Pos counting parts from the right hand side the third part in. I only ask as in your fourth parts breakdown picture in your first post it looks a bit worn on the tip.
I have no other reason to ask other than I'm curious. Was the needle in good shape?
When you going to take a TD5 injector apart for me?
 
Shifty1962 said:
Pos counting parts from the right hand side the third part in. I only ask as in your fourth parts breakdown picture in your first post it looks a bit worn on the tip.
I have no other reason to ask other than I'm curious. Was the needle in good shape?
When you going to take a TD5 injector apart for me?
Click to expand...

That is indeed the nozzle needle (left) and it makes the complete nozzle assembly along with the nozzle body (right). When you buy a new nozzle, you get both parts pre-assembled and you simply leave them be and fit them straight into place. The photo below simply shows the wear on the tip of the old needle which was causing low 'pop' pressures and an irratic spray pattern:

nozzlewear.jpg


As for your TD5 injectors, well.. got one you'd like to send me?

-Pos
 
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OK makes sense now. I thought you had just changed the nozzle only.
I think I have an old TD5 injector that could be donated for the cause.
I'll have a rummage in my shed and sort it out over the weekend.
 
Apologies for resurrecting an old thread.
After finding a huge price for new and or refurbished injectors, this thread was forwarded on to me.
I have just decided to take my 200tdi injectors apart this evening, after reading this thread.
I'll be taking a real good look at them tomorrow and clean them up, then decide on whether they need new nozzles.
Thak you for an informative write-up. It has given me the confidence to strip them down and take a look myself.
Hoping to save a bob or two. ;)
 
Thread revival time.. looking to do injectors very soon. Question is.. can I just unscrew pipe work on top or is it all high pressure stuff
Thanks in advance
 
Chambo90 said:
Thread revival time.. looking to do injectors very soon. Question is.. can I just unscrew pipe work on top or is it all high pressure stuff
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Yes just crack them off slightly and any excess pressure will drain off immediately.
Dont bend pipes, loosen bottom unions then top ones, and wiggle them to one side, it is easier with pipes totally removed.
 
lynall said:
Yes just crack them off slightly and any excess pressure will drain off immediately.
Dont bend pipes, loosen bottom unions then top ones, and wiggle them to one side, it is easier with pipes totally removed.
Click to expand...

by bottoms ?? You mean ones on the pump itself ??. Sorry not had head under bonnet for a while.. can’t picture it ?
 
Also
Is it worth replacing the whole injector, or will a nozzle change and clean up work ok?
I’ve not done much mileage in the 4yrs I’ve owned but there’s 160k on clock... plus Speedo wasn’t working when I got it so who knows true miles.
And last of all.. I think.. do I need an ultrasonic bath or would brake cleaner do the job.. I’ve watched a few online videos and it seems fairly straightforward as long as I don’t mess up the order of things
Thanks again
 
I’m so very tempted to try this. The reduction in power on hills in my 300TDI is ridiculous. I’ve worked my way around most other things except advancing the timing which I plan to do after lockdown. That said, I’m sure I have an issue with my injectors as well as them leaking. Would be interesting to hear if anyone else has done this.
 
Chambo90 said:
Also
Is it worth replacing the whole injector, or will a nozzle change and clean up work ok?
I’ve not done much mileage in the 4yrs I’ve owned but there’s 160k on clock... plus Speedo wasn’t working when I got it so who knows true miles.
And last of all.. I think.. do I need an ultrasonic bath or would brake cleaner do the job.. I’ve watched a few online videos and it seems fairly straightforward as long as I don’t mess up the order of things
Thanks again
Click to expand...

If you have no means to bench test them I would get a diesel shop to do the refurb, after all how would you know they are working correctly? and if not working correctly it could lead to engine damage.
In my mind if it starts instantly, smokes a little when cold which clears when engine is hot and has enough power I would leave alone.
 
Landyfox said:
I’m so very tempted to try this. The reduction in power on hills in my 300TDI is ridiculous. I’ve worked my way around most other things except advancing the timing which I plan to do after lockdown. That said, I’m sure I have an issue with my injectors as well as them leaking. Would be interesting to hear if anyone else has done this.
Click to expand...

If the timing is correct using the timing pins, advancing timing wont really hlep with the power loss you are experiencing.
 
lynall said:
If you have no means to bench test them I would get a diesel shop to do the refurb, after all how would you know they are working correctly? and if not working correctly it could lead to engine damage.
In my mind if it starts instantly, smokes a little when cold which clears when engine is hot and has enough power I would leave alone.
Click to expand...
Yep
I think I’m in agreement with you.. I’ll take them out and run them down.
Does £12.50 per injector sound about right to test ??
Thanks
 
I’m happy to have them tested..... I know for certain that they are leaking and need new copper washers. I would also very much suspect they’re worn out now as they have not been replaced since 1994. As per my thread, I’ve checked everything from HG, fuel pump, turbo, filter and all is well. However I have no smoke and it starts on the button, equally the engine ideals as it should. I think I’m going to retest the compression of each cylinder. What kind of value range should I be looking for?
 
Landyfox said:
I’m happy to have them tested..... I know for certain that they are leaking and need new copper washers. I would also very much suspect they’re worn out now as they have not been replaced since 1994. As per my thread, I’ve checked everything from HG, fuel pump, turbo, filter and all is well. However I have no smoke and it starts on the button, equally the engine ideals as it should. I think I’m going to retest the compression of each cylinder. What kind of value range should I be looking for?
Click to expand...

Get injs tested refit with new coppper washers, then check diaphragm is free to move as is the fuel pin, add a few drops of oil, reassemble, turn diaghpram 90 degrees clockwise, then test drive, if better, turn max fuel screw in 90 dgerees, test again, job done, but messing with fuel pump is pointless until you know the rest of the system is okay first.
 
neilly said:
How do you know it has not been messed with, changed to a "boost" pin , or already at its max governor pin position?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Remove the 4 screws and lift off the lid, sometimes you have to rotate it a couple fot iems to push the fuel pin back into its hole, then lift the boost pin out and look at it, it is quite obvious where the fuel pin has been rubbing as it will be the largest wear mark on the tapered fuel pin.
The heaviest wear mark will be aimed at the front of the engine ie cambelt en, very rare to find one that has not been messed with.
The proper standard boost pin is a concentric taper, the aftermarket ones are just a one sided affair, no adjustability at all, just full on fuel delivery at all rpms/load which will equal smoke and lots of it.
 
Pics from old pump in garage,
Still has factory seal on max fuel screw = good sign pump is std,
Screen Shot 2021-01-10 at 17.02.33.png


But top of diagphragm has been scratch marked to casing so someone has been in here before,
Screen Shot 2021-01-10 at 17.02.43.png


Look at the taper , see the short but heavy score make in the middle? ignore the two longer marks as they are shadows caused by lights in garage, that is its normal running position, there were some much lighter score mkars, so light I could not get them to show on piccy, so again it has been tweaked at some time in its life, but not madly as max screw seal still there.

Screen Shot 2021-01-10 at 17.03.03.png
 
The injectors come apart easily clamp in vice and spanner on the end , and as long as you get the bits in right order shouldn’t do any harm, you can see various holes and pins in the parts which ensure it goes back together same way
Used brake cleaner initially then bought a cheapie ultrasonic, you can inspect for carbon build up , pitting and correct spray pattern by spraying wd40 or brake cleaner through nozzle , the ultra sonic did a better job of cleaning the bits
You can also buy new nozzles if duff but I have read it could be hit and miss on quality
31B104B1-EBE5-44FB-90C8-D7AF44F98EBC.png
 
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