Sticky stuff remover ..
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dag019
Well-Known Member
Adding this thread link here regarding second row seatbelts so everything is in one place: LINK
My station wagon currently has no rear seatbelts fitted but clearly did at some point. I am trying to work out what I need to get proper inertia reel seatbelts in the second row of seats. As I do more research I am coming to the conclusion that the rear seatbelts in mine would originally have been static belts. Obviously no use for a child seat which is the main reason for needing a station wagon!
My station wagon currently has no rear seatbelts fitted but clearly did at some point. I am trying to work out what I need to get proper inertia reel seatbelts in the second row of seats. As I do more research I am coming to the conclusion that the rear seatbelts in mine would originally have been static belts. Obviously no use for a child seat which is the main reason for needing a station wagon!
dag019
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if there are specific repair panels for the rear seat box parts of a station wagon tub? I could not immidiatly see anything on yrm and am happy o make up my own sections of Ali and glue/rivet into place if needed. But both side are in similar condition. Also have no idea what the cables are but they go to the rear inside the capping so are Definitly not original!
dag019
Well-Known Member
LINK: EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR).
LINK: FLOOR END CAPS, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR)
Can anyone confirm if this looks like the correct parts to repair this? I will call/email YRM to confirm but as its Sunday they are not open until tomorrow. Also if it is has anyone replaced this piece and can share their experience? Looking at it I don't think I need to remove the tub to fit it. To rpelace this part I will need to remvoe th seats and the carpet whcih will give me a better visibility of the rest of the tub but the rear floor look sin good condition. Is there anything else on a station wagon tub that is likely to be equally oxidised that I should look at repairing (already ordered galv tub support for the rear floor)
yes, these are the parts you need.
you shouldnt need to remove the tub to repair, just cut out the old floor these should have tabs that slide into each wheel well and you can rivet into place.
there are some bolts for the seats that go through the front that go to the mid crossmember in front of the tub so you will want to replace this at the same time otherwise you will struggle have to bend to get it in later. this will give a lip for the middle floor to sit on you may have to drill holes for the retainers/nut plates.
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dag019
Well-Known Member
many thanks for confirming, now added to my existing yrm order and some more work to complete. Do you know if these can be replaced without removing the tub? They look like they could at a glance, but I need to remove the seats first to properly inspect.
i editied my above reply with the extra info.
dag019
Well-Known Member
The rear tub will be removed at some point and the mid crossmember replaced when it is fitted to my current hardtop vehicle which does not have one. But I want to as much of the tub rebuild in situ before I remove it as possible.
what do you mean bend later? The middle floor currently site on a lip i assumed this was part of what is being replaced with this new panel as that has also disintegrated at both ends. drilling holes is no problem, I was planning on fitting bolt rather than screws anyway as that is what I have done with my front floor panels.
Ah if your rebuilding the tub fully first then moving you will be fine on the crossmember side.
But you will want to be careful on a few points as YRM work to land Rover tollerances.
the C pillar is a right pain in the arse on a CSW as there are 3 bits that come together between the mid crossmember, C post and Tub floor.
Corner repair pieces
if you repair on the current vehicle and then move it you could have issues with clearance on the corner pieces unless you make it very slightly smaller to be safe but you could end up with a bigger gap on new car between the front of the tub floor and the c post. you may get a better looking repair doing those on the new car/later.
Front of tub repair pieces
There is a re-enforcment strip that runs on the underside of the front of the tub. not fitted to the repair section (check with YRM may have changed). be careful on its placement relative to the c post bracket when fitting to the tub you dont want the holes for the c post to go through/or close to the middle of the re-enforcement otherwise you wont be able to bolt it down properly.
Seat brackets front of tub
save the seat brackets they are hard to order i ended up getting Exmore trim seats as couldn’t wait any more, to get new seat brackets for the older style low/folding seats was on back order for 6 months and couldn’t get an eta in all that time.
When i did mine i watched the land rover assembly video on youtube and built mine up in the same way, i got a real appreciation for land rovers line workers as nothing ever lines up.
the replacement piece wont have holes in the lip for floor (i don’t think, YRM may have changed)
By bend was more for if you changed mid crossmember with tub in situ, you have to bend the front of the tub up to get crossmember in (YRM do a kit where the crossmember is in pieces so you can slide in) but probably not needed for what your doing. LR workshop have a video of fitting that will show if anyone needs.
dag019
Well-Known Member
based on that IS it best to do the floor repair before refitting the sills or after? It was only when removing the sills I realised how bad the floor was so I currently have no sill/b/c pillar fitted and have the new fully galv one-piece ones ready to refit from YRM
I have ordered that part along with the other tub support crossmembers. That is the only thing I am planning on doing once the tub is removed before refitting to the other vehicle. i am trying to do everything else in situ so the swap over job is quicker. Rough plan is remove this tub, replace tub supports, remove hard top tub, bolt csw tub to chassis, drive away with a station wagon. If only it was that simple
. But the hardtop is my daily so want it off the road for a little time as possible.Which seat brackets are you referring to? Short term it will keep the seats that are currently fitted but when time and finances allow I would like at least the outers to be the high back version and they will come form exmoor trim. The current seat do need some work however as the retaining brackets for the back tilt, and whole seat tils are either bent or seized and the seats currently just move freely.
Depends on the finish your happy to live with.
rebuilding the tub on the new chassis with the c post in place would give you the ability to get everything spot on but cost will probably be 1/2 a day on change over and you may have issues with your paint work from fitting/drilling.
you only need 2mm each side to account for the +/-1mm on the other 3 bits if you wanted to pre build and you can use tiger seal to fill any gaps. will allways need a little anyway to fully seal.
I have ordered that part along with the other tub support crossmembers. That is the only thing I am planning on doing once the tub is removed before refitting to the other vehicle. i am trying to do everything else in situ so the swap over job is quicker. Rough plan is remove this tub, replace tub supports, remove hard top tub, bolt csw tub to chassis, drive away with a station wagon. If only it was that simple
Are you chainging the rear floor panel for a new YRM one?
if you are you will need the front together to hold tub square while repairing.
on fitting the YRM side assembly i got 4 bits of wood 2 for each side to set the front door gaps from the b pillar to the bulkhead (34 3/4") as per mike's (britrest) advice on Youtube. this will then help set your c post in the correct place (dont just assume the tub/c post fit 100%) I then put the toe panel in on the b post/chassis to hold it all in place to drill/final fit c post.
along the front of your rear tub there are 4 brackets for the seats the bolts will be hellish to remove but you will need to recover those 4 brackets and rust treat if you want to move the seats over. you can buy them but god knows when.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Many thanks for the recommendation but after scraping off the sticker with a Stanley blade old fashioned purple meths happily removed the residue. I do not know why people like to stick things to the rear windows but it ost annoying. i do not know if it something everyone does or if it is just that the ones with things stuck to them are cheaper and I am too tight to spend lots of money on nicer ones. but the ones I fitted to the td5 90 i also had to remove stickers and poorly applied privacy tint from.Sticky stuff remover ..
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One window donw one to go, turned out ok even if I say so myself. I now just need to work out what the runners are (other than disintegrating) are they just a felt channel similar to the door tops?
Before:
After:
dag019
Well-Known Member
Finally managed to fit the cappings today. Feels like a huge step forward as it was one of the four things on the original to do list (cappings, sill/bpillar, paint, doors - with rear floor added as a fifth during work). Although the others are all in progress to get one finished is a good feeling.
I also managed to clean down and sand the sides and back ready for a paint. But need to fit the sb/c pillars first so the rovers also get painted. This did uncover one of my biggest pet hates which is body filler. In my option it has no place on a land rover which should wear its marks from 30 years of use with pride. I have sanded down and feathered the edges where parts had cracked off, I have no intention of adding more but also do not want to remove everything back to bare metal.
Whilst I am complaining about the state previous owners have left it in I am just going to leave this picture here with no comment!
I also managed to clean down and sand the sides and back ready for a paint. But need to fit the sb/c pillars first so the rovers also get painted. This did uncover one of my biggest pet hates which is body filler. In my option it has no place on a land rover which should wear its marks from 30 years of use with pride. I have sanded down and feathered the edges where parts had cracked off, I have no intention of adding more but also do not want to remove everything back to bare metal.
Whilst I am complaining about the state previous owners have left it in I am just going to leave this picture here with no comment!
dag019
Well-Known Member
Well here is a horrible expensive pile of shiny parts that have been changed to a horrible expensive pile of non shiny parts with the help of some T-wash. I just wish it reduced the price tag as well as the shine!
Now all give a first coat of zinc 182 so they look like they belong on a horrible little Fergie (bonus point for anyone who can find the proper tractor part off the fordson hidden on the bench!)
More bonus points for anyone who recognises all of the land rover parts here and can give me any helpful hints and tips for fitting this lot (I will have the tub removed for fitting)
Why is it that some much of a rebuild is spent painting things. I hate painting and don't have the patience for it, not to mention with only a single garage i don't have the space for it either!
Now all give a first coat of zinc 182 so they look like they belong on a horrible little Fergie (bonus point for anyone who can find the proper tractor part off the fordson hidden on the bench!)
More bonus points for anyone who recognises all of the land rover parts here and can give me any helpful hints and tips for fitting this lot (I will have the tub removed for fitting)
Why is it that some much of a rebuild is spent painting things. I hate painting and don't have the patience for it, not to mention with only a single garage i don't have the space for it either!
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Snap. I did all that a few months ago. I “employed” some child labour, which helped, mostly.
dag019
Well-Known Member
In which case could I request any photos/tips you have for doing it? I also note that in your child labour photo you have an extra piece at the rear that I do not have, what is this part, is it the rear threshold?
Unfortunately my child labour is not old enough to be "employed" as help unless something needs chewing or dribbling on. This was bought for his birthday (the day he was born) with a view to make my 110 baby friendly, and give him a 110 when he is old enough to actually help rebuild it and reach the pedals.
Also have you/will you do the second row seat box repairs? That is next on my list, to remove the seats, replace the seat box with the panels form YRM (already painted as the shiny black bit you can see in my photo), then refit the cpillar/sills. After that is done on the vehicle to line things up I will then remove the tub to replace the underside. I am tyring to work concurrently so I am not waiting for paint to dry before I can do the next part.
dag019
Well-Known Member
Little more progress to report, my load bearing fence posts have now been removed having built up and refitted the rear sides. it is now moving towards looking like an ebay special where the outside is all nice and shiny but don't look underneath!
I need to remove the carpet (who thought carpet in a defender was a good idea) so that I can see what I am doing to remove the seats and the second row seat box. As long as the weather holds that is the plan for the weekend, any free time tomorrow will be spent repairing a puncture in a tractor tyre to continue paying off my rent bill for the use of a friends barn for my 110 fire rebuild!
I need to remove the carpet (who thought carpet in a defender was a good idea) so that I can see what I am doing to remove the seats and the second row seat box. As long as the weather holds that is the plan for the weekend, any free time tomorrow will be spent repairing a puncture in a tractor tyre to continue paying off my rent bill for the use of a friends barn for my 110 fire rebuild!
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
I didn’t take many photos, I was concentrating on getting the work done as quickly as possible as I needed the Landy back on the road ASAP after my work van died!
I only thought I was doing an A-frame crossmember replacement, plus some chassis repairs, but when I took the floor off all the fun and games began!
New crossmember led to new top-hat supports, led to new floor, led to…
I see you haven’t got the floor panel out yet, be prepared for it taking longer than expected - there are loads of fixings holding it down, all requiring drilling-out or grinding - LR used a fookin hard steel for these!
If you haven’t got any already, buy loads of rivets - I found the best value (and quality) to be from YRM, I bought both the standard rivets and countersunk rivets. A decent rivet gun is also a must. Cobalt drill bits are a must.
Happy to try and answer any questions as you go along!
