injector seals?

lyndbo said:

I haven't mike ,but this morning it won't start ,checked fuel and it seems that air is getting to the filter ,after bleeding and priming it goes back to getting air in the filter

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Oh dear, that's not good. Beyond my knowledge of this engine now. @GrumpyGel will have a good idea hopefully. Mike

I do wonder whether it's a failing battery, all the power is being used at cranking, leaving nothing to open the fuel pump solenoid, a direct jump start first thing in the morning would confirm this.

or let the battery charge overnight so that the first start in the morning would be attempted with a full battery

you can accompany this with a voltage check during cranking maybe

Skinny Mike said:

Oh dear, that's not good. Beyond my knowledge of this engine now. @GrumpyGel will have a good idea hopefully. Mike

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I love the L Series Skinney, but it never goes wrong - so I have no great knowledge of fixing it!

I've done quite a bit of reading up on it - so I know a fair bit about it factually - but fixing it my knowledge comes straight from threads on LZ! As other L Series owners experiences is similar to mine - there isn't a lot to go on.

@lyndbo how do you know air is getting in the filter? There are no glass bubbles on them to see inside - I'm presuming you're opening the bleed screw and when you pump it there's air comes out first? Could this air not be getting it when you open the bleed screw? If there is air getting in presumably it must be somewhere between the filter and pump - if it were from the pump or further 'forward', it would leak fuel once the pump was active.

I've done a bit of a search, and come up with this really useful thread for anyone with starting problems on their L Series....

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/201446-freelander-l-series-engine-starting-problem

So a cheap quick fix is to replace the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp sensor). Be careful to replace the one the ECU goes by - not the temp guage one - they use different sensors.

The more time consuming, but doesn't cost anything, is to check the fuel pump timing. However, if your belts need replacing, replace them first or else it will all need to be done again. You may find that putting new belts on solves the problem anyway even if the pump timing isn't done at the time - but it should be checked anyway when doing the belts.

If these are OK, it may be fuel draining back out of the pump overnight as the pump needs fuel in the system to build pressure to get the correct timing. If this is the problem, what causes the drain back is another (more difficult to identify) problem. The leak back pipes do perish (I've replaced mine recently), but I'm not sure this would let air in to drain to the pump (it didn't on mine, although that thread does suggest it can). Possible drain through the injectors themselves I suppose. I'd have thought if air is getting in in the pipework upward of the pump, it would leak when the pump is running.

So, if you've changed the temp sensor (and it was the right one!) - I would strongly suggest you get the belts done. It sounds like they are in need of replacing and its a big gamble not to do them when they're needed. This alone has a good chance of fixing the problem - so long as the FP timing is done when the belts are done.

Thanks for that bud ,the sensor I changed was a blue one to the left side of the engine under the engine cover ,would that be the right one?

From Rave ...

The temperature of the cooling system is monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM) via signals from a twin terminal temperature sensor, which is mounted in the top face of the coolant outlet elbow... The coolant outlet elbow also houses a single terminal sensor which provides a coolant temperature output to the instrument panel temperature gauge.

So its the twin terminal sensor mounted on the top of the elbow that governs fueling.

I replaced the front one ,the back of the alternator.

Battery fully charged now and all it does is turn over ,no fumes from the exhaust while turning over ,I have to admit defeat and I've called the breakdown out .

sounds like it's not getting fuel. does it take a fair bit of cranking to start? then once it gets going it'll start first time unless you leave it for hours?

ah, you've called the breakdown now, so let them sort i t

initially sounds like you might have leakback to the tank.. but i don't know the l series. one trick is to park the car the other way around if you are on a slight gradient.

It started with the help of easy start ,but think the fuel is returning back ,what would cause this

It's quite difficult for fuel to drain back to the tank, unless there's a leak before the fuel pump. This should be evident when you pump the bulb. As GG said, make sure that the bleed screw is open to expell air. Close the bleed screw while you are still expelling some fuel. This way, no air can back siphon in.
I can't see how the fuel pump is emptying over night, causing this issue. It contains about half a litre of fuel, which is enough for many minutes of running, let alone stating the engine.
I wish breakdown techs wouldn't use Easy Start, it's death to engine's in a can.

And it hasn't sorted the problem nodge,I can't find any leaks , I did have a return pipe go last week ,changed it , bled it but still had the problem of starting in the morning .ive booked it in now for a cam belt kit change as its overdue according to the history .if I can't get to the root of the problem I'll get him to investigate .Thank god my other car a mg zs is the most reliable car I've owned its been a god send living in the sticks .

I love the ZS, I've had 3 over the years. I bought a new Trophy Blue 180 when they came out. I loved it, even though it wasn't very reliable. The 2 I had later on were heavily modified but problem free. I still love them now, I just don't need one now.
Your L series does sound like timing to me.

That's the right temp sensor.

You're doing the right thing in getting the belts changed. Its a job that has to be done and if its a timing issue (which its looking likely) is probably caused by the belts and even if its not - the person doing the belts should reset the timing anyway. So 2 birds, 1 stone and all that!

The leak back pipe on your #1 injector in the pic doesn't look original - so they have been done at some point (which isn't unusual). I'm assuming its not original as the ones that came off mine were a 'braided' (and crumbly!) material whereas yours look just rubber.

All the leak back pipes have all been changed now ,hopefully it'll be sorted with the belts ,I've spent that much money on it I'm loathed to get rid of it transfer box,propshaft,diff ,clutch,starter motor kit ,window regulator and motor,brakes,steering components and only had it 4 years and still only 110,000 on the clock .

Is your fuel tank pump working?

freelance said:

Is your fuel tank pump working?

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I'm sure other than the main "injection pump" there are no other pumps on the L Series. There's a hand pump to prime the system and from there the injection pump does all the pumping work. Its very much [not] high tech is the L Series.

freelance said:

Is your fuel tank pump working?

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No lift pump on the L series engine. It doesn't need it as it's a good old fashioned injection pump

im on my 2nd l series now in rover 45s,the 1st was faultless for years till i changed the belts and got the injection timing slightly out then it was a pig to start till i reset it.the only time it ever really failed to start was after i hit a tree!
my current l series i have had for just over 2 years has also been bulletproof despite being tweaked and thrashed daily.
it will be something simple im sure,persevere with it,it could be worse it could be a td4 then you would learn the meaning of the word problems!!