tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I have a unused refurbed alternator which is 13.8 as is the one on my car. Will have a look on tinternet.
Thank you, I have a unused refurbed alternator which is 13.8 as is the one on my car. Will have a look on tinternet.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's a matter of inserting a 1N5401 diode in the right place which will up the output to 14.6 volts, but it's a while since I was modding alternators so the regulators are probably harder to tinker with these days. Any alternator re-conditioner should be able to supply you with a suitable regulatorThank you, I have a unused refurbed alternator which is 13.8 as is the one on my car. Will have a look on tinternet.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Ta KeithIt's a matter of inserting a 1N5401 diode in the right place which will up the output to 14.6 volts, but it's a while since I was modding alternators so the regulators are probably harder to tinker with these days. Any alternator re-conditioner should be able to supply you with a suitable regulator
Thank you, I have a unused refurbed alternator which is 13.8 as is the one on my car. Will have a look on tinternet.
Just get the number from the alternator and make then go on Ebay and get a 14.2 regulator for it, my last one was about £13.00 i think. Will have a look through my Ebay and see if i can find it. If it's a Valeo 105 amp this will fit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/3009...1=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0
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tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Hi,
If you're getting 14,5V at the alternator and 13,5 at the battery, you have a big voltage drop across the main charging circuit. I had something similar and ignored it for so long it set my alternator on fire. The main feed from the alternator runs from the 8mm bolt on the back and down to the positive terminal on the starter. From there, the charge runs back to the battery through the heavy gauge starter cable. To diagnose, start by CAREFULLY clipping a good jumper cable from the alternator output bolt to the battery positive terminal. Do you now get roughly the same voltage across the battery as you get at the alternator? If not, add a second jumper from the engine block to the battery negative terminal. If your alternator and battery are anywhere near OK, you should now have the same voltage at the battery and alternator. Depending on which jumper had the desired effect, you now know where there's a weak connection. Find it and fix it. On mine, it turned out to be the cable between alternator and starter. It's routed quite intricately and re-terminating it under the car was a pain, so I simply unbolted it from the alternator, cut off the cable shoe and insulated the end well. I then fitted a new heavy-gauge cable directly from the alternator output to the battery. No trouble since.
Good luck!
If you're getting 14,5V at the alternator and 13,5 at the battery, you have a big voltage drop across the main charging circuit. I had something similar and ignored it for so long it set my alternator on fire. The main feed from the alternator runs from the 8mm bolt on the back and down to the positive terminal on the starter. From there, the charge runs back to the battery through the heavy gauge starter cable. To diagnose, start by CAREFULLY clipping a good jumper cable from the alternator output bolt to the battery positive terminal. Do you now get roughly the same voltage across the battery as you get at the alternator? If not, add a second jumper from the engine block to the battery negative terminal. If your alternator and battery are anywhere near OK, you should now have the same voltage at the battery and alternator. Depending on which jumper had the desired effect, you now know where there's a weak connection. Find it and fix it. On mine, it turned out to be the cable between alternator and starter. It's routed quite intricately and re-terminating it under the car was a pain, so I simply unbolted it from the alternator, cut off the cable shoe and insulated the end well. I then fitted a new heavy-gauge cable directly from the alternator output to the battery. No trouble since.
Good luck!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Hi Tony, Had a look at the spare , it is a Valeo 95 amp. Will this still fit or will I need verg1060 ? I was thinking before I do anything I will check the output at the alternator and see if there is a drop between alt and battery. have to see what's fitted to the motor as well. Should be the same as the spare, got it on warranty after it threw a Alternator Fault on the dash not long after I bought it. This cleared itself before the replacement arrived and has sat in the garage since.
Hi Tony, Had a look at the spare , it is a Valeo 95 amp. Will this still fit or will I need verg1060 ? I was thinking before I do anything I will check the output at the alternator and see if there is a drop between alt and battery. have to see what's fitted to the motor as well. Should be the same as the spare, got it on warranty after it threw a Alternator Fault on the dash not long after I bought it. This cleared itself before the replacement arrived and has sat in the garage since.
Should be 105 AMP on the diesel. But who knows what Land rover fitted from time to time. There was a A133 of 95 AMP fitted to the classic diesel before the P38 came about, maybe someone stuck you with one of those. They would certainly have been 13.8 set point. The one i posted should fit that, compare what is fitted with the photo. Only difference was the one fitted was potted and the new one wasn't. It has been on for almost two years now with no problems.
landy8088109
New Member
Found the problem with the alternator, traced the wires back and found the earth lead was broken down from the battery to the engine. Repaired it and all charging correctly now thanks for the info
