kevinp

Member
finally brought myself a hawkeye,read the fault log and 3 codes i could do with some help with
3016 inlet temp high (did not clear with other faults)
3032 inlet air temp (said active)
3030 air flow higg
any answers gratefully accepted as the fault i have is doing my head in.
 
do you still have EGR?...cos if yes there's the problem as the MAF which gave you the air flow fault manages the EGR and the MAP/IAT(inlet air temp) in the inlet manifold got high temp reading which means excess of exhaust gasses.

if you have the EGR bypassed but haven't read codes untill now clear them, drive the car a day or so then read again cos the codes might be hystorical and not be present anymore.

though for that active code there might be a problem with the IAT side of MAP/IAT itself then you'll need a new sensor
 
thanks for that, I removed the egr ages ago ,my problem is intermittent usually when cold I have no power for pulling away you have to floor the accelerator and wait for the revs to build ,once it gets to a certain point it takes of then change gear no power wait.when it does this its like the fuel is restricted because normally she smokes if you boot it but not a bit when playing up.long way round of asking if the iat is playing up would it put you in limp home
 
read live data with hawkeye, readind should be as follows:

MAF(air flow) = 55-60 at idle growing with revs up to 600 or above at 3000+rpm

AAP(ambient pressure) = real ambient pressure on barometer in kPa, around 100 must drop up to 2 units to 3000+rpm, more decreasing of that value related to the acceleration should indicate that the air beyond the filter is less than required.

AAT(ambient temp) -only Eu3/15-16P engines = real ambient temp on thermometer

MAP(manifold absoolute prssure) = with AAP at idle growing to 230 at full load

IAT(inlet air temp) = AAT + 10 to 30 depending on outside temp, engine coolant temp and boost(meaured with coolant gauge at middle)

COOLANT TEMP = 70 - 115 gauge stays at the midddle, the gauge will go to red zone only at 120 and the electric cooling(aircon) fan kicks in at 110 and stops at 105

FUEL TEMP = around 10 less than coolant temp

THROTTLE
ACCEL. WAY 1 - about 0.3V with the pedal released, about 4.7V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 2 - about 4.7V with the pedal released, about 0.3V with pedal to the maximum position
ACCEL. WAY 3 – this track must have values very near to the second track.(only 15P-16P engines)
ACCEL. SUPPLY – this value must stay between 4.9 a 5.1

IDLE ESPEED = 750rpm

IDLE SPEED ERROR – This is a calculated value that shows the difference between the idle speed and the real drive demand
the MAF reading might be affected by old crankcase breather(depression controll) valve so if you know it's old better replace it
 
replaced the valve with last service, will check live data and thanks for your help will let you know what I find
 
checked live data ,all seemed okay but as driveing iinlet temp went from 19degrees to119 degrees then dropped to minus36 so it looks like I need a map sensor but would like to change plug as well anyone know were to get one?
 
you can't get such plug as a spare only if you go to a scrapyard, it's part of the engine harness... as you already have plug issues at MAP i presume there will be issues with other plugs too or wiring so if you can afford replace the whole engine harness, on an old car is a good move anyway, i didnt have big issues with it, everything worked just that i didnt like the ideea that it's 12 years old and full of oil from the injector harness and bit the bullet for a new one... i can tell that the engine started and ran much better after that
 
new map never been sweeter been chasing this problem for ages wish i had bought hawkeye ayear ago also seems to have reduced smoke on acceleration thanks for your input sierrafly
 

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