Doubt if they would be legal on your disco, got to have self levelling-approved wash/wipe, fitted as standard. Might get away with them on additional lights (for off road use only officer, honest)
 
If you use it offroad I wouldnt bother as I get through several pairs of headlight bulbs each year due to water getting in the headlight and blowing them :doh:
 
Fitted 8000 rated HIDS to my disco both driving and high beams, gives them a tint of blue.
Road legal and driving visibility is 10x better, dark country roads with high beam is like day driving.

Not everyone's cuppa but I certainly would never go back to normal xenon lights now.
decent kits will cost you £60-70 each with decent ballast units.
 
Them's not HID's - they're just blue common-or-garden tungsten lamps, and cheap nasty ones at that...

HID's need a ballast and ignitor to go with em!
 
I was soddin about with my headlights today,
and what shocked me was the powerdrop difference between starting voltage at the battery ( about 14 volts)
and power at the 3 prong headlight plug (about 12.5 volts)
so, can I then assume that the dim dip relay boll-ocks is robbin some volts here?
 
easye1 said:
I was soddin about with my headlights today,
and what shocked me was the powerdrop difference between starting voltage at the battery ( about 14 volts)
and power at the 3 prong headlight plug (about 12.5 volts)
so, can I then assume that the dim dip relay boll-ocks is robbin some volts here?
Click to expand...

Same thing happened with my vw T4 camper. Its common with those and you could buy a wiring kit to sort it.

The reason for the voltage drop is the factory wiring system. As the feed starts from the battery and runs through relays, switches wiring harnesses etc it loses a few volts.

Ideally you want to run your own wiring and a relay to operate the headlights but most dont as its already done.

Read this on another forum:

A drop of 1% in voltage usually results in a drop of around 3.5% in light
output on incadescent bulbs so dropping the voltage from 12 V to 11.5 Volts
will result in around 14.6% drop in the lighting efficiency of the bulbs of
our cars.
But increasing the voltage from 12 Volts to 13.8 (this is usually the
voltage generated by the alternator) will bring an increase of light output
of around 52.5%

Maybe you need something like this?

24zlj5t.jpg


A is the male plug which connects to one of the female plugs of the factory
loom that originaly is fitted to the bulb on the light cluster.
B is for the electric feed and ground wires to be connected to the battery
or alternator
C and D are the new female plugs of the "p&p" loom that are used on the
bulbs
H is the "p&p" loom electronic unit and relay
I is the fuse box of the "p&p" loom
J is the small bag with the tie-raps and connectors for the connection of
wires B to the alternator or battery
E, G and F are the bulbs and light clusters we use here in Greece when we
upgrade the lights on Defender vehicles.

Sorry about the huge picture. Obviously its not my work, its borrowed from another forum.
 
thanks big ginga,
I recon I can copy that quite easily, and/or adapt to suit.
need only purchase new 2 female headlight plugs, and use soldered spade terminals to tap into existing headlight feed on hand made loom.
might need 4 relays, but got them from previous cars I`ve stripped before running into scrappers.
food for thought eh...
 
easye1 said:
thanks big ginga,
I recon I can copy that quite easily, and/or adapt to suit.
need only purchase new 2 female headlight plugs, and use soldered spade terminals to tap into existing headlight feed on hand made loom.
might need 4 relays, but got them from previous cars I`ve stripped before running into scrappers.
food for thought eh...
Click to expand...

No probs. ;)
 
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