andyfreelandy said:
For my next one I am going to use these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-Hosetail-Connections-8mm-Pipe-Hose-Tails/132153973736?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=40656&meid=c092afd86c704609a489c3768cd5e3cc&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=132121704654

and a 12.5mm drill then use M14 sump plugs. This means my bench drill will accept the 12.5mm and I won't need to use a large (over large) reduced shank drill which was too long and provided me with problems getting the VCU in under it !!!
Use brake and clutch cleaner hydrocarbon solvent - it eats the fluid for breakfast.

Maybe a business opportunity here - will be testing the one I have done every month and recording the figures whilst it 'beds in'.

Good luck !
Click to expand...
Am I right in thinking you used M14 x 1.5? I was initially looking for M14 x 1.25 but can't find any hose connections that are 1.25, only 1.5. I don't suppose it matters that much but I prefer to go with the finer thread if possible.

Edit
I just found these which might do the job. Just not sure what size of hose I'd need to go over the threads on the other end.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motamec-A...694870?hash=item35cd10c496:g:F9UAAOSw-7RVDXrF
 
Last edited:
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 × 1/16 = 1/2). Says Google / Wiki

So -4 AN should be 1/4 inch od !?!?!
 
andyfreelandy said:
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 × 1/16 = 1/2). Says Google / Wiki

So -4 AN should be 1/4 inch od !?!?!
Click to expand...
Sweet! That's great thanks, I was guessing slightly bigger from the pics but I'll order two and see what comes, they're not much more than the hosetails you linked to.
andyfreelandy said:
Tapping drill size.............
M14 x 1.25 12.8mm
M14 x 1.5 12.7mm
Click to expand...
Looks like I need to order a new drill and tap then. ;)

Having said all that, you already did it once before with M14 x 1.5. Do you think it is worth going for 1.25. I know you get more threads per mm and in theory that's a good thing but in reality will it matter?
 
1.5 worked fine, included a copper washer and thickness of about 10mm was more than enough for a robust thread. Take yr pick ! Harder to cross thread a coarser thread.
 
I bought one of these for my next VCU job - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272285888537
12mm which drills a 12.5mm hole ! Benefit is that you can start the hole with the pilot drill, then remove it - prevents damaging the VCU first ring on drill break through. Not saying it is the right size as haven't tried it yet - but can always finish with a blunt end reamer.
 
rob_bell said:
Your eBay-fu powers are strong! :cool::D
Click to expand...
Nothing to be proud of. :oops:
andyfreelandy said:
I bought one of these for my next VCU job - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272285888537
12mm which drills a 12.5mm hole ! Benefit is that you can start the hole with the pilot drill, then remove it - prevents damaging the VCU first ring on drill break through. Not saying it is the right size as haven't tried it yet - but can always finish with a blunt end reamer.
Click to expand...
The first disk at both ends is tied to the outside of the VCU so a wee cut into it by the drill won't do any harm, it won't rub against anything. It would only be a problem if you drilled right through it.
 
Hi all,

just read this thread out of interest and have a few Qs

1) how do you do a OWUT
2) and what are you timing
3) what is the time telling you ot appears to be related to the stiffness of the VCU
4) wld I be right to assume it could be used to assess condition of vcu

I had a new one 45k ago and found somewhere LR recommend change at 75k, only do abt 5k max a year so remaining 25k shd be fine for me. Mine went on the M/way at about 70mph, Got the IRD repaired at a factory in Aston, drove up and they did it whilst I waited, bro know them so cost me £300, got a replacement OEM VCU & GKN bearing for £375, labour £150 so not too bad.
 
terrier989 said:
Hi all,

just read this thread out of interest and have a few Qs

1) how do you do a OWUT
2) and what are you timing
3) what is the time telling you ot appears to be related to the stiffness of the VCU
4) wld I be right to assume it could be used to assess condition of vcu

I had a new one 45k ago and found somewhere LR recommend change at 75k, only do abt 5k max a year so remaining 25k shd be fine for me. Mine went on the M/way at about 70mph, Got the IRD repaired at a factory in Aston, drove up and they did it whilst I waited, bro know them so cost me £300, got a replacement OEM VCU & GKN bearing for £375, labour £150 so not too bad.
Click to expand...
1) read the instructions
2) the movement of the lever
3) exactly
4) yes
 
terrier989 said:
Hi all,

just read this thread out of interest and have a few Qs

1) how do you do a OWUT
2) and what are you timing
3) what is the time telling you ot appears to be related to the stiffness of the VCU
4) wld I be right to assume it could be used to assess condition of vcu

I had a new one 45k ago and found somewhere LR recommend change at 75k, only do abt 5k max a year so remaining 25k shd be fine for me. Mine went on the M/way at about 70mph, Got the IRD repaired at a factory in Aston, drove up and they did it whilst I waited, bro know them so cost me £300, got a replacement OEM VCU & GKN bearing for £375, labour £150 so not too bad.
Click to expand...

There's Hippo's OWUT video.


Hippo used 8Kgs at the end of the 1.2M pole. However many of us use 5Kgs instead. With 5Kgs the time needs to be under 1 minute for the 45° to horizontal. Longer than 1 minute suggests the VCU is past its best.
 
1. Google it
2. Google it
3. Google it
4. Google it

If your VCU has only 45k then check your tyres are the same make model and pressure. If all OK then forget about it for another 5 years or so.

BTW the you said the VCU "went" on the motorway at 70mph. I think someone is telling you porkies or you misunderstood as they never break. They just stop working correctly after a while causing other bits of the drive train to break. It might be worth pulling out the receipt and double checking exactly what was replaced. It sounds like it broke your IRD but getting it fixed for £300 sounds suspiciously cheap.
 
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if you ready reply above you will see i said i had just found it, on youtube, via google ok.

re porkies no one told me I was driving and I said it damaged the IRD, btw if it stops working it is BROKEN, that doesn't mean shattered into a million pieces
 
terrier989 said:
if you ready reply above you will see i said i had just found it, on youtube, via google ok.

re porkies no one told me I was driving and I said it damaged the IRD, btw if it stops working it is BROKEN, that doesn't mean shattered into a million pieces
Click to expand...
The VCU will stiffen over time, it never fails suddenly but usually gradually over years. This means it stops working in that it stops allowing the front and rear prop shafts to turn at different speeds.
The purpose of a VCU is to behave a bit like a limited slip diff. It lets the front wheels turn at a different speed to the rears so long as the difference is small. As soon as the front wheels start to spin the VCU stiffens to send drive to the rears. Over a period of years the VCU slowly stiffens until something has to give and it is usually the IRD or the rear diff, both of which are very expensive to fix. ie usually much more than £300.
 
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