err its been over the course of about 8 months with a 5 month break due to a busted leg let me remember.
Ok
I did the pump body tweak thing to get it running right and smooth, but then it was quite smokey so if you look at the pump body from the timing case end, on the right hand side about half way down is the fuelling screw, it might be under a plastic cap, i fiddled with that a lot.
Pump body tweaking:
- set revs at around 600-800 ish
- with engine off slacken the fuel pipes at the pump (or they could fracture)
- mark the pump body relative to the timing case so you have a known setting to return to if you over do it.
- slacken off the pump body securing
- gently rotate the pump body 1 or 2 mm towards or away from the engine (this changes the fuel timing relative to the cylinder timing)
- retighten everything and start the engine, take it for a drive and listen for knocks under load. If it knocks you have gone to far so back off the rotation of the pump a bit. you will know if it is knocking, it will be clattery as hell.
repeat the above to get a good compromise between power/lack of knocking.
once you have 'narrowed' the pump adjustment down to a couple of millimetres you can tighten the fuel pumps and there is 'just enough' room to move the pump about 2mm either way. Be careful though it doesnt take much to damage the fuel pipes. I fopund i got more movement in them if i took off the supports temporarily.
My fuel timing seemed best when the pump was rotated towards the engine about 2mm.
At first i move it about 8mm and it was like a bag of nails
Mine was then quite smoky (black smoke so unburnt fuel) so i did this
Fuel supply adjustment (be careful with this its easy to cock it up)
on right hand side of the pump body looking from the timing cover end is a bolt with a locknut, it might be covered with a plastic anti-tamper cover.
Before you go any further measure accurately the distance of the bolt head from the fuel pump body so you can return to this setting if needed.
i then wound the screw out a few mm, test drove and looked at smoke (had someone following me), screwed it in, drove again etc and repeated till i had got it smoking as little as possible. To far either way causes over or under fuelling noticeable by a massive smoke screen or lack of power. this was the bit that toooks me ages and ages to get right, i think my screw ended up about 3mm screwed further in. Its a trial and error thing.
I did this whole process twice, narrowing it down more each time to the optimum setting. End result is engine is a bit quieter, better MPG and seems happier at faster speeds (lol)
Ed