Ian burritt

Active Member
Hi all, while watching the world of youtube I came across a novel, quick, easy way of cleaning out crud from inlet ports I have so read about. An American technician does it this way on AUDI engines.

I thought it clever ?
 
does not show how the crud debris was cleared out of the ports though, i would not fancy doing that to my engine.
 
Use what the American's call a shop vac, it`ll suck any debris out i would think.
How do the others clean out gunk in the inlet ports with engines in vehicle in the UK then ?
Have you seen UK based videos doing this.
 
I think thats a great idea. I used a plastic spatula to scrape off what i could see and used my workshop vac to suck it out. I will try this next time. I wish there was a cleaner way of clearing out the gunk from the inlet manifold itself !
 
I think thats a great idea. I used a plastic spatula to scrape off what i could see and used my workshop vac to suck it out. I will try this next time. I wish there was a cleaner way of clearing out the gunk from the inlet manifold itself !

I think the tried and tested oven cleaner & jet wash is the best you are going to get for the inlet manifold. recently did a few, a bit time consuming but the outcome is good.
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Clean and wipe the MAP sensor.
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Clean the EGR or add a original by pass gutted one.
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Lastly add the clean or new seals.
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The manifold then should keep relatively clean for at least a few years.
 
Yes, I used the pressure washer method but used brake cleaner instead of oven cleaner. Despite my best efforts, i still managed to get the oily gunk everywhere !!
 
Well, Interesting replies, thank you all.. Never thought of stripping out the EGR, i just purchased a shiny alloy fake one, but had Intentions of spraying it a flat black before fitting..
Ever since I purchased my 54 plate autobox one nearly 2 years ago, I have been adding good old fashioned redex diesel treatment to each fuelling and the engine does run much cleaner, so, eventually get round to a service, be Interesting to see how much gunk i have to remove..
Off subject slightly, with this months introduction of E10 forecourt pump petrol and Diesel having a 0 to 7% bio added mix, I wonder how long before diesel increases its bio content, thus making or Improving the engine gunking we know to happen/ thoughts anyone ? - My 10 years of ownership of an early 3 door disco 200 TDi ran luverly on my own bio mix of 50-50 diesel, new cooking oil and a splash of unleaded.. Ran as sweet as a nut and quiet and still went very well.. Sadly sold a few years ago..
Has anyone experimented with a bio mix of there own in a TD4 engine, or is it best to leave well alone on that Idea.
 
Off subject slightly, with this months introduction of E10 forecourt pump petrol and Diesel having a 0 to 7% bio added mix, I wonder how long before diesel increases its bio content, thus making or Improving the engine gunking we know to happen/ thoughts anyone ?

Out of our 4 family vehicles, only 1 is new enough to be guaranteed to work with the new E10 petrol.
My daughter has a 2008 Fiat 500 1.4 Sport, which isn't designed for any booze in the petrol.
The wife's TDI VW Eos says No Biodiesel on the filler cap, yet all I can get locally is B7.
My 2009 MY FL2 TD4 isn't designed for B7 either.
The family Mazda CX5 petrol says it's E10 compatible on the filler cap, so that'll be ok, only it's not ours, and returns to the lease company in January.
Those of us that have to use or own older vehicles due to indifferent interests or financial constraints will have no choice but to suck it and see, and hope no expensive damage is done.
 
Out of our 4 family vehicles, only 1 is new enough to be guaranteed to work with the new E10 petrol.
My daughter has a 2008 Fiat 500 1.4 Sport, which isn't designed for any booze in the petrol.
The wife's TDI VW Eos says No Biodiesel on the filler cap, yet all I can get locally is B7.
My 2009 MY FL2 TD4 isn't designed for B7 either.
The family Mazda CX5 petrol says it's E10 compatible on the filler cap, so that'll be ok, only it's not ours, and returns to the lease company in January.
Those of us that have to use or own older vehicles due to indifferent interests or financial constraints will have no choice but to suck it and see, and hope no expensive damage is done.

Having had a variant of diesel bug in my heating oil last winter I am not looking forward to using forecourt diesel with biofuel added. If you have a look yo8 will find reports of agricultural machinery breaking down because of these blasted additives. My kerosene got contaminated and it cost a small fortune for various so called heating engineers to fail to find and fix the problem. In the end - after over three months - I found the problem myself and bought a filter that filtered down to five micron, ran the whole tank through it, replaced all the inline filter and burner nozzle, and finally got it going again. Next thing I did was replace my fuel filter in the freelander with an expensive OEM one, which I plan to change annually.
I got through about six burner nozzles before I worked out what was happening. Each time a sort of slime had collected on the nozzle filter, blocking it and causing lockout. The pump in the burner was pulling the smallest particles through the normal filters and dumping it on the nozzle filter. I can see the same thing happening with diesel injectors.
I don't know what hippies have got against us, but they seem determined to sabotage us.
 
Such a bright future we look forwards to then - not.
My happy 10 years of ownership of a 1991 3 door TDi ran happily on 50% fresh new cooking oil, 50% diesel, plus a splash of unleaded to help clean lines, injectors and pumps..
Left wondering whats the best additives for either Petrol vehicles (I only have petrol motor scooters and a strimmer) or Diesel now in my TD4, as I been regularly using redex for diesel In my TD4.. I try not buying cheap supermarket derv though but If I do it gets a heavy shot of redex... Its just £2 a bottle In most big store outlets so it does about 2 tank fills.
 

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