan is:
Remove hardtop rear body
Remove hardtop chassis brackets
Chassis wax top side of chassis rail while exposed
For station wagon chassis brackets and mid crossmember
Chassis wax top side and brackets (again, can’t have too much)
Fit station wagon body
(Swear lots that nothing lines up properly)
Fit doors
(Swear lots that nothing lines up properly)
Fit rear seats, lights etc.
Drive off into the sunset hopefully about 48hours after starting.
This revealed just how bad the floor crossmembers were so glad I got replacements for those. Will throw before and after pics up of them when they are replaced this week. Once they have been done I believe the body will be ready for fitting. So I will then need to take the plunge and dismantle mine ready to swap over.
Removing this did work as a proof of concept that I do not need to remove the seat box. And it can be left in place and shuffled about on the sill rails to allow the rear body to move. This means I do not need to remove all the wiring for additional fuse panels and relays I have in mine making the job easier and quicker.
Anyone have any tips or things I need to be aware of for the swap over?
Rough plan is:
Remove hardtop rear body
Remove hardtop chassis brackets
Chassis wax top side of chassis rail while exposed
For station wagon chassis brackets and mid crossmember
Chassis wax top side and brackets (again, can’t have too much)
Fit station wagon body
(Swear lots that nothing lines up properly)
Fit doors
(Swear lots that nothing lines up properly)
Fit rear seats, lights etc.
Drive off into the sunset hopefully about 48hours after starting.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Will do this Sunday.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
dag019
Well-Known Member
Very much appreciated thank you. And shows the seal mount is just riveted on as a separate part rather than an integrated part of the roof. I have just won a local truck cab roof on eBay for £30 (very dented and battered) so that will give me the seal brackets that I need and can use your measurements combined with the details from @julianf on my other thread to convert my roof to a station wagon roof.
dag019
Well-Known Member
What purpose do these little plastic seatbelt clips serve on a station wagon? I do not have them on my hardtop but the seatbelt mounts in different position. I have the little plastic clips but would obviously need to drill holes in my hardtop seat box and cover to fit them (I have the same setup as pictured). I am reluctant to do this unless they serve a vital and important purpose. Pic form google:
dag019
Well-Known Member
Nor had I until I got a stationagpn. But they are fitted to the donor which is a ‘88 so clearly not a new thing.
That was my guess. Or keep the belt itself away from the top angle edge of the seat box to prevent it wearing? I might not bother with them and see what happens. If it starts to fray or keeps getting trapped in the door I can fit them.
dag019
Well-Known Member
dag019
Well-Known Member
separate thread here: LINK but copied onto this thread as well to keep everything together
I thought I already had a thread on this but cannot find it.
I currently have nothing so have bought 347844 from YRM and am following the below instructions form my parts manual for retrofitting seatbelts to the rear:
I am very happy with how to fit the bracket to the body, it bolts to the existing bolt through the floor, c-pillar, and front floor support. The top bolt then needs drilling to mount the top of it. Instruction 3.3 is drilling the hole for the seatbelt to mount to. This only mentions the lower hole needing drilling, which makes sense as there is only one part of the seatbelt that needs mounting. This would give the setup pictures below (pic form google) which I think is correct and what I want:
However the bracket also has an upper seatbelt fixing point seen here in the picture of the bracket, and seen here in a picture from gwyn lewis mud shield advert being used for something with a bolt in it:
Can anyone confirm what the upper mount if for, and if I need it for anything on my setup. I want to get the wheel are sound proofed and the brackets bolted in before fitting the tub to the vehicle and if needed will need to drill it out before soundproofing.
I thought I already had a thread on this but cannot find it.
I currently have nothing so have bought 347844 from YRM and am following the below instructions form my parts manual for retrofitting seatbelts to the rear:
I am very happy with how to fit the bracket to the body, it bolts to the existing bolt through the floor, c-pillar, and front floor support. The top bolt then needs drilling to mount the top of it. Instruction 3.3 is drilling the hole for the seatbelt to mount to. This only mentions the lower hole needing drilling, which makes sense as there is only one part of the seatbelt that needs mounting. This would give the setup pictures below (pic form google) which I think is correct and what I want:
However the bracket also has an upper seatbelt fixing point seen here in the picture of the bracket, and seen here in a picture from gwyn lewis mud shield advert being used for something with a bolt in it:
Can anyone confirm what the upper mount if for, and if I need it for anything on my setup. I want to get the wheel are sound proofed and the brackets bolted in before fitting the tub to the vehicle and if needed will need to drill it out before soundproofing.
dag019
Well-Known Member
replaced the tub supports today, the job would have been a lot easier with two people but I managed on my own despite the snow!
When I stripped the old ones off I realised I should have also replaced the top hats but I don't have time for that as need it ready to fit next week, these are not completely rotted away so should be fine for a while and unlike the hardtop I cannot see the back of the station wagon taking huge loads as that will now be reserved for the trailer. These were the galv crossmembers from YRM that were then zinc oxide primed, tractor enamel top coated, covered liberally in dinitrol, and then foam taped to keep separate form the aluminium. So I am hoping it will last well.
When I stripped the old ones off I realised I should have also replaced the top hats but I don't have time for that as need it ready to fit next week, these are not completely rotted away so should be fine for a while and unlike the hardtop I cannot see the back of the station wagon taking huge loads as that will now be reserved for the trailer. These were the galv crossmembers from YRM that were then zinc oxide primed, tractor enamel top coated, covered liberally in dinitrol, and then foam taped to keep separate form the aluminium. So I am hoping it will last well.
