sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Paul D said:
If the disc is fine then yeah, just fit new, correct, pads ..

You can't say the MOT tester was blind, he has no need to check proper fitment of parts if they work correctly to the book. I'd suggest more likely that you're blind, and daft, for not doing more regular maintenance and for not doing anything about checking them between October and now, or whenever you got the vehicle!

I didnt get the vehicle til January and when I say he was blind I mean by the rust. A lot of stuff is new to me and I am slowly learning. I didnt think the pads were right but who am I to question when I know no better? My mate is or was an mot tester and just by briefly looking at the vehicle the other week he pointed out several things that need attention which says to me one of them doesnt know what they are doing, add that to the fact that previous owners have bodged bits...

Paul D · Apr 23, 2014

Don't sweat it ... Jan to the end of April is a long time not to do anything to such a vehicle though .. knowledgeable or not!

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Larry365 said:
The other thing I would suggest is getting a torque wrench and setting up those nuts properly. First nut (adjusting nut) tighten to 61nm, back of 90° then tighten 4nm. Fit lock washer then tighten second nut (locknut) to 61 then bend tabs. Having the correct float will greatly increase the life of your componants.

I have a torque wrench but my hub nut has no way of attaching one to it

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Paul D said:
Don't sweat it ... Jan to the end of April is a long time not to do anything to such a vehicle though .. knowledgeable or not!

I have been doing jobs as and when they need doing?

Paul D · Apr 23, 2014

To be honest, most torque wrenches that read to 60Nm won't read to 4Nm .. I tighten them, whilst rotating the hub, tightly, back off to loose, rotate the thing whilst tightening tight again, then back off and hand tighten. Then fit the tab wahser and outer nut then lock them over.

I have a Hub nut spanner and a 52mm socket but the torque wrench is useless below about 20 ish Nm ..

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

What are these integrated wear sensor things on the pads?

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Its ok, sorted out with the wear sensor, just got to cut it off. Picking them up tomorrow

Larry365 · Apr 23, 2014

Paul D said:
To be honest, most torque wrenches that read to 60Nm won't read to 4Nm .. I tighten them, whilst rotating the hub, tightly, back off to loose, rotate the thing whilst tightening tight again, then back off and hand tighten. Then fit the tab wahser and outer nut then lock them over.

I have a Hub nut spanner and a 52mm socket but the torque wrench is useless below about 20 ish Nm ..

This is true. I have two torque wrenches

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Here they are as taken off. No idea why they are fronts and rears together

DiscoPol · Apr 23, 2014

They aren't rear pads, they are fronts, just not the same as the others, get em changed and all will be well.

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Aah bloody hell

, ill replace them anyway

DiscoPol · Apr 23, 2014

Rear pads are considerably smaller than fronts, the friction surface is the same ish on those pads outs simply a different style of pad, maybe for a RRC or something, ounce used both styles on my disco and they are fine, just shouldn't be mixed.

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Nice one cheers

nickp3003 · Apr 23, 2014

sorry if im wrong but to clear things up I think....

if your calliper has 2 brake pipes, its the older model and you should have two pads with that have the single sticky out bit at top in the middle, the pins have clips that push down on the pads to hold them in place and the bottom of the calliper is shaped so they cant fall out.

if your calliper has 1 brake pipe then it is the later model, the pins push through holes on each side of the pad at the top.

scary to think you had two different types there!

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

Ok, now youve confused me. Mine has 2 pipes so which pads should I have?

jamesmartin · Apr 23, 2014

sergeantcookie said:
Theres what mine look like. Anyway I think I have found the culprit for the noise...

Looks like the guard was rubbing up against the disk. Bent it out the way as best as I could, put it all back together then promptly reversed out of my drive and straight in to my wheelie bin (its bin day) knocking all the contents all over the road . I thought it was some bits falling off . Took it for a quick spin and no grinding noise (for now)

ive seen quite a few with the wrong type of pad fitted as i mentioned in earlier post but never a mix of the two types

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

These are the ones I have ordered. Are they correct?

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

nickp3003 said:
if your calliper has 2 brake pipes, its the older model and you should have two pads with that have the single sticky out bit at top in the middle, the pins have clips that push down on the pads to hold them in place and the bottom of the calliper is shaped so they cant fall out.

Not seen any clips?

jamesmartin · Apr 23, 2014

sergeantcookie said:
These are the ones I have ordered. Are they correct?

no calipers with solid pinds have pads with 2 holes ,calipers with split pinjs and spring clips have center tab pads

sergeantcookie · Apr 23, 2014

jamesmartin said:
no calipers with solid pinds have pads with 2 holes ,calipers with split pinjs and spring clips have center tab pads

Sorry if I sound thick but I dont understand?

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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