Yer can buy a cheap 3/4 inch socket se over ere:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-Piece-...767840?hash=item2ca3267620:g:HDkAAOSwo0JWHizX

I got one some years ago and it's still ok. 6 side sockets anorl. I also bought a torque multiplier some years ago when they were much cheaper than they are now. think I paid something like £60:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK...397706?hash=item1c59aa004a:g:1ZgAAOSwN81WDTjL

Input torque is multiplied by 3.3 on the output. I have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch socket sets, longer bars and additional sockets for hex, imperial, allan, torx etc but for the tighter nuts I don't use 1/2 inch as the cheaper tools we tend to buy won't last. I could easily spend over £500 replacing what I have now, in professional form. For a home diy'er it's simply not worth it. To get round this I have 2x 1/2 inch long socket bars in case I snap the end oft the one of them. Second is a backup until I replace the broken one.
 
Dunit! Moved the jack nearer the socket to give the iron bar less of a chance to bend, pumped jack and whacked socket (even harder) - and shifted first go. Was also a lot warmer today (23 degrees instead of 8) which I think helped things.

I must admit though, I was bricking it while pumping the jack and whacking the socket in case the bar fractured and lumps of iron under extreme stress went flying through my skull. Also took a few nicks out of the alloys with the hammer bouncing off the socket!

But job done, onwards to draining and removing IRD & Box. :)
 
My solution was to use a 3/4 inch socket, 3/4 breaker bar, and 6 feet of 1 inch steel pipe. I used the pipe as a sleeve on the breaker bar, and I literally just pushed down on it. At 6 feet away from the point of pressure, it did not take a lot of force.
 
)hi did mine last week 3/4driv socket and 3FOOT SCAF POLE PEACE OF CAKE
Hello, cant get the driveshaft nut to undo on my 99 Freelander, drivers side front nut. it won't budge, have brok half'inch breaker bar this morning, snaped the end clean off, nut hasn't moved. i'm turning it anti-clockwise, its tight as, hasn't moved at all, not even a 100000000000000 of a turn, its like its welded on..
 
i took the center out and used a center punch like old irish and left the wheel on the ground i used a 3/4 inch bar and a half inch adapter to the socket i had which was flat sided not a mulity sided one as these tend to slip then had the wife on the foot brake and bingo but they are 295lbs torque and you "should" have a new nut to put back on
192ft/lbs
 
Why reply to a 7 year old thread? And then with incorrect information.:confused:

The Freelander 1 hub nut is torqued to 400Nm, which is 295ftlb.;)
I think yer man unawares stepped out of the Range Rover forum into one for decent motors ;)
 
Some might say it's better to have the relevant info in one thread, especially when the title describes the problem.

Too many threads have useless titles across all forums on the interweb..
 
Too many threads have useless titles across all forums on the interweb.

Oh yes, it ****es me off big time, having to rear countless threads that start "Freelander 2" or "Freelander HSE" or "Help" and so on.
All stupid IMHO. :mad:
 

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