There are a few threads on RR.net about it. Loads doing it on there so it can't be too hard to sort out.
I'm not too bothered about locking it TBH. Firstly it'll be moving most of the time, secondly the steering wheel will be on the wrong side most of the time so that should bamboozle any potential thief into submission.
The brake lights will not be connected, so I'm going to have to wire them up too. My bigger worry is can a Brake Buddy slow the thing down with the ignition off. Once the pressure has run out after 35 plunges of the brake pedal...
I'm not too bothered about locking it TBH. Firstly it'll be moving most of the time, secondly the steering wheel will be on the wrong side most of the time so that should bamboozle any potential thief into submission.
The brake lights will not be connected, so I'm going to have to wire them up too. My bigger worry is can a Brake Buddy slow the thing down with the ignition off. Once the pressure has run out after 35 plunges of the brake pedal...
Fergie46
Active Member
I've done three road trips in the US and they were all a fabulous experience. I'm sure you will enjoy yourself immensely.
Silly question I know but have you thought about buying a suitable trailer and then selling it afterwards when you've finished with it, Craigs List and all that?
Silly question I know but have you thought about buying a suitable trailer and then selling it afterwards when you've finished with it, Craigs List and all that?
Sorry, thought you meant trigger the lock motor itself.
Hence the comment about the spare ABS ECU in my shed to keep it topped up.
I thought Craig's List was some sort of swingers thing? And not Jazz either.
I did think about a trailer yes. Still am a bit TBH. They are not so cheap though.
I thought if I'm shipping my P38 to the US, it'd be cheaper to try and use the same kit over here as over there when I bring it back.
Agreed though, a trailer is the easiest option by far! And legal in the most countries!
I thought if I'm shipping my P38 to the US, it'd be cheaper to try and use the same kit over here as over there when I bring it back.
Agreed though, a trailer is the easiest option by far! And legal in the most countries!
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
EDITED: Tourettes V etiquette battle.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
Sorry - just noticed that Grrrrr tagged me in this... been at work (with the real job, not RR related sadly!) and haven't had time to even turn the laptop on in the last week!
Personally, I'd either do what one other member mentioned - rig up a replacement wiring loom that you plug into the rear light clusters and run them that way when towing - then you are completely clear of vehicle systems etc.
Or I would wire into the existing loom, then just use some decent rated diodes on each of the vehicle wires from the BECM to prevent back-feeding the vehicle systems when hooked up to the tow vehicle. Another owner that I know has an ex-police P38 and when he got it, there were remnants of the police wiring to the light clusters, and they included a load of diodes - so it obviously works ok...
The only issue I see with going through the tow socket that I can see is that all of the feeds to it come from the BECM - some of the lamps have dedicated wires from the BECM, whereas others have a shared output with some of the vehicle lamps - but the wiring is showing as coming from the same pin of the connector at the BECM. So feeding INTO those trailer feeds would just result in a back feed into the BECM. the tracks in the BECM are probably joined with the relevant indicator, tail light etc - but you have no way then of isolating the MOSFET output.
I would say that doing your own wiring splices in to the vehicle loom (if you didn't go the replacement cluster connection route) with diodes on the vehicle wiring would be the best way forward. Then run your new wires to a dedicated socket for the feeds in from the towing vehicle.
All of the connections/diodes could be done at the BECM end so you aren't pulling wires the whole length of the vehicle, and if you wanted to get clever, they could be run to somewhere either in the engine bay, or front bumper area with a socket there - so then you just have a jumper lead from the towing vehicle to the RR that plugs in at both ends for ease of hookup/disconnect.
Personally, I'd either do what one other member mentioned - rig up a replacement wiring loom that you plug into the rear light clusters and run them that way when towing - then you are completely clear of vehicle systems etc.
Or I would wire into the existing loom, then just use some decent rated diodes on each of the vehicle wires from the BECM to prevent back-feeding the vehicle systems when hooked up to the tow vehicle. Another owner that I know has an ex-police P38 and when he got it, there were remnants of the police wiring to the light clusters, and they included a load of diodes - so it obviously works ok...
The only issue I see with going through the tow socket that I can see is that all of the feeds to it come from the BECM - some of the lamps have dedicated wires from the BECM, whereas others have a shared output with some of the vehicle lamps - but the wiring is showing as coming from the same pin of the connector at the BECM. So feeding INTO those trailer feeds would just result in a back feed into the BECM. the tracks in the BECM are probably joined with the relevant indicator, tail light etc - but you have no way then of isolating the MOSFET output.
I would say that doing your own wiring splices in to the vehicle loom (if you didn't go the replacement cluster connection route) with diodes on the vehicle wiring would be the best way forward. Then run your new wires to a dedicated socket for the feeds in from the towing vehicle.
All of the connections/diodes could be done at the BECM end so you aren't pulling wires the whole length of the vehicle, and if you wanted to get clever, they could be run to somewhere either in the engine bay, or front bumper area with a socket there - so then you just have a jumper lead from the towing vehicle to the RR that plugs in at both ends for ease of hookup/disconnect.
Fergie46
Active Member
Well, that would explain why people A frame them then.
But what does the A frame attach to - must be to the rear chassis members just like the towbar (hitch).
Without the downward force (pin weight), I guess.
Whatever happens, you're going to append a Range Rover to the back of the RV - the pull forces will be the same (trailer or not, still four wheels on the road and a trailer will have less rolling resistance, no diffs etc).
But what does the A frame attach to - must be to the rear chassis members just like the towbar (hitch).
Without the downward force (pin weight), I guess.
Whatever happens, you're going to append a Range Rover to the back of the RV - the pull forces will be the same (trailer or not, still four wheels on the road and a trailer will have less rolling resistance, no diffs etc).
The A frame inserts in to a boss on the tow bar at the back of the RV. It's a square thing, I've not seen one like it over here. It allows you to but a tow hitch, A frame, bike rack, whatever you want really on there.
In an interesting turn of events, I've found a guy in the UK who has in the past towed a Series, a Disco, a P38 and an L322 behind his RV!
He used an A frame and Brake Buddy like I intend to. He said he put the key is position 1 to unlock the steering and power up the cigar lighter (to power the Brake Buddy), and used the other key to lock the doors. Using the key though, not the remote. He also suggested getting a key cut at a locks place and using that. Because it won't have the fob, it would start the car even if someone got in. Sensible!
Lastly he said he just spliced into the wires and there was no problems with the BECM....on my head be it though!
I'm going to go the diode or new loom route, but it's nice to talk to someone who has done it with no problems, so that's nice.
In an interesting turn of events, I've found a guy in the UK who has in the past towed a Series, a Disco, a P38 and an L322 behind his RV!
He used an A frame and Brake Buddy like I intend to. He said he put the key is position 1 to unlock the steering and power up the cigar lighter (to power the Brake Buddy), and used the other key to lock the doors. Using the key though, not the remote. He also suggested getting a key cut at a locks place and using that. Because it won't have the fob, it would start the car even if someone got in. Sensible!
Lastly he said he just spliced into the wires and there was no problems with the BECM....on my head be it though!
I'm going to go the diode or new loom route, but it's nice to talk to someone who has done it with no problems, so that's nice.
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