C

craigmcguire

New Member
Thanks for looking :)

Unfortunately my Freelander decided to die on me yesterday, or hopefully just took a snooze, and i can wake it up with your help!
52 plate, Freelander 1.8 Serengeti 3dr Petrol

Was driving home, suddenly started to lose power like I was running out of fuel. Didn't feel any juddering or coughing/spluttering, just a gradual loss of power. When I stopped it just died.
I figured it might have run out of fuel, but the emergency light had just come on, but I went and got a tank from the handily nearby garage and topped it up.
When I turn the key, the engine is turning over, and turning well, but its just not firing. Have checked the oil, water, fuses, engine cut-off switch, put some redex in the tank, and its still in the huff.

Please please please help, coz I've just started a new business as a photographer, and I need my wheels!!!!

Thanks, Craig.
 
Might have to go back to basics here. Try cranking it a few times then take a plug out and have a look at it. Is it dry? No fuel. Is it wet and smelling of petrol, No ignition. By the sound of it I would suspect you have a fuel supply problem and would be suspecting the fuel pump. No manual to hand right now so I can't see the details but this is something to be going along with. Good luck.
 
Darmain said:
Might have to go back to basics here. Try cranking it a few times then take a plug out and have a look at it. Is it dry? No fuel. Is it wet and smelling of petrol, No ignition. By the sound of it I would suspect you have a fuel supply problem and would be suspecting the fuel pump. No manual to hand right now so I can't see the details but this is something to be going along with. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Darmain.
Will give that a bash in the morning.

Have been having a browse around the forums to see if I can locate the position of the fuel pump, after me and my old man had a look under bonnet and couldn't find it.
Seems to be some variation between the models, with some having it under the d/s rear wheel arch, some under the passengers seat, and some under the bonnet on the passenger side.
Can anyone shed some light on this?

Craig
 
Take the plug out and put the cap back on and hold it against the block with some insulated plier while an assistant cranks the engine. Does it spark? No spark at all means ignition/electronics.
 
Hi Guys,

Okay, my bro-in-law came over and gave me a hand testing stuff out, so here's the crack.

1) Tested each of the spark plugs, each smelled of petrol, but the spark was weak, so we've replaced the plugs.
2) Engine is turning over like before, but with a slight shudder to it now, like its trying to fire, but can't quite do it.
3) We've tested all the electrics and everything's fine, the air filter was replaced 2000 miles ago, there's fuel, and there is pressure coming out the exhaust.
4) It passed its MOT two weeks ago, with flying colours, and good scores on the emissions test.
5) Checked the fuel cut-off switch several times too, just in case.

I'm totally flumoxed here.
It seems to be getting fuel, spark, air, all that good stuff that engines need to run, and there's no blockages we can find. Compression is good too...

any suggestions?

Craig
 
Update:
My bro-in-law removed an injector, checked it and it looks good, but then we checked to see if fuel was getting through to the injectors themselves, and it looks like its not.
I take it we're talking about either a duff fuel pump or fuel filter? :(

Craig
 
Okay, now I'm totally confused.
We took out the fuel pump, checked it and the filter was pretty clean. Then we put it back in, with the fuel pipe pulled out, turned the ignition on, and it started pumping out petrol. Working fuel pump, clean filter.

Then we removed the injector-fuel-bar-thingummy, took an injector off the end, and turned the ignition on. Fuel spurted out of that.
We've got spark, we've got fuel, and we've got air.
But we've still got an engine that won't start.

Stumped, and thoroughly hating my car.... PLEASE help!!! :(
 
My FL wouldn't start (intermittently) recentl) and it was a cam shaft sensor.

Probably not, because it died slowly, but maybe??

Oscar
 
Could be.
I'm actually beginning to think its the immobiliser, but I'm really not sure.
Reasons:

1) When I turn the ignition, the spark plugs are sparking, and there is compression in the engine.
2) I know the fuel pump is sending fuel to the injectors when the key is turned in the ignition.
3) I know the exhaust is not blocked.
4) I know the engine is turning over, but not firing.
5) I also now know that there is no fuel getting through to the engine. (new spark plugs, don't smell of petrol, but the fuel pump is working fine)

So, is it that the injectors are knackered, which I doubt, as they're only a year old, and they still look in great nick?
Is it the immobiliser stopping the injectors from putting fuel into the engine?
Is it as Oscar suggested, and its a dodgy sensor somewhere?

Seriously any help here would be greatly appreciated. I'm having to turn away bookings for my new business as a photographer, because I can't get to them. :(
 
If its the immobiliser playing up the red LED light be on in the instrument pack, is it? Sounds like you need to get the diagnostics plugged in, see if any fault codes are stored, where are you?
 
craigmcguire said:
Hi Guys,

Okay, my bro-in-law came over and gave me a hand testing stuff out, so here's the crack.

1) Tested each of the spark plugs, each smelled of petrol, but the spark was weak, so we've replaced the plugs.
2) Engine is turning over like before, but with a slight shudder to it now, like its trying to fire, but can't quite do it.
3) We've tested all the electrics and everything's fine, the air filter was replaced 2000 miles ago, there's fuel, and there is pressure coming out the exhaust.
4) It passed its MOT two weeks ago, with flying colours, and good scores on the emissions test.
5) Checked the fuel cut-off switch several times too, just in case.

I'm totally flumoxed here.
It seems to be getting fuel, spark, air, all that good stuff that engines need to run, and there's no blockages we can find. Compression is good too...

any suggestions?

Craig
Click to expand...

Just some basics...

Assuming it has just one and not separate coil packs, (i don't know these petrol jobbies and I believe there are model differences) Is the coil OK ?

primary winding resistance
(0.71 to 0.81 ohms at 20°C)

there needs to be a good fat spark, test by holding the king lead near to the engine and crank, the spark should be strong enough to jump a decent gap. Then check rotor arm and cap.

It's one thing having a spark but is it occurring at the right time?

If it turns out the spark is good then look at what control ignition timing, check the crank sensor and it's connections.


I'm more familiar with diesel models but thought I'd chip in. sorry if it's no help. :eek:
 
tank93 said:
If its the immobiliser playing up the red LED light be on in the instrument pack, is it? Sounds like you need to get the diagnostics plugged in, see if any fault codes are stored, where are you?
Click to expand...

I'm in Edinburgh, and the freelander is in my driveway. Thankfully its at least off the road!

The red LED on the dash goes on when I lock the doors, and goes off when I unlock them, and I've tried disconnecting the battery, removing the fuses, replace, reconnect, and lock/unlock a whole bunch of times, but the system seems to be working fine. It's just not letting the car start.

If I've got to get the diagnostics plugged in, does that mean getting it lifted and taken to the local landrover dealer at £90ph + VAT? :eek:
 
Chaser said:
Just some basics...

Assuming it has just one and not separate coil packs, (i don't know these petrol jobbies and I believe there are model differences) Is the coil OK ?

primary winding resistance
(0.71 to 0.81 ohms at 20°C)

there needs to be a good fat spark, test by holding the king lead near to the engine and crank, the spark should be strong enough to jump a decent gap. Then check rotor arm and cap.

It's one thing having a spark but is it occurring at the right time?

If it turns out the spark is good then look at what control ignition timing, check the crank sensor and it's connections.


I'm more familiar with diesel models but thought I'd chip in. sorry if it's no help. :eek:
Click to expand...

I know the spark on it is strong now, and my bro-in-law checked all the electrics on it using a multi-meter and some other odd-looking gadgets, and I know he checked the timing belt too, but I appreciate the help. Believe me, I'm desperate to get this car back on the road, so any suggestions are really appreciated!

Craig
 
If you're losing money, get it to the local LR dealer and get him to sort it.

Even if it costs you £500 you'll probably lose more in lost revenue.

Sorry, but that's what I'd do.

Oscar
 
I suspect a failure in the timing signals to the ECU. The crank sensor will give reference to TDC, the cam sensor will tell which of the two pots at TDC to inject into. Either one of these being out will render the engine out of service. I would have thought the engine management light would be on though.
 
Darmain could be right, Check both sensors.
 

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