jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
theres 2 lengths of stub axle ,later been shorter early been long which also has tab washer slot
nobber
Well-Known Member
That means the hub would still sit tight to the swivel housing but the drive member would either cover or leave too much stub axle showing, so you cant really get it wrong and still make it work? So that means the existing hub is right? Thats how Im reading it, and not being able to get drag means the race must be turning?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
yes but no drag would indicate bearings arent been compressed enough,have you got the spacer washer between bearing and nut,do the bearings spin easily on the stub
nobber
Well-Known Member
Ok, so stripped it, sanded clean the stub axle, bearings move freely but tight , especially tight at the beginning of the stub, reassembled and still no drag!
I looks like, the tab spacer between nut and bearing is reaching the end of the recess in the stub axle, I could see damage on the end of the recess as it slopes upward. This means that the nut cannot tighten all the way to lock the bearings. So either something is missing or the stub and/or hub has badly worn, we already know the hub is worn but thats a hell of a lot of wear to cause that. Surely that key washer (12) shouldn't go back far enough to foul at the end of the recess in the stub axle?
I looks like, the tab spacer between nut and bearing is reaching the end of the recess in the stub axle, I could see damage on the end of the recess as it slopes upward. This means that the nut cannot tighten all the way to lock the bearings. So either something is missing or the stub and/or hub has badly worn, we already know the hub is worn but thats a hell of a lot of wear to cause that. Surely that key washer (12) shouldn't go back far enough to foul at the end of the recess in the stub axle?
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nobber
Well-Known Member
In a last desperate attempt to get this sorted, I put on a second key washer, so thats two key washers between nut and bearing, still wont drag the bearing, I used just the nut to bearing to make sure it went home Ok and it tightened right up to the bearing, so, why wont these bearings compress?
The races went in Ok, as stated the inner race didn't take much and can be rotated by hand so that has to be the problem?
The races went in Ok, as stated the inner race didn't take much and can be rotated by hand so that has to be the problem?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
the rear race would be pushed against the raised seal boss
nobber
Well-Known Member
The inner race? The outer race gets drifted into the hub, its the race drifted into the hub that can be rotated by hand.
I suspect the inner race is against the boss, the hub goes on with a good solid feel as its thrust onto the stub axle.
Im totally at a loss with this, Im thinking just leave as is and run it, there is no play in the bearings with the wheel on.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
outer races spin freely in the hub ,how lose are they?
nobber
Well-Known Member
Ive never had one spin freely James, I have always had to drift them in and out with a hammer and drift.
The one on the inner side of the hub didn't take much at all and will rotate but without play, the race on the outside end of the hub had to be drifted in.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
do these
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
spin free but i see you already said
nobber
Well-Known Member
Inner one will, but ive never had one before that did that.
One thing though, 14 years ago I had a bearing seize in this hub, it was the outer bearing, I had to cut it out! But I am sure ive replaced the bearing again during the 14 years and I have always set them by inducing drag then letting off slightly, The old bearings were quite loose and have been for quite some time, im thinking the hub and/or stub are just worn out, buts its a really odd one because the bearings still should compress.
One thing though, 14 years ago I had a bearing seize in this hub, it was the outer bearing, I had to cut it out! But I am sure ive replaced the bearing again during the 14 years and I have always set them by inducing drag then letting off slightly, The old bearings were quite loose and have been for quite some time, im thinking the hub and/or stub are just worn out, buts its a really odd one because the bearings still should compress.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if one race is a tight fit hub shouldnt rotate freely over the outer races
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
to set the wheel bearing all you need to do is just remove any free play, whn tightening the outer nut it gives a little extra nip
nobber
Well-Known Member
Thats what I do by backing off, I dont know James, Ive always been able to induce drag on the bearing, until now. There is no play when its all tightened up so I might just run it and check it after a few miles. I have until Monday to make sure its safe and usable so a good drive in it tomorrow morning will tell me if its working or not.
