sidewaysste
Active Member
You sir are a Knight in tinfoil armour, reckon those rust poles should be changed for lightly greased smooth ones....
Unfortunately that box is about a billion miles from me
hopefully it won't be too expensive
Currently wrestling with a pedal box - got the old one out after I gave in and removed the entire steering column....
On the plus side, the auto box and those bastid allen bolts are out so progress is being made...
Unfortunately that box is about a billion miles from me
hopefully it won't be too expensive Currently wrestling with a pedal box - got the old one out after I gave in and removed the entire steering column....
On the plus side, the auto box and those bastid allen bolts are out so progress is being made...
sidewaysste
Active Member
I have a manual discovery! unfortunately I got the steering column off by a couple of splines and it squeaks like a buggered rat where it goes through the gasket in the firewall - I think I know what those white plastic top hats were for now :S
I've alos got massive transmission backlash somewhere in the front axle - you can turn the front propshaft nearly 1/4 turn... and favourites for wear there?
I've alos got massive transmission backlash somewhere in the front axle - you can turn the front propshaft nearly 1/4 turn... and favourites for wear there?
sidewaysste
Active Member
Also, the LT77 that I've fitted has what looks like a heavy duty cast release fork and an oil cooler - is this usual?
sidewaysste
Active Member
Right so new diff then? should be easy enough
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Well yeah but tbh most used diffs will be worn also!
You really need to pull your diff and check how much play is in your half shaft assemblies on either side inc cv joint obvs, and then decide on diff.
The only real sense is to upgrade to some kind of biasing/locking diff anyway
You really need to pull your diff and check how much play is in your half shaft assemblies on either side inc cv joint obvs, and then decide on diff.
The only real sense is to upgrade to some kind of biasing/locking diff anyway
sidewaysste
Active Member
Funnily enough, guess what I ordered last week....
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Probably a locker, ECU is already covered but he's been naughty and not opted for Megasquirt in favour of some other cowboy ECU
sidewaysste
Active Member
Probably a locker, ECU is already covered but he's been naughty and not opted for Megasquirt in favour of some other cowboy ECU
Let battle commence
Yeah a locker
Welded some O2 bungs into the collector at the weekend for NB and WB sensing
sidewaysste
Active Member
Righty, got my locker today, so I thought I'd pop that in the back and use the diff from the back in the front as there was very little play at the rear prop and loads at the front. Pulled the rear diff out, popped the locker in and took the front diff out to find that there wasn't the slightest bit of play in it - it's better than the rear! Gr. I found a bit of play in the near side cv joint, which I figure when magnified 3.54 times would about account for it. Anyone else got any thoughts before I toddle off to paddocks tomorrow to buy new cvs swivels and hub bearing at £280?
sidewaysste
Active Member
It is, there's a helluva lot of backlash when you're driving - feels like something's gonna break everytime the clutch is released.... I think the autobox masked a lot of the play. The swivel balls are pitted and leaking grease and the bearings were dry as the proverbial religious lady's holy bits...
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Fair play then.
Oh yeah I'm all for replacing swivels and making everything tip top don't get me wrong, just that replacing parts for small amounts of slack is OTT IMO.
But, if the cv is shot then it needs replacing.
Have you checked the drive member?
Often these wear out but also take the cv/half shaft with them.
Oh and I ####ing hate the 24 spline seal arrangement, my advice is get rid of the half shaft seal so that you get some oil into the bearings.
Mine are beautifully lubed because the 10 spline axle does not have half shaft seals
Oh yeah I'm all for replacing swivels and making everything tip top don't get me wrong, just that replacing parts for small amounts of slack is OTT IMO.
But, if the cv is shot then it needs replacing.
Have you checked the drive member?
Often these wear out but also take the cv/half shaft with them.
Oh and I ####ing hate the 24 spline seal arrangement, my advice is get rid of the half shaft seal so that you get some oil into the bearings.
Mine are beautifully lubed because the 10 spline axle does not have half shaft seals
sidewaysste
Active Member
Excuse my ignorance but what's the drive member?
