I think this will work,

Pull No1 injector, straighten a wire coat hanger and carefully place end into injector hole, it should touch the piston crown. Then wind crank by hand until the hanger is at its highest, IF the crank mark lines up AND the flywjeel pin goes in youv'e got it set, if not the go carefully round one turn and try again.


Remember to make ALL settings/ checks by turning in the correct rotation only, never go backwards.
aint the flywheel timing pin and the crank arrow all connected?

wouldnt matter which position its in as the cam and pump are set to it
 
I think this will work,

Pull No1 injector, straighten a wire coat hanger and carefully place end into injector hole, it should touch the piston crown. Then wind crank by hand until the hanger is at its highest, IF the crank mark lines up AND the flywjeel pin goes in youv'e got it set, if not the go carefully round one turn and try again.
That's what i woulld have done with my V8 engine when checking timing set up. Obviously easier removing a spark plug but principle would remain the same but the locking pins all coming together at this point will make me feel confident. I will do this and also rotate engine a few times to check all inside is clearing.
 
aint the flywheel timing pin and the crank arrow all connected?

wouldnt matter which position its in as the cam and pump are set to it


No, the crank runs at twice the speed of the cam and pump.

Get it 180 out and big problems will arise :eek:

Hmm, thinks, hang on a minute, thinks some more, scratches head...

Ok, i'm lost now, pistons one and four go up/down together, so yes as long as the crank pin goes in, number one must be going up and by setting the cam to reference pointer you are making that stoke a compression one so all is well.

I think, my head hurts now;)
 
yes.

its what i thought earlier in thread, but got the ratios wrong way round in my head and made a silly comment.

guess its what happens when you trawl too many threads at the same time!
 
If you have the timing kit you can't really go wrong .
It will set the pump for No. 1 and the pistons - pistons 1 and 4 will be at TDC at the same time ( no. 1 on compression stroke and no 4 on exhaust stroke ).
The camshaft can be lined up with the mark on the head .
With belt fitted you will have to set the tappets.
Turning the engine you can check that with No.1 at TDC - the 2 valves on NO 1 cylinder are closed . On No.4 the ex will be closing and the inlet just opening .
 
Thanks, waiting for timing kit and parts anyway so may as well put my S2A back together as weather here is brutal and I need transport. Will post some pics if I manage to get the 2A on the road.
 
a few bent push rods maybe

Spot on Sean, 3 bent pushrods look like the only damage so far. Managed to loosen all housing bolts without any casualties. Parts not arrived yet so cant do much else.
I tried to get my swb ser 2A V8 out today but no luck as it was frozen solid.

Thanks for all the replies and help, I will post hopefully a good story once parts arrive.
 
As im still waiting for timing pin kit I thought I would crack on with stripping down as far as I could. All bolts came out no prob and I also removed the stud top center. I did the cowboy breaker bar on nut and it came off 2nd turn of starter! To my amazement on undoing the 30mm bolt the damper pulley slid straight off in my hands!!!

I have removed tensioner and jockey wheel, cleaned out all the casing and am now ready for timing and belt.

With the belt being already off.... I align the cam pulley dot with timing case marker whilst aligning the crank to the arrow and woodrift key whilst checking that the flywheel notch is central in drain plug position??
When I am satisfied they are all lined up my question tonight is about the pump timing.... When the pump is lined up with the pin hole is that it? Would I be right in saying that the pump can be set in one position only?
If this is correct then I will prob have a go tomorrow as the weather has obviously delayed timing pin kit so I was gonna crack on using a 9/9.5mm drill bit??? as pump pin and I was going to mod a drain plug as flywheel lock.

I really need the car hence the haste.
 
That's about it, I modded a drain plug in the lathe as the hole needs to be nice and central. Yes pump is good when pin goes in. Slacken the three pump pulley bolts and keep the belt tight between crank and cam and then onto the pump, all the slack must be between the pump and crank, having the pump pulley slightly slack will allow this to be done.
 
Yes, did a few searches on pump timing and Im starting to get my head round the timing. Hopefully wont be posting a 'new belt fitted wont run' thread over next few days!

Dave, what did you use as a pin through the drain plug? What depth did you set it at once thru the plug? Also what did u use to re-tighten the crank bolt to 350Nm?
 
I have ordered one and was told today it has not yet been dispatched and I may not get it till next week so gonna do what I can rather than wait. I was really getting it for the damper puller but it came off rather easily!
 
I used a 6" length of 3/16" rod for the flywheel, you have to 'feel' for the slot as you turn the crank over very slowly. I used 3/8" rod for the pump, once through the pulley it only goes in about 1/2".

To tighten the crank bolt i used a tool i made to lock the crank against the front crossmember and a 36" breaker bar, it took some pulling to get the 90deg though!

Dave
 
Bump!
Just an update to close this thread.
I eventually did the job of replacing my timing belt.(work and bad weather delayed) I had to do it without the kit and would now like to say a massive thank you to everyone who contributed. As it was my first time doing a belt on a Disco I was in need of confidence and each and every reply built that enough for me to tackle the job.
Started first turn of the key and sounds better than before!
I dont post much but I do log on daily and read through the Discovery section so hopefully at some point I may contribute more.
So glad I'm not posting a bad ending.
Thank you one and all and Davek.
Paul.
 
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In addition.

Anyone who is at all apprehensive at doing this job, PM me. I read all the threads, watched the You tube videos, consulted the manual and asked the guys on here. If I can help any one in the same position I was in last week then I would be more than happy to.
 

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