Datatek
Well-Known Member
Clear all the faults and see what comes back. It sounds more like an electrical problem than a mechanical problem with the HP pump as there are other intercommunication problem.
Hi thanks for the reply
I've had a auto electrician look at it he cleared the codes and it just comes back
Some times it let's me drive it normally after being in limp mode
One garage I rang said the body needs to come off to replace the hp pump but reading about 2006 models
It's been said that it does not
Although it may not even be that
I need somebody that can diagnose and fix this
It's beating the garages round here so far
I've had a auto electrician look at it he cleared the codes and it just comes back
Some times it let's me drive it normally after being in limp mode
One garage I rang said the body needs to come off to replace the hp pump but reading about 2006 models
It's been said that it does not
Although it may not even be that
I need somebody that can diagnose and fix this
It's beating the garages round here so far
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
In your other post, you say that the pressures when tested are OK. If so then it's going to be an electrical fault.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
That is the million dollar question. It needs somebody with electronics expertise to work through things step by step.
Cars are being made ever more complex and there is not the know how available to fix them.
Petrol and matches?
Hi @robpeace
as mentioned by datatek , what pressure readings did u get for the LPFP plse
if that checks out would move onto the fuel filter and ensure fuel lines are clear as this can sometimes cause that DTC error code
on the fuel filter u will notice a small hole , if the filter or one of those smaller fuel pipes are blocked it can build up and eventually stress the spring in the control valve in the high pressure pump and may cause fault P2288
alas it’s sometimes required to blow out the fuel lines if there blocked , plse ensure no air is put onto the fuel pipe going towards the HPFP
u might be lucky and just require a fuel filter , plse ensure it’s a genuine or good make , ie, Mahle, plse also take note of the pipe connections as they can be crossed
just wondered of this may be ur problem and that it helps
plse let us know how u get on
PS, body does not need to come off to replace the HPFP
as mentioned by datatek , what pressure readings did u get for the LPFP plse
if that checks out would move onto the fuel filter and ensure fuel lines are clear as this can sometimes cause that DTC error code
on the fuel filter u will notice a small hole , if the filter or one of those smaller fuel pipes are blocked it can build up and eventually stress the spring in the control valve in the high pressure pump and may cause fault P2288
alas it’s sometimes required to blow out the fuel lines if there blocked , plse ensure no air is put onto the fuel pipe going towards the HPFP
u might be lucky and just require a fuel filter , plse ensure it’s a genuine or good make , ie, Mahle, plse also take note of the pipe connections as they can be crossed
just wondered of this may be ur problem and that it helps
plse let us know how u get on
PS, body does not need to come off to replace the HPFP
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No. 1 is tank supply yellow (arrowed in),
No. 2 is fuel cooler return white
No.3 is high pressure pump (arrowed out) “”” this is the one where air shouldn’t be put onto the pipe “”””
No. 4 blue, and vent is 4 also blue small one
hope this helps in trying to resolve the fault code
plus as a side note U codes can normally be ignored
No. 2 is fuel cooler return white
No.3 is high pressure pump (arrowed out) “”” this is the one where air shouldn’t be put onto the pipe “”””
No. 4 blue, and vent is 4 also blue small one
hope this helps in trying to resolve the fault code
plus as a side note U codes can normally be ignored
ref DTC code B1A00, that can sometimes be the wires underneath the seats that go to the seat belt pre tensioners
also need to ensure ur battery is fully charged, ie, with the engine off should read 12.6 Vdc and roughly 14.5 Vdc engine running
hope that also helps u
also need to ensure ur battery is fully charged, ie, with the engine off should read 12.6 Vdc and roughly 14.5 Vdc engine running
hope that also helps u
no probs and many thks for letting us know , indeed going though it step by step in assisting u and then to see if anything stands out
always good to start with the easy things first, lol
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sounds like they are looking for a big pay cheque. If you cannot DIY, these cars require very deep pockets.
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Could you possibly get it back and go thru what @gstuart suggested step by step?
If it does turn out to be hpfp there's a diy guide here. I don't know how good or correct it is, I just found it via Google
www.rangerovers.net
I can't recommend following gstuarts advice enough. He can help you work out methodically what the problem is, it can take time, I know we all like a silver bullet but we've all got experience of garages firing the parts cannon
If it does turn out to be hpfp there's a diy guide here. I don't know how good or correct it is, I just found it via Google
High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement DIY Range Rover Sport
I can't recommend following gstuarts advice enough. He can help you work out methodically what the problem is, it can take time, I know we all like a silver bullet but we've all got experience of garages firing the parts cannon
Could you possibly get it back and go thru what @gstuart suggested step by step?
If it does turn out to be hpfp there's a diy guide here. I don't know how good or correct it is, I just found it via Google
High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement DIY Range Rover Sport
I can't recommend following gstuarts advice enough. He can help you work out methodically what the problem is, it can take time, I know we all like a silver bullet but we've all got experience of garages firing the parts cannon
bless u kind sir, indeed many of us have a lot of knowledge with these motors and would hate to see the OP get screwed without covering all the bases beforehand to ensure 100% that it’s the HPFP and not something simple like a blocked line or filter
have heard of cheap filters causing issues
hopefully we can get the garage pressure readings from the LPFP , along with if the gauge remained stable and not fluctuating
thks again mate and great that we all have our own section of expertise so collectively we shoule Hopefully be able to narrow it down along with eliminating things
still can’t get over why a garage refuses to replace a HPFP without removing the body, outrageous and would tell them to do one
ps, reminds me when I was at work on boilers etc where many companies would be glorified part changers without going through the system step by step and ensuring whats at fault
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