Swapping it into another vehicle could rule out if it's the ECU at fault, but would obviously need some messing about to be done (and would need to be same spec vehicle).

I was thinking more along the lines of being able to try and read live data, fire injectors etc.
 
So the ckp turned up today horrible little fiddly job went to start it still nothing :-( so got a fuel pump swapped it over it took an eternity of cranking with the foot hard down but eventually it started and after a few minutes of what sounded like air clearing in the system it keeps restarting fine so fingers crossed!

I had the diagnostic on it giving me live data, and this really confused me. If you plug in the maf there is no reading in live data it just says "0" but if you unplug it suddenly it starts giving a reading. very weird!
 
That means the MAF is screwed I believe. If you unplug it the ECU uses default readings. You should notice it drives better unplugged if it is goosed.
 
Gregja said:
I had the diagnostic on it giving me live data, and this really confused me. If you plug in the maf there is no reading in live data it just says "0" but if you unplug it suddenly it starts giving a reading. very weird!
Click to expand...


Dead simple. It's either :

1. the wiring from the MAF plug to the ECU - easy to check with a continuity test on a multi-meter, or

2. MAF is foobar'd and needs replacing. Peeps will tell you to only buy a Siemenns/Land Rover one but I've used cheapies from Ebay on several of my TD5's and they all worked perfectly.


Good luck

Dave
 
Gregja said:
So the ckp turned up today horrible little fiddly job went to start it still nothing :-( so got a fuel pump swapped it over it took an eternity of cranking with the foot hard down but eventually it started and after a few minutes of what sounded like air clearing in the system it keeps restarting fine so fingers crossed!

I had the diagnostic on it giving me live data, and this really confused me. If you plug in the maf there is no reading in live data it just says "0" but if you unplug it suddenly it starts giving a reading. very weird!
Click to expand...

0 shows a failure, unplugged the ECU uses a 'backup strategy' and therefore you'd see figures - but this will likely lead to increased fuel consumption. Replace the MAF with a quality OEM unit (VDO).
 
Nice one hopefully then I might regain some performance as its as flat as a pancake right now :) edit: I just unplugged the maf and cleared the codes and in live data the phantom readings have disappeared it just reads 0 like when it's plugged in. Does a new maf really make a big difference in performance?
 
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Update: So I replaced the maf and it did make a noticeable difference, even better after a clean it now sits around 48-50 on idle. If this one ever packs up il make sure I get a new one but for now I'm happy.

Last Saturday wasn't such a good day. After swapping the fuel pump last week the high pressure line popped out whilst Sat at some traffic lights right in front of two police men on motorbikes. You can imagine their response. So I get it off the road and investigate the sudden diesel waterfall I now have from the fuel tank. At no point did it cut out might I ad. Anyway a traffic cop turned up and my heart sank I thought he was going to take a right dim view on the situation.

What a sound bloke he was! I showed him the cause and remedy to my massive diesel leak and he was happy enough with the situation. Then the conversation soon got onto the wheels... He showed me a section in the vosa book which relates to spray suppression on cars. He said my wheel arches should cover enough of the tyre to reduce spray and his advice was to fit rubber matting just to extend enough as to stop water spraying upwards.

He reckoned rubber was better for off roading as it won't break which I agree with as I'm sure do you lot. So he turned out to be a bit of a landy nut and seemed to know his stuff. Then the conversation went into the 7 seats and coils on the back. I said it has never had air on the back and he said it wouldn't have been a 7 seater from new. My insurance know it's a 7 seater because I told them. If the worst were to ever happen and I was in a serious accident have I do e enough by notifying my insurance or am I actually driving around illegally?
 
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From my research on the subject (not stating as 100% fact, just what I've read) the D2 at launch didn't have type approval for seven seaters on coil springs. Later on however they did gain type approval, so some rolled out the factory with seven seats and coil springs.

Land Rover part numbers RKB000340 & RKB000350 are stated as "SPRING-COIL, GREEN / GREY, REAR, RH/LH, HEAVY DUTY, 7 SEATS, RHD"

You've told the insurance company so done the right thing. Most don't give a **** anyway. We've got two D2s in the family, me and my Dad are both insurance brokers, both D2s are seven seaters converted to coils and it doesn't bother me one bit.
 
I think it would be more of an issue if you didn't have the correct 7 seater coil springs on.
 
Nice one Orch put my mind at rest.. When I find the log book I will check if it says 5 or 7 seats as I can't remember.
 
Well it's business as usual, today the gearbox temperature light came on whilst driving in 4th at around 30mph it's a manual and all I can see online relates to the automatic gearbox. Does anyone have any suggestions apart from Google lol. Which by the way I have done albeit at the side of the road on my phone :-/
 
Faulty temp sensor?

Why not plug into nanocom/Hawkeye? Maybe that lamp hax hidden meanings other than just temperature?
 
I have read the codes and it's just the usual ac clutch and egr valve I'm forming the opinion that it's the transfer box as it is quite noisy when revving around 1800-2300rpm it's always done it but I suppose dropping the fluid won't harm for a start
 
I dropped the oil out of the transfer box and even though there was about 1 ltr inside it wasn't too bad colour wise and didn't look burnt. Anyway I put fresh ep90 in it and the light flickered for a few miles then went out and so far hasn't come back on :-/
 
Gregja said:
I dropped the oil out of the transfer box and even though there was about 1 ltr inside it wasn't too bad colour wise and didn't look burnt. Anyway I put fresh ep90 in it and the light flickered for a few miles then went out and so far hasn't come back on :-/
Click to expand...

You do realise that the std. transfer box takes over 2ltrs?
 
Yes I realised it was very low whether it has suffered as a result of this only time can tell :-/
 
The car seems to be ok since changing the transfer box oil. So today I have been using my favorite tool... The Angle Grinder, The departure angle has now been addressed and all I need are some Jate Rings on the chassis.

IMG_20150222_003550_zpskmqkm2fz.jpg
 
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Indeed Orch! Towbar, Bumper and Spare wheel gone it looks a lot neater now. Eventually I'm going to fit some box section to replace the bumper. It's not a priority though 1.667 transfer box is :)
 
Here is a nice little project I did yesterday, because rear bumpers are so 2014 I decided to remove it, this has its obvious drawbacks. Mainly the lights, lurking in my garage I had a spare Hella Comet 550 off my Range Rover and so I thought surely I can jigery poke the lights. This is what I came up with, I was going to get a Wipac work light but this does the job and it was free :) So the old reverse lights are now the indicators and the spare Hella 550 is now the reverse light. The pics aren't the best I'm afraid but it is very effective and in pitch black it's like have headlights on the back :p

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IMAG1391_1_zpsi7uzpkb2.jpg
 
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