Ter

Ter

New Member
Hi guys, Im new to your forum and sorry to dive in like this but im starting to lose it :)

I bought this TD4 knowing she had a few problems but by god its testing me.

It’s a 53 plate 112K miles

1st, Grumbling rear wheel bearing,

2nd, Poor starting when warm.

3rd, Losing power up hill.

4th The 3 amigos on.

5th The brake warning light comes on, the one in the rev counter at about 10 mph


So, I have sorted the rear wheel bearing,

Poor starting, I have done the spill back test and found 2 offending injectors which I have changed,
I have changed the rear fuel filter in the back arch, when letting the filter fill up the pumps had good flow and pressure.
It starts first knock in the mornings but takes a short while when warm, I have found out how to get the glow plugs working manually and if it put them on when the engine is warm it starts much better, could it be cam sensor ?

Loss of power, now this has just happened, it started not long after the injectors were changed, before you could really hear the turbo spooling up, now you can hardly hear it and when you hit a hill, guessing demanding full boost it backs off for about 15 seconds then starts to pull again. I have changed the MAF (New £35 off ebay :doh:), all the small vacuum pipes going to the turbo, the small breather filter, the EGR valve also has been removed and the air pipe blanked off. I have had all the intercooler pipes off and inspected them.
Everything seems tight as it should be apart from the turbo air intake that comes down from the MAF, the pipe can be pulled off the turbo fairly easily but because it’s negative pressure I was thinking it would get pulled tight on the turbo when running.
The car has had a full service, oils, filters (inc the oil breather filter)
Any Ideas??

The 3 Amigos, I hear the last owner changed the front wheel bearing and could have put it in the wrong way, I’m thinking this is why the warning light comes on around 10 mph. So I’m not to worried about this for now, I have new discs to fit to it so ill do the bearing when I change the discs.

As you can see I was thinking quick fixes then away but it’s not turning out that way, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 
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Are you sure the MAF from eBay was genuine apparentley there are a lot of copys being sold.

Whats the plug like on the end of the fuel line high pressure sensor they can green up causing problems.
 
zoolander said:
Are you sure the MAF from eBay was genuine apparentley there are a lot of copys being sold.

Whats the plug like on the end of the fuel line high pressure sensor they can green up causing problems.
Click to expand...

The MAF is a aftermarket one, but the feedback from others is good also it was 12 months warranty so i thought for £35 it was worth a punt.
Even if you unplug the MAF the problems are still there.

The sensor on the end of the fuel rail is new, changed by the previous owner.

Cheers
 
3rd, Losing power up hill.

Its the Turbo Actuator, I had the same problem... drove me mad on hills!
There is also a little filter that gets blocked and then causes the actuator to die, so replace when you do a service (only about £2)

simple job to do, the actuator is at the bottom by the driver side wheel arch, it has 3 pipes;
* Black braided pipe goes to the vacuum box on the oposite side of engine and is routed over the injectors (about 1.5m long)

* Black with blue stripe goes to the turbo (about 6" long)

* Black pipe goes to the filter, goes up and then loops down and clips onto the back of the airbox (near the MAF)

Just unplug all 3 pipes then undo both bolts holding it to the bracket.

Need any pics just let me know :)
 
James. said:
3rd, Losing power up hill.

Its the Turbo Actuator, I had the same problem... drove me mad on hills!
There is also a little filter that gets blocked and then causes the actuator to die, so replace when you do a service (only about £2)

simple job to do, the actuator is at the bottom by the driver side wheel arch, it has 3 pipes;
* Black braided pipe goes to the vacuum box on the oposite side of engine and is routed over the injectors (about 1.5m long)

* Black with blue stripe goes to the turbo (about 6" long)

* Black pipe goes to the filter, goes up and then loops down and clips onto the back of the airbox (near the MAF)

Just unplug all 3 pipes then undo both bolts holding it to the bracket.

Need any pics just let me know :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I have changed all the piped going to from the actuator also the breather filter,
Ill have to have a look around for a new actuator, I have just ordered a new cam sensor so hopefully going the right direction.
 
Reading various posts, it sounds like it could be seized turbo veins, do you have to remove the turbo to check this out or can you find some lever or something to try and move these ? are the veins on the intake side of the turbo or exhaust side, im guessing the intake side.
 
The veins in the turbo actuator get seized and I'll put money on it being that and not anything to do with the turbo, and you cant test them you just need to buy a new one, think they are about £50-60 from main stealer, just looked on ebay and there is only one (280604567715) £45 posted and its used :doh:
 
Cheers James, I thought the adjustable veins were apart of the turbine and the adjusted on demand for boost, Ill check that ebay item but knowing my luck it will be as bad as mine,, lol
 
Just found my old one and the part number is STC4198 its titled on the internet as the EGR Actuator but this was a LandRover screwup and the MicroCat had the EGR and Turbo one arround the wrong way (EGR one only has 2 pipes) in the latest microcat it is now correct and the part number is right for when you goto LR.
TBH i would stay clear of the used ebay one for the small amount of money you will save.

photomme.jpg

from the top down you got the vac hosr (long one), turbo (black and blue short one), Filter



EDIT:
orig mine was diagnosed as MAF and that was at a independent LR garage.
when the Turbo Actuator stops working your turbo is running full wack all the time and when your try doing say national up a hill/slope (where the turbo normally kicks in to help you out) it cuts everything off to stop things going boom, thats why when it happens you can feel the lack of power and then normaly followed by... foot getting planeted to the floor and saying "oh **** not again, stupid ****ing thing" as you see all the other cars going past while your slowing to crawl up the slope lol
 
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Right, I have just had the actuator off and in bits, I have cut the stainless band off at one end and removed the top, All seems as it should, its spotless inside, I put it all back together fit the stainless band and wiped a jubilee clip around the band, the actuator seems to work with 12v accross it but when you suck on the vacuum side of it and give it 12v, you feel it operate but the air does not change with either sucking or blowing, im not sure it it should stop the air flow or make the air flow with the volts.

I grabbed the turbo/waste gate actuter with a hook, it seemed very tight and almost stuck at first, I put it all back together and guess what, disaster strikes, its just the same so maybe i do need a new vacuum actuator.
 
the wheel bearing will go any way round so clear that it could be the brake pedal switch read threads on here hope this helps
 
teddywood1 said:
the wheel bearing will go any way round so clear that it could be the brake pedal switch read threads on here hope this helps
Click to expand...

Hi there, I thought the bearings had a magnetic side that works with the ABS ? I know the rear does.
 
Is it possible to run the landy without the Turbo Actuator would it run full boost or no boost ?,
Im not sure if the Actuator is suppose to give the turbo increase vacuum to great boost or increase vacuum to open the waste gate to lower boost.

Does the EGR Actuator work the same way and they interchangeable just to prove the fault.

"If" the veins are seized in the turbo, is it possible to free them off in sitchu or does the turbo have to come off?

Could my problem be my high pressure pump?

Cheers in advance.
 
You can run without the turbo actuator but you will have no boost.
No idea about the EGR actuator but it only has 2 pipes so I guess you wouldn't be able to do it and might be too much pressure for it.

To rule out the HP fuel pump, does the lack of power happen all the time or just on slopes?


If you want I can send you my bust actuator To install and if the problem gets worse you know yours was working lol.
 
James. said:
You can run without the turbo actuator but you will have no boost.
No idea about the EGR actuator but it only has 2 pipes so I guess you wouldn't be able to do it and might be too much pressure for it.

To rule out the HP fuel pump, does the lack of power happen all the time or just on slopes?


If you want I can send you my bust actuator To install and if the problem gets worse you know yours was working lol.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the kind offer :),, I have found a new one for £45 so ill order one of them, as for the power, yeah it just seems to he up hill on full throttle but if you just give it enough throttle to maintain the the speed it dosent seem as bad, again im gessing its the demand on the turbo.

Like I say its a bit wierd as its flat until just 2200 revs then it pulls well but you still cant hear the turbo, maybe thats just the engine getting on cam ? before you could hear ( quite loud) it kicking in around 1500rpm, If I unplug the MAF there is no change.

Hopefully tomorrow my cam sensor will be here and the warm starting issues will be solved.
I have noticed on the colder mornings the glow plug light comes on for a few seconds and it starts straight away, Is there anyway you can frigg the temp sensor so it thinks its cold all the time and puts on the glow plugs or would that screw up the ecu and maybe run rich ect ?
 
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I dont know if it has been done but can you fit the Rover 75 fixed vein turbo, I know the waste gate would have to be sorted ?
 
Well, Just read this, im sure you already have seen this but its helped me.

http://tuning-diesels.com/Synergy/FAULT DIAGNOSIS.pdf

I got underneth her ticking over and bridged the turbo accutator and it all VNT mechanism moved as it should, so i left out the acctuator and piped the vacuume pipe straight on to the turbo, went around the block and the turbo was whistling from 1000 revs and pulling like hell.

so I now think the turbo and vacuume actuator is fine, I have removed the inlet manigold again and the MAP sensor, I cant beleive how much crap is in there, After removing the MAP sensor I pushed in a screwdriver and it was solid with crap, so Im hopeing when cleaned out it will solve my power problem.

Firstly i filled it with Mr muscle oven cleaner, it shifted a little, so now rightly or wrongly I have a mild mixture of brick acid and hot water and it seems to be desolving it, Im just keeping an eye on it for collapsing :)
 
Well, its got to be said, I have been a very active member of the civinfo forum for over 3 years, fitting and owning the first Stage 3 Supercharged FN2 Civic type R in the uk + very extencive tuning.

When someone new comes on to our forum with a problem there's dozens of people willing to offer help.

Thanks to the guys who did offer help, but overall bit of a disapointing responce !

Cheers !
 
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