SmithyP38

Member
Age old problem.
94 p38 diesel
I locked it with the key went back and tried with remote and no luck.
Eventually got enter key code.
I went through process ie four initial turns then the code then 1 turn but it didn't unlock.
Lights flashed as they should but on completion the doors don't unlock (only drivers) and it goes to lock out mode.
My neighbour has acquired the old diagnostic computer will that identify problem?
 
The only thing I'm not sure of is posts suggest I don't need the initial four on this year model but it does respond on the flashers as it should.

Any thoughts welcome
 
Should be for example code of 1234
4 lock,
1 unlock
2 lock
3 unlock
4 lock
1 unlock.
and if fails to work, open and close drivers door as after 3 failed attempts goes on lockout for 30 mins, opening door after every 2 failed attempts stops this happening
 
slow and steady. do mine too quick and dont register. When its on keycode lockout it wont do anything for 30 mins
 
I've been watching for green lights on dash and they seem to be registering each turn.
EKA was used by last owner so happy that is correct.
Bonnet has just clicked down so will try again in as eit was registered open
Thanks for your info btw
 
Wont work if door bonnet etc open. Mine is a 98, and it flashed the headlight lamp on dash with each turn. Im sure my old 96 v8 did aswell
 
Wait for keycode lock out to go, then unlock drivers door, then double lock with key. take key out and wait for led on dash top to stop fast flashing. Then start the EAK process. count as you do each turn. And make sure turn the key the full 90 degrees in the lock.
 
Been real steady on each turn and had the green dash light flash on each return.
Key in ignition flashes up on dash for a time while I'm doing it
 
that may be the problem. There is a microswitch at the inner end of the barrel. With pocket fluff dirt and grime can cause it to stick in. A quick squirt with WD with the stray, or similar and a good in/out with they key. Although its not recomended to use wet lubes in locks, should free the switch up. Dry graphite powder, or a good rubbing over key with a pencil helps things stay moving.
 
Hi there

CDL switch? If that's gone will it stop it responding to the code... Any idea how much they are and how easy to do?
P38 novice here..
Thanks for the post BTW
 
Hi there

CDL switch? If that's gone will it stop it responding to the code... Any idea how much they are and how easy to do?
P38 novice here..
Thanks for the post BTW

Needs a new or refurbished drivers door lock. When the EKA code has been entered correctly the CDL switch unlocks the other doors.
 
But surely it would still deactivate the immobiliser even without unlocking central locking? If its coming up on occasions with key in alert that would over ride the EKA activation?
 
But surely it would still deactivate the immobiliser even without unlocking central locking? If its coming up on occasions with key in alert that would over ride the EKA activation?
If you have the key in alert when the key is not in, the shutter in the ignition lock is sticking and that will cause you problems.
 

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