Y'know, it seems an awful lot of hassle, hauling a "38" behind a camper
Wouldn't you be better getting a big ass caravan and hauling "that" behind a P38?
I did think of that, but for what I'm planning, I'll need a 5th wheel I think.
I have no doubt that she'd be reliable though. At least once I've sorted the front wheel bearing/ diff/ CV joint rumble out she will!
So you'd locking / unlocking with the key after towing? I think you need power to that otherwise you're in for BECM / EKA headaches just when you least need it. Guess you could power that with a permanent 12V off the supplemental socket.
The tail lamps will flash on the dash when towing so where does that feed back so that it knows the trailer lights are flashing? Is it just a current measurement in the BECM with a different output to the dash?
Given everything seems to come out of the one plug at the BECM end I think the original idea of snipping at the rear cluster, diode and then tie in downstream of the diode and then run the cable along the chassis rail to the front of the car seems the most fool-proof. You can get 2 cables out the hole for the towing electrics and the grommet is already there. Otherwise you'll have to bring a cable in through the bulkhead behind the dash somewhere.
He actually wants to get about - not lay under it all the time
The RV isn't for the family. That's just to carry all the tools and spares he might need.
Te BeCM has load sensing to know when a trailer is fitted, and when the trailer lights are not working, but seeing as that will all be disconnected it won't matter here.
The RV will have a tell-tail on it's dash to show when the P38s lights are being powered by it.
The thing I don't like about the diode route is that will be a voltage drop across the diode when it's passing current and that may make the BeCM suspect a fault, but will also make the rear lights dimmer when in normal use. Plus I like the fact I don't have to butcher the original loom to make it work, I can put it all back to normal when I'm finished. It's also more expensive to buy the correct rated diodes than just get the socket out of the BeCM on your dining room table and use that!
Regarding the locks, I suppose I'll have to do some testing. I thought I'd either lock the P38 with the spare key when towing, or just leave it unlocked.
Does anyone know what happens if you try and lock a P38 from the outside with a key in the ignition?
The RV will have a tell-tail on it's dash to show when the P38s lights are being powered by it.
The thing I don't like about the diode route is that will be a voltage drop across the diode when it's passing current and that may make the BeCM suspect a fault, but will also make the rear lights dimmer when in normal use. Plus I like the fact I don't have to butcher the original loom to make it work, I can put it all back to normal when I'm finished. It's also more expensive to buy the correct rated diodes than just get the socket out of the BeCM on your dining room table and use that!
Regarding the locks, I suppose I'll have to do some testing. I thought I'd either lock the P38 with the spare key when towing, or just leave it unlocked.
Does anyone know what happens if you try and lock a P38 from the outside with a key in the ignition?
The P38 won't lock with key in ignition, the alarm will give a warning on the dash....
One option is to find the 'Sill Lock' microswitch output from the drivers door latch mechanism and make a fly lead to splice into that with a socket hidden somewhere....make up a fly lead with a switch on it (you'll have to check if it is momentary or latched) with a plug to match your hidden socket.
When towing, plug in your remote switch lead to the hidden socket and run this to the RV in similar manner to the light lead.....
This way you can press the remote switch to lock the doors, in similar manner to if you were in the car and pressing down the drivers door sill lock button on the door!...might work!
Fergie46
Active Member
Ok, now we get to the crux of the whole thing. This rig your aiming to put together is going to be used overseas as you say the US.
As far as I'm aware rules and regs for this stuff can vary from state to state - I take it that you have thoroughly checked out the American statutes?
On road trips in the States, I have seen vehicles been driven around that you wouldn't half a mile in here without being pulled.
As far as I'm aware rules and regs for this stuff can vary from state to state - I take it that you have thoroughly checked out the American statutes?
On road trips in the States, I have seen vehicles been driven around that you wouldn't half a mile in here without being pulled.
Pretty well covered as far as the States bit is concerned!
I just need the A frame, the base-plate kit to fit to the P38 so the A frame can connect up, and a brake buddy to apply the P38's brakes when the RV brakes. I can use a lightboard over there if I want to, but I may as well sort out the electrics once and for all.
You don't even need a different license to drive a 9.5 tonne motor home, and tow 2.2tonnes of car!
That will change of course if I want to tow in the EU.
I just need the A frame, the base-plate kit to fit to the P38 so the A frame can connect up, and a brake buddy to apply the P38's brakes when the RV brakes. I can use a lightboard over there if I want to, but I may as well sort out the electrics once and for all.
You don't even need a different license to drive a 9.5 tonne motor home, and tow 2.2tonnes of car!
That will change of course if I want to tow in the EU.
Probably easiest & best to leave them unlocked while the key is in the ignition, and avoid unnecessary mods. Then whenever you park up, remove the key from ignition & lock the doors.
If you're worried about forgetting the key, maybe add a warning wire from the P38 Aux-12V to the RV, so it's on when the steering lock is disengaged.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
If your leaving the keys in the ignition you might want to split charge the p38 from the RV, last thing you want after a long drive is to find the p38 go dead as the bloody thing won't go to sleep as key in and not locked up, we all know what there like.
Valid point. BECM not sleeping will soon drain the battery. You might drive 12 hours in the States between stops. You certainly will if you go through Canada or across Russia. How easy would it be to remove the steering lock but leave the ignition barrel etc. in place? Then no need to leave the key in it.
The door locks open with a pulse. The power shoved through the lock motor is more than it can bear but because it only gets a short pulse it goes REALLY fast but only for a moment so it doesn't fry it. A moment too long, e.g. from RF and you're looking at new locks.
I'll check the BECM but I think those sockets might be soldered to the board.
I have already thought of that.
You can fit a battery charger that runs on a 12v feed from the RV trailer socket.
More than just leaving the keys in, I'Il have to leave the ignition on so the bloody brakes will be pressurized.
This is all getting very complicated!
You can fit a battery charger that runs on a 12v feed from the RV trailer socket.
More than just leaving the keys in, I'Il have to leave the ignition on so the bloody brakes will be pressurized.
This is all getting very complicated!
A beavertail trailer certainly sounds easier!
So, ideally don't want to leave the key in for security reason or if you do it needs to be locked. You can certainly lock the doors from within. Could lock using front sill lock and then climb out the tailgate?! Or you find the central locking microswitch and find a way to trigger that with a remote toggle switch or similar.
Then there's just the rear lights to sort from the trailer socket. The brake lights will go on with the brake-buddy, won't they? That just leaves the indicators and side lights.
Oi J, thats what I said.......am I fecking invisible today?
