Are we sharing a veh? We have the same CD changer issue and the same windscreen :eek:

Seems like it, but then again they are Range Rovers....

Everyone moans about build quality....but if you ask me, the factory are spot on as everyone has the exact same failures, so it is not the build that is questionable, it is the parts quality and the design!!!
 
would a continuitey test with a multimeter work on the screen? or will the element be too fine?
You can test it with an ohm meter. Electric screens are a 5 minute wonder, they all fail as soon as the manufacturers warranty expires if not before.
Mines a P38 but it's the same, I have an 1" wide strip on the passenger side and a half inch on the drivers side.
Waste of time IMO, I just start the car 5 minutes before I go out and it's ready to go and warm. I realise that this is not a viable option for those of you with gas guzzling V8's:rolleyes::D:D:D
 
Seems like it, but then again they are Range Rovers....

Everyone moans about build quality....but if you ask me, the factory are spot on as everyone has the exact same failures, so it is not the build that is questionable, it is the parts quality and the design!!!
LR buy their parts to a price not to a quality standard:(
 
ok, just opened the box under the bonnet to find the relay expecting a nice laid out box with a diagram like the p38. noowhat a mess anyone know which relay is the windsreen heater?
 
Heated Screen Relay is behind the Dashboard side fascia....the only referenec I have says Drivers side...but the piccy looks like it is from a LHD car....so it is either behind the passanger side dash side fascia or the drivers...

As attached.....so put the top back on the Engine ECU box!!!
 

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i have ohms on my meter what would be the procedure? sorry electronics arnt really my area
Disconnect the screen, meter on 1K ohms or thereabouts and see if you get continuity.:) Then put the meter on DC 20 volts and put it across the wires or wire to chassis, switch the heater on and see if you get 12 volts.
 
cheers datatek, at the risk of sounding like an idiot, my multimeter as an audable continuity setting, will this not also do it?
 
ok , looks like its the screen after all. got 12v at the screen, but no change in reading on ohms test. stayed at 1 which i presume is an infinate reading which i should get?
 
ok , looks like its the screen after all. got 12v at the screen, but no change in reading on ohms test. stayed at 1 which i presume is an infinate reading which i should get?
Sounds like the screen to me...not sure what the Ohms should be...can be worked out from the fuse rating 30A which also runs the Heated Jet Washers....0 reading is continuity and no resistance, 1 reading is open circuit

So lets say an 80% capacity = 24A at full load

2/3rds for the HFS = 16A

Resistance = Volts / Amps

= 0.75 Ohms

(all figures are VERY approximate - need to know the true current draw of a fully working heated screen I just guessed)
 
on another point, im suprised the light stays on, if the circuit is broken should it not go out after a few secs? and shouldnt it log an open circuit fault? oh and for referance the relay is passenger side , i can hear it switching over.
 
i see. i think. so as my screen reading is 1 ive got an open circuit which means broken element , right?
Your 1 reading would depend on what ohms range you have selected, if you have selected a 10 ohms range a reading of 1 might be correct. Open circuit on my cheapo meter is 9999 and 0.0 for a short circuit.
 
i selected 2k is this 20 ohm? im guessing. i get a reading of 1 when i turn it on ,if i touch th probes together i get 0.00
 

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