bluedog333
Well-Known Member
I didn’t measure exactly, would have been about 12 litres though.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Did you top it up after you started it?
Col
Col
v8250
Well-Known Member
There's a trick with coolant/bleeding air. 1. premix correct volume and pour in 50-60% slowly to allow air to rise [heater matrix open/on hot], 2. allow to settle/burp, 3. top up with remainder, then run engine with radiator plug off to allow any trapped air to release. 4. keep running til engine properly hot, then turn off.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
No, bunged it all in in one hit. I did it slowly through the rad filler with a heater box hose removed at one end to expel air. I think I’ve done something wrong filling it up!
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
A few squeezes on the bottom hose forces water through the matrix if needed
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Have you checkedthe coolant level since starting it?
Col
Col
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Heater matrix is always open because there is no valve. ie- water at engine temperature is always running through it.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Yep, it’s where I filled it to.
I’ve never had it get so hot so quickly before.
v8250
Well-Known Member
Did you flush/reverse flush through both radiator and matrix before filling? I'd be tempted to fully drain. Reconnect hoses to matrix after flushing, same with radiator...and then start a slow refill.
Or, drive it round the block a couple of times to release any air...no, don't do this
Or, drive it round the block a couple of times to release any air...no, don't do this
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
None of the above!Did you flush/reverse flush through both radiator and matrix before filling? I'd be tempted to fully drain. Reconnect hoses to matrix after flushing, same with radiator...and then start a slow refill.
Or, drive it round the block a couple of times to release any air...no, don't do this
Is there actually a proper, written-down filling method? There seems to be all sorts of advice and methods out there, but is there one that can be followed step-by-step to achieve no air locks?
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah,I even liked that.
What would you say the simplest way of expelling air is without draining down the system again?
v8250
Well-Known Member
If an engine has a trapped air pocket with equalised pressure either side, it won't move and causes over-pressurisation. Many engines are buggers for this, not only Land Rovers...AM DB4,5 & 6's series can be absolute buggers. The only real way is to drain, complete a really good reverse flushing of heater matrix, radiator and engine...reconnect the hoses and and slowly refill. It's actually quite good fun knowing the system's been thoroughly flushed, all crud out...and it's only an hour's tinkering
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Well, she was running so smoothly for the past two days, better than ever in fact. Then… chuff chuff chuff chuff, aaarrghhh ffs!!! ‘Fortunately’, it’s not the head gasket again, that pesky stuck injector 4 is now blowing gas! I can’t be ar*ed trying to fix it, I’m getting a mobile mechanic out and he can sweat his balls off trying to free it.
Anyone want to buy a well-loved OneTen? One careful owner, then plenty of numpty owners after that.
Anyone want to buy a well-loved OneTen? One careful owner, then plenty of numpty owners after that.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
So it's all good then apart from the injector?
Slide hammer will/should/ probably get it out.
bluedog333
Well-Known Member
Yes, runs lovely. Temperature seems to have returned to normal after I took the thermostat out for a second test, must have released the airlock. I’ve ordered a Durite gauge for future reassurance.
Now just the blow-by on the stuck injector. Maybe the gas and oil being forced past the injector may have freed it up a bit? I don’t have a slide-hammer, I probably should get one. I might have another crack at getting the injector out tomorrow.
My heart sank when I heard the chuffing, exactly the same noise as when the head gasket failed.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
That injector may come it once warm
Loosen inj clamp nut and take her for a drive to see if it moves some more, if you do get it out you want one of them cheap inj seat cutter sets off of ebay about 15 quid, you dont cut the seat as such just scrape it clean, they do a decent job for the money.
Check new scopper eal washer is soft, if not anneall it before fitting.
I had a stuck no4 inj on a 200 and drove the car for weeks before it started to chuff/loose with a loose clamp nut, then with some lube I got the bloody thing out, it was a struggle and I had spent hours on the thing.
