bluedog333
Well-Known Member
These are the only photos I took. I was too p*ssed off the rest of the time! 
dag019
Well-Known Member
I am not planning on taking the floor out. I am removing the tub anyway to fit it to my current 110 hardtop so was planning on standing it on end and removing the crossmembers from below and leave the floor in place. Is the hard steel fixings for the crossmembers or the floor? I thought the crossmembers were just riveted in?
I have bought lots of rivets from yrm as part of the other orders. And I bought the Milwaukee electric rivet gun which is a real game changer. Made fitting the cappings and rear windows a dream which is all I have used it for so far.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Quick question for people on here. Do I have the wrong mid chassis crossmember? The one I have had delivered from YRM look like this:
The one I have fitted to the station wagon is a much smaller piece of box section:
The brackets that bolt to the tub look the same. They are separate on the yrm one. And I ordered according to the paperwork the āHDG rear body chassis mid crossmember - LR defender 110 4 or 5 door (83-06)ā. Will the one I have painted fit despite being a very different size. Or have YRM sent me the wrong part for the later models?
The one I have fitted to the station wagon is a much smaller piece of box section:
The brackets that bolt to the tub look the same. They are separate on the yrm one. And I ordered according to the paperwork the āHDG rear body chassis mid crossmember - LR defender 110 4 or 5 door (83-06)ā. Will the one I have painted fit despite being a very different size. Or have YRM sent me the wrong part for the later models?
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
In that case you probably just need to remove the four rivets per support (me thinks). If I knew how much work mine was going to be I probably would have done what you are planning and take the tub out.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
The YRM part looks correct. Iāll take a photo tomorrow to show how it attaches.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
The above is a closeup of this
dag019
Well-Known Member
Many thanks. Does that mean my box section one is just an earlier version? Assume they mount in the same way but the c-channel one is slightly less of a rust trap?
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bluedog333
Well-Known Member
The pressed section must be a rust trap as mine looks like it has been replaced in the past. The box section looks a bit homemade, did the job though. Talking of rust traps, there are a couple of those on the back of the a-frame crossmember. These need covering with a metal plate welded on. Iāll try and find a picture, if I can.
dag019
Well-Known Member
From distant memory I think a friends '89 station wagon also had a box section crossmember when he removed the body (did it the wrong way around and converted a station wagon to a pickup!) so it may just be what the earlier ones had?
Some pics would certainly be appreciated but this will be fitted to my current 110 which has a galv chassis so not planning on welding on it unless absolutely necessary, but when the hard top tub is off and before refitting the station wagon tub, I will take the opportunity to fully coat the top side of the chassis with dintirol.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Bit an update, as I managed to escape for a couple of hours yesterday.
Rear seats and rear carpet is now removed ready for removing the rear floor panels and seat box.
Removing the carpet uncovered more horrors and was hiding all sorts of horrible. The large hole in the seat box where it mounts to the mid crossmember is not a problem as that is part of the replacement panel. but what is annoying is all of the bolts in the floor panels and toe plate no longer look like bolts after a lifetime under damp carpet so they will all need cutting off for removal.
And because it had horrible carpet fitted there is lots of old glue remnants. does anyone have a magic potions what will remove this or is it just lots of laborious sanding and scraping? Luckily I think it is only the toe plate that is being kept that has the residue on it but will still be more work than I would like.
On a more positive note this rebuild is paying for itself (at least that is what I am telling the wife), look at all the treasures that were lurking under the carpet.
Rear seats and rear carpet is now removed ready for removing the rear floor panels and seat box.
Removing the carpet uncovered more horrors and was hiding all sorts of horrible. The large hole in the seat box where it mounts to the mid crossmember is not a problem as that is part of the replacement panel. but what is annoying is all of the bolts in the floor panels and toe plate no longer look like bolts after a lifetime under damp carpet so they will all need cutting off for removal.
And because it had horrible carpet fitted there is lots of old glue remnants. does anyone have a magic potions what will remove this or is it just lots of laborious sanding and scraping? Luckily I think it is only the toe plate that is being kept that has the residue on it but will still be more work than I would like.
On a more positive note this rebuild is paying for itself (at least that is what I am telling the wife), look at all the treasures that were lurking under the carpet.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
This sort of disc is invaluable for removing glue/paint/rust etc. I got through a few when doing mine. Cheaper in multiple packs on Amazon, eBay.
www.toolstation.com
Abracs Poly Abrasive Disc
Attach this poly abrasive disc to your angle grinder tool to remove surface imperfection from your material. The Abracs disc can be used on a wide range of materials such as metal, concrete, stainless steel and aluminium. The synthetic resin coating clings to rust, paint and other contaminants...
www.toolstation.com
dag019
Well-Known Member
Many thanks. Not come across those before. I will give them ago. Says safe for Ali so I assume hard enough to remove paint and imperfections. But not hard enough to remove metal?This sort of disc is invaluable for removing glue/paint/rust etc. I got through a few when doing mine. Cheaper in multiple packs on Amazon, eBay.
Abracs Poly Abrasive Disc
Attach this poly abrasive disc to your angle grinder tool to remove surface imperfection from your material. The Abracs disc can be used on a wide range of materials such as metal, concrete, stainless steel and aluminium. The synthetic resin coating clings to rust, paint and other contaminants...
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Eggsackery. Theyāre very good!
dag019
Well-Known Member
Do you have any pictures of how the mid crossmember mounts? It is not obvious from my chassis or from the parts manual.
Having removed the floor (more updates on that to follow) it appears that the box section I have as a mid crossmember may be welded to the little brackets shown in the photo:
There does not appear to be any more bolts holding it into position. But it is fairly still in positions and couple of gently persuading taps with a hammer made no difference. The tree slider/steps are not actually bolted to it despite the bracket being there in place.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Some more progress today. The second row floor panel came out very easily once all of the once bolts had their heads cut off.
Next it was drilling out the spot welds holding the floor side panels into place, and the top edge of the seatbox front panel. A few taps of a hammer and sharp chisel into the joint and it was off.
The condition of the front panel shows why I am replacing it. And the condition of the front steel crossmember makes me glad I have replacements for all of the tub crossmembers.
I have to say that the solid dome head rivets used for securing the crossmember to the tub floor were particularly terrible to take out as they seem to be recessed into a dimple in the floor making it difficult to grind them off without damaging the floor. Anyone have any suggestions for easy removal? Will they be easier to remove once the tub is off and I can cut the bottom and knock through where I am less worried about damaging the surrounding as it is being replaced?
Next it was drilling out the spot welds holding the floor side panels into place, and the top edge of the seatbox front panel. A few taps of a hammer and sharp chisel into the joint and it was off.
The condition of the front panel shows why I am replacing it. And the condition of the front steel crossmember makes me glad I have replacements for all of the tub crossmembers.
I have to say that the solid dome head rivets used for securing the crossmember to the tub floor were particularly terrible to take out as they seem to be recessed into a dimple in the floor making it difficult to grind them off without damaging the floor. Anyone have any suggestions for easy removal? Will they be easier to remove once the tub is off and I can cut the bottom and knock through where I am less worried about damaging the surrounding as it is being replaced?
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dag019
Well-Known Member
Finally a question of how to fit the replacement floor panel. I have the extended panel from YRM which has the floor section included for the full width front. I assume this goes over the top of the existing floor as the top hat sections prevent it going underneath. Similarly the angled arch extensions I assume go on top? Can anyone confirm?
Next I need to remove the toe plate so it can be painted and allow for easy fitting of the b-pillar.
Clean up and give a quick cost of paint the to ali lips that will have the new floor reverted to the top of them and then foam tape and fit the floor.
Also on an ordering of things do I
fit the floor before the sills
fit the sills first so the floor can line up correctly (only pre drilled holes at the side mounts for the sill bracket)
For them at the same time so the floor is in but not secured, fit the sills, and then line up And rivet the floor?
Next I need to remove the toe plate so it can be painted and allow for easy fitting of the b-pillar.
Clean up and give a quick cost of paint the to ali lips that will have the new floor reverted to the top of them and then foam tape and fit the floor.
Also on an ordering of things do I
fit the floor before the sills
fit the sills first so the floor can line up correctly (only pre drilled holes at the side mounts for the sill bracket)
For them at the same time so the floor is in but not secured, fit the sills, and then line up And rivet the floor?
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Youāve been busy! Iāll take a photo or two tomorrow.
dag019
Well-Known Member
The days are closing in and the weather is deteriorating! I was hoping to have the body swap done by the end of the summer at this rate I will be lucky to have it complete for winter. I canāt swap the body until I have rebuilt the body!
Photos would be much appreciated. While you are at it (assuming you have them) is there any chance you could take some photos of the second row seatbelt lower mountings please. I have the parts, I need to work out where to drill the hole, and have these pictures from another forum. But I cannot obviously work out how the bracket under the tub mounts to the tub/crossmember for the seatbelt to then bolt to it. It looks like it is bolted in the picture from below. But cannot see bolts in the picture from above?
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Yeah, no problem. I was also going to reply to your other post - are you replacing the load bay floor, or the second row floor?
dag019
Well-Known Member
Second row floor. The load bay floor and top hats seem to be in good condition. And the whole load bay will get a piece of stable matting out over the top of it all once finished as well to protect it.
I have the second row āseat boxā panel from YRM pictured in my previous post #45 (EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND) and the end caps. But because this is the extended version it has the vertical panels and the horizontal panel as a single piece so it will sit over the top of the end of the load bay floor and up onto the sloped panels of the wheel boxes by a couple Of inches.
