Hi all,

Sorry to raise this again but I've done some more testing this morning and wondered if anyone with any knowledge could advise? The first thing I noticed is that the pillar cover has been off before - suggesting someone has attempted a fix before.

I've tested the volts to the screen - all good - reading was 13.38v when switched on, 0v when switch off. So this rules out fuses / relay.

Tested resistance of screen - appears good. Resistance is there 126kohms (if I setup the multimeter properly - it's from the 90's so every chance I didn't - but there was resistance)

This is the bit that's I really need advise on:

There is a third wire connected to the screen, in which a single positive wire goes into it. From the wire that goes into it I can't get a volt reading off this at all. I've done a continuity test on the windscreen connection to see what it's connected to and it appears to be connected to other live connector on the second (bigger) windscreen connection - there is very little / no resistance between these tow connectors. (The attached picture may chow this a little cleared - the 0 is the resistance test, so shows the connectors are joined and offering little/no resistance).

Any help would be appreciated as ever

Cheers
Cheers
 

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Dopey said:
Or.... you could do what some dirty rascal did, hit the screen with a rubber hammer, and tell the insurance you hit a pheasant on the motorway... so I have been told that is...
Click to expand...

Dopey said:
Or.... you could do what some dirty rascal did, hit the screen with a rubber hammer, and tell the insurance you hit a pheasant on the motorway... so I have been told that is...
Click to expand...
Can I have my hammer back if you've finished with it please.;):D
 
Walshie1987 said:
Hi all,

Sorry to raise this again but I've done some more testing this morning and wondered if anyone with any knowledge could advise? The first thing I noticed is that the pillar cover has been off before - suggesting someone has attempted a fix before.

I've tested the volts to the screen - all good - reading was 13.38v when switched on, 0v when switch off. So this rules out fuses / relay.

Tested resistance of screen - appears good. Resistance is there 126kohms (if I setup the multimeter properly - it's from the 90's so every chance I didn't - but there was resistance)

This is the bit that's I really need advise on:

There is a third wire connected to the screen, in which a single positive wire goes into it. From the wire that goes into it I can't get a volt reading off this at all. I've done a continuity test on the windscreen connection to see what it's connected to and it appears to be connected to other live connector on the second (bigger) windscreen connection - there is very little / no resistance between these tow connectors. (The attached picture may chow this a little cleared - the 0 is the resistance test, so shows the connectors are joined and offering little/no resistance).

Any help would be appreciated as ever

Cheers
Cheers
Click to expand...
126K ohms, not checked one but I wouldn't expect to see more than about 200 ohms, what you have is virtually an open circuit. The must be 3 wires to the screen, LH positive, RH positive and earth, possibly 2 earth wires.
 
Walshie1987 said:
Ah sorry, just checked it was ohms not K ohms.

So that seems normal too?

Cheers
Chris
Click to expand...
Just done the sums, that still sounds high. With the wires connected to the screen and the screen switched on, what voltage do you have each side between the positive and the screen earth point?
 
But when I test like this and turn on I get 13.5v on the single wire
 

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Walshie1987 said:
But when I test like this and turn on I get 13.5v on the single wire
Click to expand...
So with no load you have 13,5 volts but as soon as you apply the load you have no volts. Therefore either the relay, fuse fuse box or connection to the fuse box has a high resistance connection. For starters, swap the relay.
 
Here's the ohm reading on my prehistoric multi meter, between the positive and earth on the RH side
 

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Sorry, so no load when switch off on any wires.

When unplugged 13.5v on the double connector positive, nothing on the single wire.

When plugged in, and switched on, 13.5v on the single wire, 0v on the double connector.

I think they are all driven off 1 relay in the l322?

Will try the basics like relay etc.

Cheers
Chris
 
Walshie1987 said:
Sorry, so no load when switch off on any wires.

When unplugged 13.5v on the double connector positive, nothing on the single wire.

When plugged in, and switched on, 13.5v on the single wire, 0v on the double connector.

I think they are all driven off 1 relay in the l322?

Will try the basics like relay etc.

Cheers
Chris
Click to expand...
Usually 2 relays, one for each side. the single wire you keep referring should should I think be the earth?
 
Yeah maybe, deceiving though as it's brown ....stupid comment, just realised it's a car so brown doesn't equal live :confused: too used to house electrics
 
Sorry mate last question, where are the relays, ive been checking the rear panel for some reason. Are they in the front box?
 
Walshie1987 said:
Yeah maybe, deceiving though as it's brown ....stupid comment, just realised it's a car so brown doesn't equal live :confused: too used to house electrics
Click to expand...
If you are a sparks, don't come to France, any colour apart from blue or green/yellow is live in domestic or industrial wiring:eek::D:D:D
 
Datatek said:
If you are a sparks, don't come to France, any colour apart from blue or green/yellow is live in domestic or industrial wiring:eek::D:D:D
Click to expand...
And the live and negative can switch! Hence the double sided RCD.. get your own earth!!
 
Mark Piercy said:
And the live and negative can switch! Hence the double sided RCD.. get your own earth!!
Click to expand...
Not so, it's historical. The supply in France used to be 2 phases out of 3 for domestic use giving 220 volts across the 2 phases, so both conductors were live. When the system was modernised it became 220 and later 240 volts per phase and the neutral was introduced, however double pole switches and isolators were retained and when MCBs were introduced the regs required that they were also double pole. Many French Sparkies still ignore the regs and you may find the neutral on either side of a socket:eek::D:D:D
 
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