Your Turbo diesel sender is the closest you'll get for it too read correct.
(So I've been told by a land rover specialist anyway!)
 
Have a old and trusty 90na which the cross member only got months left in it. Have donor 200tdi taken from a Disco but put into a classic RR, so now has VC TFbox. Know I will need to adapt the levers etc to get these to fit.
Where on the new chassis do I need the engine mounts, since might as well have them put on prior to galvanising?
 
Your Turbo diesel sender is the closest you'll get for it too read correct.
(So I've been told by a land rover specialist anyway!)

I've done three of these using the 2.5n/a or t/d sender and gauge.
They all showed a little hotter than normal and I have been told that the 200tdi runs a little hotter than the t/d etc.
This makes sense but don't know how true it is:)
 
Na the tdi runs much cooler. About 86-87 degrees. Td doesn't have the intercooler to cool it so much hotter. I bought a sender, gauge and adapter (time was the brand). Need the adapter as tdi engine is different tpi thread.

By doing that way knew the exact temp it was running at
 
Na the tdi runs much cooler. About 86-87 degrees. Td doesn't have the intercooler to cool it so much hotter. I bought a sender, gauge and adapter (time was the brand). Need the adapter as tdi engine is different tpi thread.

By doing that way knew the exact temp it was running at

2.5 n/a ....74 deg (82 deg optional)
200tdi ..... 88 deg

Could be why the needle goes further up the gauge when 200 fitted:)
 
its an age old argument... I just live with mine, I'm happy if it goes to the red but i wouldnt allow it to go past the red...

I think ill be purchasing a digital gauge and try to find a sender that screws in somewhere for mine..
 
its an age old argument... I just live with mine, I'm happy if it goes to the red but i wouldnt allow it to go past the red...

I think ill be purchasing a digital gauge and try to find a sender that screws in somewhere for mine..

+1

I now know where mine is good, when it overheats and when stat opens. So for now I live with it but there's a hole in my dash waiting for the correct gauge and sender!
 
been through this thread......

i see richard used his flywheel housing from the 2.5td on the back of the 200tdi.

ive read else where this will lead to leaking between the block and the flywheel housing and that its better to drill and tap/remove the studs in the 200tdi fly wheel when fitting to a 2.5TD engine.....

any more for any more on that thought ?
 
been through this thread......

i see richard used his flywheel housing from the 2.5td on the back of the 200tdi.

ive read else where this will lead to leaking between the block and the flywheel housing and that its better to drill and tap/remove the studs in the 200tdi fly wheel when fitting to a 2.5TD engine.....

any more for any more on that thought ?

up to you it wont induce leaks ,200 tdi does have a ladder frame that bottom of flywheel housing is bolted to, but its not essential , all the lr engines are prone to leak between the housing and block the 200 tdi gasket can be fitted to both 200 and 2.5 to stop the main bearing cap common leak, there is bugger all flex between housing and block
 
its worth fitting a new gasket err1440 if using 2.5 fly wheel housing just cut lower part of ensuring its slightly too long
 
Well done. I wish a had just a fraction of your technical expertise.
I have a LHD Defender 110 2.5D NA and want to replace the engine with a 200 TDI. Will any 200TDI engine fit or does it have to be specifically made for a LHD?
 
defender 200tdi is best fit as you can use all std parts,though disco is not too bad ,but requires more fettling with hoses and exhaust ,plus lower bell housing to engine bolts dont align but more than enough do ,engines arent effected by lhd or rhd
 

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