briandisco
New Member
Thanks, Chaps.
Brian
Brian
You need to remove the tensioner using the nut on the lhs only, the spring-loaded action of the tensioner is strong and I find it helpful to use a long breaker bar and socket to move it.quote]
I only thought you had to lever the pulley upwards, I have been trying to fit the new belt for the past couple of hours, but just cant seem to get the belt round the last pulley. I run at of oommph.
Any ideas, I have posted similar replies on other threads as this is really bugging me
You need to remove the tensioner using the nut on the lhs only, the spring-loaded action of the tensioner is strong and I find it helpful to use a long breaker bar and socket to move it.quote]
I only thought you had to lever the pulley upwards, I have been trying to fit the new belt for the past couple of hours, but just cant seem to get the belt round the last pulley. I run at of oommph.
Any ideas, I have posted similar replies on other threads as this is really bugging me
To lift the tensioner to put a new belt on, all you do is put a socket on the tensioner pulley nut (not the one that holds the tensioner assembly to the block) and with a long-handled socket driver or breaker bar, lever in an anti-clockwise direction against the spring tension and the pulley will lift, allowing you to fit a new belt.
It's much easier to do than to describe actually.
Well, it had to happen. The first breakdown. Driving home yesterday the battery light came on and the power steering disappeared. Limped home for 10 miles as I was in the country with no mobile signal available.
Although a testament to the 300's ruggedness (I'm sure they used to reside in a blacksmiths shop) they can still be driven upto 45mphish on easy flat roads, just keep a very good eye on the temp gauge....
Unless of course the reason for the belt coming off is that your water pump bearing has collapsed and you've dumped half your coolant.