I shelled out $240 for RSW All Comms III. Plugget it in and got following codes that are shown below as screenshots.

Question I have - where can I get description of RR error codes, as well as what causes them?

Here is the list

1. BCU (Body Contol Unit) - the computer that is under passenger seat:



Now, I am going to remove the BCU and send it for repair. This repair supposed to fix all these codes that also cause other problemes, like unable to unlock rear doors and/or tailgate, stiff steering, etc.

2. Engine Control Module:

I was told that these error are caused by failed mass air flow sensor - engine is getting more fuel that it is needed and the result is also poor fuel economy. In addition to mass air flow senser I am also planning to replace power steeing and all fuids - trasfer case, transmission, front and read diff, coolant, engine oil, break fluid.

3. Instrument pack


I know nothing about these errors. What causes these?

5. Steering Interlock Module. Again, I don't know what these errors are about and what are fixes:


6. Transfer Box Module - same, looking for info about these codes



7. Parking Assist Module, not important

Thanks.

Cant see any of your attachments mate.

J

marjon said:

Cant see any of your attachments mate.

J

Click to expand...

Let me try to fix it...

marjon said:

Cant see any of your attachments mate.

J

Click to expand...

Should be working now.

Might be being blind but i can't see if they are current or historic?

I'd go straight for the plugs as there isn't a fault for the airflow meter in there
Also dirty injectors, bad fuel, wrong plugs or plug gap

Also check for corrosion inside the coil packs where they connect to the plugs themselves..

To answer the first question, the descriptions are on the screen in the list !!

Yes the descriptions are vague & often conflicting, but that's common across all diagnostics. For example first screenshot shows windows relay "short to battery" & "short to ground" ?? Both cannot be true, but the particular ECU detects the relay not working so give two possible reasons. It's up the the user to do further check to figure out what needs replacing.



This is why many garages (& dealers) simply do part swapping to find faults. They don't understand things, so in this case they swap the relay. Later on they might find a wiring fault, but never try the original part again Customer ends up paying for every part that's tried until the actual fault is found (expensive).

Re - 6. Transfer Box Module

The ‘noise on actuator signal’ is a classic fault code caused by a dodgy shift motor potentiometer.





On the other hand, low battery voltage (also identified) plays havoc with the ECUs

Phil

invisible999 said:

I shelled out $240 for RSW All Comms III. Plugget it in and got following codes that are shown below as screenshots.

Question I have - where can I get description of RR error codes, as well as what causes them?

Here is the list

1. BCU (Body Contol Unit) - the computer that is under passenger seat:
View attachment 315892
View attachment 315893

Now, I am going to remove the BCU and send it for repair. This repair supposed to fix all these codes that also cause other problemes, like unable to unlock rear doors and/or tailgate, stiff steering, etc.

2. Engine Control Module:
View attachment 315894
I was told that these error are caused by failed mass air flow sensor - engine is getting more fuel that it is needed and the result is also poor fuel economy. In addition to mass air flow senser I am also planning to replace power steeing and all fuids - trasfer case, transmission, front and read diff, coolant, engine oil, break fluid.

3. Instrument pack
View attachment 315895

I know nothing about these errors. What causes these?

5. Steering Interlock Module. Again, I don't know what these errors are about and what are fixes:
View attachment 315896

6. Transfer Box Module - same, looking for info about these codes
View attachment 315897


7. Parking Assist Module, not important
View attachment 315898
Thanks.

Click to expand...

That RSW stuff looks pretty comprehensive now.

Hello everyone and thanks for taking time to reply. Let me post and update here first and then ask couple of questions on your comments;

I did clear all item fault codes - these that communicate (details below). Most codes got cleared, however some remained.

Following codes remained:

M62 Petrol Engine Module Communications. Note - the same codes remain
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
Returned ECU ID : B8 : F7 : 12 : 8 : E0 : 3 : 5A : DE : 5A : EE : 0 : 0 : 86 :
Misfire detected cylinder 8.
Misfire detected cylinder 6.
Multiple misfire fault.
CAN bus missing node - Instrument Pack.

Body Control Module Communications. Note - while most codes cleared, these two remined
Retrieving ECU ID Information
Returned ECU ID : 0 : 10 : A0 : DA : E0 : 3 : 9A : 25 : 10 : 85 : 13 : 30 : 4 : 6 : 32 : B0 :
ECU Part Number : 010A0DA
ECU Hardware Number : E.0
ECU Code Index : 03
ECU Diag Index : 9A
ECU Bus Index : 25
Week of Manufacture : 10
Year of Manufacture : 85
Software Version : 3.0
Servo-valve or connections open circuit
Servo-valve or connections short circuit

Right Headlight Module Communications. Note: worked only on 3rd-4th try to open:
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
Returned ECU ID : 98 : 10 : A0 : 88 : 38 : 14 : 63 : 40 : 0 : 1 : 10 : 43 : 15 : 8 : 11 : F1 :
Ignition voltage < 7.5 volts.
D2S/R-Light is off.


The following items could not be opened for diagnostics - the all got the same ERROR : Connection FAILED message

Digital Signal Processor Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Headlight Leveling Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Left Headlight Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Lighting Control Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU Fault Information
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Satellite Navigation Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Rain Sensor Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.

Tire Pressure Module Communications.
Retrieving ECU ID Information.
ERROR : Connection FAILED...
ERROR : Comms Offline, Please Try Again.


The following unites did not get error messages after clearing all fault codes:
5HP24 Transmission Module Communications.
Transfer Box Module Communications.
Engine Immobilizer Module Communications.
Steering Angle Sensor Module Communications.
Steering Column Interlock Module Communications.
Air Bag Restraint Module Communications.
Seat Control Module Communications.
Parking Assist Module Communications.


My questions after clearing these codes:
1. How much time should I wait (or drive) to re-check if codes came back?
2. What needs to be done to open communication/fix it with items that give ERROR message?

Mark Piercy said:

I'd go straight for the plugs as there isn't a fault for the airflow meter in there
Also dirty injectors, bad fuel, wrong plugs or plug gap

Click to expand...

Mark Piercy said:

Also check for corrosion inside the coil packs where they connect to the plugs themselves..

Click to expand...

Is this somehow related to misfiring?

pwood999 said:

To answer the first question, the descriptions are on the screen in the list !!

Yes the descriptions are vague & often conflicting, but that's common across all diagnostics. For example first screenshot shows windows relay "short to battery" & "short to ground" ?? Both cannot be true, but the particular ECU detects the relay not working so give two possible reasons.

Click to expand...

So, as you correctly pointed out that two codes can't be the same time (but they are...) and it is relay problem, do you think it is due to relays failing out on BCU and the fix is described in this post?
I have exactly the same problem with BCU - rear doors or tailgate won't get locked/unlocked, stiff steering, etc.

Bemble said:

Re - 6. Transfer Box Module

The ‘noise on actuator signal’ is a classic fault code caused by a dodgy shift motor potentiometer.
On the other hand, low battery voltage (also identified) plays havoc with the ECUs

Phil

Click to expand...

Phil, I don't see these codes after clearing them - I cleared yesterday, drove about 50 miles, checked today, not there.
How much time should I give to re-check if they are back?
Battery voltage can't be low - battery was on maintainer, it is 2 y/o and recent check said that it is in good condition.

The plugs and the coil packs could well be related to the misfiring. It may not be the problem but they need to be ruled out of the equation.
A lot of comms issues can be a duff batteries capacity to provide power. The power can be robbed when the starter is activated and robs ecu's of power causing voltage and comms issues.

The battery being 2 years old means nothing, what matters is it's capacity and voltage.
What voltage do you have at the battery terminals after it has stood overnight?

+1, if the battery has gone flat a few times it's storage capacity goes down and it can become damaged even if it shows 12.6v

Datatek said:

The battery being 2 years old means nothing, what matters is it's capacity and voltage.
What voltage do you have at the battery terminals after it has stood overnight?

Click to expand...

12.5V. Will leave for 2 days and re-test again. I had no problem starting car after it was in parking lot for 12 days.

Mark Piercy said:

The power can be robbed when the starter is activated and robs ecu's of power causing voltage and comms issues.

Click to expand...

So the right procedure would be what - check codes after 5 min idling?

Mark Piercy said:

+1, if the battery has gone flat a few times it's storage capacity goes down and it can become damaged even if it shows 12.6v

Click to expand...

When I took battery for test about 6 month ago I was told it was fine by three different shops. I will ask repair shop check again, but would appriciate knowledge how to check/ensure that battery is good and rule out problems caused by it. As mentioned, after left vehicle for 12 days, I had no problem to start. Also had no problem to start like >1.5 years.

Battery is less than three years old and still under waranty I guess.

invisible999 said:

12.5V. Will leave for 2 days and re-test again. I had no problem starting car after it was in parking lot for 12 days.

Click to expand...

The problem is that if the battery is weak, it will still crank the engine and maybe start but it will pull the voltage down to a level that causes problems with some ECU's. 12.5 volts is low around 50% charged.

I've had Halfords tell me a brand new battery was good when it would only hold 12.4v fully charged off the car

Mark Piercy said:

+1, if the battery has gone flat a few times it's storage capacity goes down and it can become damaged even if it shows 12.6v

Click to expand...

Datatek said:

The problem is that if the battery is weak, it will still crank the engine and maybe start but it will pull the voltage down to a level that causes problems with some ECU's. 12.5 volts is low around 50% charged.

Click to expand...

kermit_rr said:

I've had Halfords tell me a brand new battery was good when it would only hold 12.4v fully charged off the car

Click to expand...

Interesting twist gentlemen - yesterday went to Walmart to check the battery (battery is less than 2 y/o). Check showed that it was doing 600 CCA from 900. It was replaced under warranty (3 years) with identical one and I paid out of pocket $6.

Now I have brand new battery (almost - manufacturing date shows 02/2024) with new 3 years warranty. Question is - if I have to run to Walmart every 2 months to check this battery performance.

I did put it on maintainer (supplies 750ma/12v) last night once came back and will check after 12h if it is still charging or not.

P.S. I will re-check all codes today to see if new battery caused disappearance of some.

invisible999 said:

Interesting twist gentlemen - yesterday went to Walmart to check the battery (battery is less than 2 y/o). Check showed that it was doing 600 CCA from 900. It was replaced under warranty (3 years) with identical one and I paid out of pocket $6.

Now I have brand new battery (almost - manufacturing date shows 02/2024) with new 3 years warranty. Question is - if I have to run to Walmart every 2 months to check this battery performance.

I did put it on maintainer (supplies 750ma/12v) last night once came back and will check after 12h if it is still charging or not.

P.S. I will re-check all codes today to see if new battery caused disappearance of some.

Click to expand...

You need to fully charge the new battery before use or it will fail like the last one. Usually about 24 hours with a 4 amp smart charger.