You need to remove the tensioner using the nut on the lhs only, the spring-loaded action of the tensioner is strong and I find it helpful to use a long breaker bar and socket to move it.quote]

I only thought you had to lever the pulley upwards, I have been trying to fit the new belt for the past couple of hours, but just cant seem to get the belt round the last pulley. I run at of oommph.

Any ideas, I have posted similar replies on other threads as this is really bugging me:mad:
 
If you use a socket and breaker bar, or a large adjustable spanner, to "turn" the bolt head on the tensioner anti clockwise it will lift it up, against the spring. Then you can slip the belt in to postion and release the tensioner to sit on the belt.
 
You need to remove the tensioner using the nut on the lhs only, the spring-loaded action of the tensioner is strong and I find it helpful to use a long breaker bar and socket to move it.quote]

I only thought you had to lever the pulley upwards, I have been trying to fit the new belt for the past couple of hours, but just cant seem to get the belt round the last pulley. I run at of oommph.

Any ideas, I have posted similar replies on other threads as this is really bugging me:mad:


To lift the tensioner to put a new belt on, all you do is put a socket on the tensioner pulley nut (not the one that holds the tensioner assembly to the block) and with a long-handled socket driver or breaker bar, lever in an anti-clockwise direction against the spring tension and the pulley will lift, allowing you to fit a new belt.

It's much easier to do than to describe actually.
 
It sounds so easy but is a right bugger, I will try again in the morning leaving the the tensioner pulley as the last one, I think a longer spanner would be helpful to :)

Thanks for the replies

Nigel
 
When you put the rad hoses back make sure they are well away from the pulley. I used zip ties on mine to pull them back.
 
Well, it had to happen. The first breakdown. Driving home yesterday the battery light came on and the power steering disappeared. Limped home for 10 miles as I was in the country with no mobile signal available.

For new readers who may not know, as well as the alternator and power steering you lost the water pump as well. By driving home in this state you were in danger of cooking the cylinder head and causing a much bigger problem than just changing the water pump.
 
Although a testament to the 300's ruggedness (I'm sure they used to reside in a blacksmiths shop) they can still be driven upto 45mphish on easy flat roads, just keep a very good eye on the temp gauge.

The biggest issue of driving with no belt is the fluid in the PAS is now actually working against you, so it's actually harder to steer than if the car had no PAS at all!

1997 Discovery - if you still can't get the belt on working the spare to the top, it may be worth checking you haver the right belt. There are two different lengths used, one is an inch longer than the other. From personal experience, the shorter will so very nearly fit when you need the longer one, you will think you'rre doing something wrong.

Also, you can fit/remove the belt without removing the fan - just 'catch' the belt in the one of the fan blades and turn the fan by hand to pull the belt right round the bottom of the fan, when it gets back to the top pull the bit of belt sticking out of the front of the fan back through to the back and you'll then have your belt round the viscous pulley!
Easier to do than to write...
 
Although a testament to the 300's ruggedness (I'm sure they used to reside in a blacksmiths shop) they can still be driven upto 45mphish on easy flat roads, just keep a very good eye on the temp gauge....

Unless of course the reason for the belt coming off is that your water pump bearing has collapsed and you've dumped half your coolant.
 
Thanks for the response guys, all is fitted with my Dad's a swan neck spanner was the answer, as a regular spanner the belt was jamming against it.

The belt number I got was ERR5911 as I am 90% sure it was the right one for me. Though an extra inch would have helped but may have to big.

Again thanks for the support
 
Unless of course the reason for the belt coming off is that your water pump bearing has collapsed and you've dumped half your coolant.

Which would cause the temp gauge to drop and as you're watching it, you would stop and check!

It was my tensioner that seized and so i had a nice full water jacket around the engine, not ideal admittedly but possible :D
 
DISASTER
i am also doing this job, i have removed the belt adjuster and the water pump pulley, i have also removed all but two of the water pumps bolts this is my problem . Of the three bolts highlighted in It will fit's photo i have removed the middle bottom one but the other two wont budge and the heads of both are now rounded.
What can i do ?
any help much appreciated.
Jamie
 
Many ways ... Mole grips, stillsons, weld a nut on, hammer a socket on, grind them off then mole grips on the bolt stubs, one of those cheap 'grip-all' type wrenches that tightens more the more you push on it .....
 

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