MaxyMan

MaxyMan

Well-Known Member
Hi all, got an old style heater unit *1986 90* the matrix pipes are disconnected from the main system to get it through mot as they were leaking a lot! The whole matrix inside is bust, what im asking is can I replace the matrix rad Land Rover Defender Heater Matrix Downward Pipes | eBay in the unit or do I have to remove the whole unit and swap it over? I've had a quick look and search aswell. I'm guessing as they sell them individually you can. Drill out rivets and swap over? Someone point me in the right direction. Cheers. :rolleyes:
 
Bit over the top just to change the matrix!
Sharp screw driver and hammer. chisel heads off rivets on top of heater matrix. disconnect heater contorl cable.
Bend up top of heater box (fiddly but doable)
Remove old matrix and slide in new
Bend metal back down and refasten with self tappers.
Reconnect hoses and refill coolant.

Done
Did mine last week 20mins



Dave
 
You could do that but when i changed my heater matrix i had to remove 2 interlocking plates on the bottom of the heater box - that held the bottom of the matrix tight in position.

Removing the heater box and inlet pipe also allowed me to clean em both out and remove the mud that had accumulated.

Daz
 
Removing heater-box and replacing the matrix is simple.

Can't see any reason why you need a second pair of hands, I never have?
Before you start make sure you have all you need to be able to complete the job. The matrix needs to be sealed around the edge to make sure the air flows through it and not around it, heat resistant self adhesive foam rubber is ideal and available very cheaply off the internet. The foam-rubber seals between the inlet duct & heater and also the heater & bulkhead will be shot, don't bother messing around trying to make a seal when new ones are available very cheaply and will ensure heater performance is maintained (no point fixing the heater if the hot air can then escape).
Splitting the heater box is a case of drilling out the rivets. With it apart make sure it is sound & clean as an accumulation of muck at the bottom can cause rot, if holed just plate it.
When you have finished spend 10-minutes making sure all the control cables are adjusted correctly as most complaints about lack of heat are down to poor adjustment. Just because the lever is at the end of its movement, doesn't mean the flap is open / closed so check & adjust.
 
Litch said:
Removing heater-box and replacing the matrix is simple.

Can't see any reason why you need a second pair of hands, I never have?
Click to expand...

The 2nd pair of hands hold the spanner on the bolts in the passenger footwell while you undo the nuts under the heater box - you could do it yourself if your name is mr tickle :rolleyes:

Daz
 
DISCOVERY1-DAZ said:
The 2nd pair of hands hold the spanner on the bolts in the passenger footwell while you undo the nuts under the heater box - you could do it yourself if your name is mr tickle :rolleyes:

Daz
Click to expand...

Obviously mine is because I have done it several times!
Just a case of fixing a spanner into position and then working on the other side. If there is nothing to jam the spanner against then duct tape is your friend.
 
Does anyone know if you can flush the heater matrix through whilst its still in situ.
What I'm think of doing is to disconnect the hoses to the heater then connect a hose pipe and flush the water through. My heater only gets lukewarm after about a 15 minute drive.
I have changed the thermostat. Removed the visco fan and fitted a Kenlowe electric fan. Sealed up the doors to stop any drafts coming through but its still freezing during the winter months. I have also tried a rad muff which didn't seem to make any difference what so ever. I have looked at the Heater box and it looks like a bit of a job to remove the Matrix completely although Litch makes it look easy. Thought I might try flushing before going the whole hog and taking it out completely. Has anyone tried one of these 88 degree Thermostats. Are they any better?
 
mikescuba said:
Does anyone know if you can flush the heater matrix through whilst its still in situ.
Click to expand...

I did it in the vehicle but later took it out and was amazed at the amount of extra ****e that came out when turned upside down and flushed out.


STC952 is the seal between the heater and the bulkhead, for a tenner it's worth changing. They are a bugger to fit back in and often require a couple of bits to be trimmed with a stanley knife to clear the top mounting bracket and the control arm on the side.
 
Last edited:
dkr110 said:
Bit over the top just to change the matrix!
Sharp screw driver and hammer. chisel heads off rivets on top of heater matrix. disconnect heater contorl cable.
Bend up top of heater box (fiddly but doable)
Remove old matrix and slide in new
Bend metal back down and refasten with self tappers.
Reconnect hoses and refill coolant.

Done
Did mine last week 20mins



Dave
Click to expand...

If I did another one, thats how I would do it.
 
mikescuba said:
Does anyone know if you can flush the heater matrix through whilst its still in situ.
What I'm think of doing is to disconnect the hoses to the heater then connect a hose pipe and flush the water through. My heater only gets lukewarm after about a 15 minute drive.
I have changed the thermostat. Removed the visco fan and fitted a Kenlowe electric fan. Sealed up the doors to stop any drafts coming through but its still freezing during the winter months. I have also tried a rad muff which didn't seem to make any difference what so ever. I have looked at the Heater box and it looks like a bit of a job to remove the Matrix completely although Litch makes it look easy. Thought I might try flushing before going the whole hog and taking it out completely. Has anyone tried one of these 88 degree Thermostats. Are they any better?
Click to expand...

Fitting a new heater matrix is so easy to do and cheap too. ;)
 
Thanks Soloby Rod & Boriss113. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and have a go.
The heater Matrix has never been out or renewed since 1990.
 
mikescuba said:
Does anyone know if you can flush the heater matrix through whilst its still in situ.
What I'm think of doing is to disconnect the hoses to the heater then connect a hose pipe and flush the water through. My heater only gets lukewarm after about a 15 minute drive.
I have changed the thermostat. Removed the visco fan and fitted a Kenlowe electric fan. Sealed up the doors to stop any drafts coming through but its still freezing during the winter months. I have also tried a rad muff which didn't seem to make any difference what so ever. I have looked at the Heater box and it looks like a bit of a job to remove the Matrix completely although Litch makes it look easy. Thought I might try flushing before going the whole hog and taking it out completely. Has anyone tried one of these 88 degree Thermostats. Are they any better?
Click to expand...
You can flush the matrix (both directions) in situ but .......

Its not always the sludge INSIDE the matrix that causes the problems. Its the mud and ****e that blocks the fins on the OUTSIDE of the matrix that can only be cleared by taking the heater box out and apart.
It sounds more of a job than it really is.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I tried to take my matrix out and couldn't get it past the turbo pipe so had to put it back together until my new one comes. Just routed one of the cables back into the head. It should come out but mine is 200 tdi conversion so wondered if it is this that makes the difference. Anyone with similar issues.
 
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