Do hope the wife will be helping you, e.g. buttering tiles with adhesive, if you do it that way, cutting if she is happy with that etc etc.So it could be "Game On" this weekend?
But apparently I am tiling the utility room.
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BikerB
Well-Known Member
I had a late MG Midget and the later 1500 spits are where this engine came from as part of BL's standardisation. It was horrible compared to the A series version. I have a project RWA A series Midget in bits at the moment and will eventually put it back together. I always thought the later 1500 Spit too effeminate, the earlier Spits were much more muscular and better looking.From memory the earlier spits had 1300 engines but yes the last ones had 1500 s.
Many people reckon the mk3 was the bees knees. I've only worked on a mate's 1500.
Right having checked yes, it did go from 1200 to 1300 to 1500. I thought maybe the 1200 was an A series but apparently it was made by Standard.
Triumph Spitfire - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
AFAIK Spits were never fitted with an A series engine in any of their incarnations.
As I said, I didn't know about A series in spits but I was pretty sure they were in Midgets.
You are totally right about the last Spit being gutless.
"The engine was also detuned to meet new emissions regulations. With the overall weight also increasing to 1,717 lb (779 kg) performance dropped, with 0 to 60 mph (0 to 97 km/h) now in 15.8 seconds and top speed reduced to 90 mph (140 km/h)."
KISSMYAURA
Well-Known Member
1296gt engine
Some progress, but lots more to do.
I got it to start readily (with some choke or it wouldn't run on). I kept it on choke until it stopped dying W/O choke and then let it warm up to normal operating temp. I adjusted the idle screw to set it to run at c.1,000. I set the timing to about 8° BTDC with a strobe at this "wobbly" 1,000 rpm.
I would have run it up to 4,000 RPM but I was on my own and I could not get the idle screw to go anywhere remotely near to 4,000 so as to see the max advance of the dizzy weights. So I just put the vacuum advance line on the dizzy for now.
So it starts and can be made to run (which is good, and a real bit of progress).
But, it does wander up and down around this 1,000 RPM and isn't rock solid/steady like I think it should be.
This could (of course) be because the Carb is worn and leaking air in, and while carb cleaner sprayed around the inlet manifold might show a result, the fact that there is no air-filter in place and I would like to keep my eyebrows is putting me off that idea.
So perhaps I should stop trying to get perfection and make sure that this isn't a leaky-Carb issue by applying my carb rebuild kit next.
That's all, I hope you have had a lovely day.
I got it to start readily (with some choke or it wouldn't run on). I kept it on choke until it stopped dying W/O choke and then let it warm up to normal operating temp. I adjusted the idle screw to set it to run at c.1,000. I set the timing to about 8° BTDC with a strobe at this "wobbly" 1,000 rpm.
I would have run it up to 4,000 RPM but I was on my own and I could not get the idle screw to go anywhere remotely near to 4,000 so as to see the max advance of the dizzy weights. So I just put the vacuum advance line on the dizzy for now.
So it starts and can be made to run (which is good, and a real bit of progress).
But, it does wander up and down around this 1,000 RPM and isn't rock solid/steady like I think it should be.
This could (of course) be because the Carb is worn and leaking air in, and while carb cleaner sprayed around the inlet manifold might show a result, the fact that there is no air-filter in place and I would like to keep my eyebrows is putting me off that idea.
So perhaps I should stop trying to get perfection and make sure that this isn't a leaky-Carb issue by applying my carb rebuild kit next.
That's all, I hope you have had a lovely day.
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I took my life (and the lives of other?) in my hands and drove the car over to my son's place.
It wasn't a pleasant little journey. She didn't want to idle without a bit of choke and under load it was pre-firing/spitting and popping thru the intake manifold. Clearly not happy. So I'd guess the timing is way too advanced when the vacuum advance kicks in. As I said yesterday, I was unable to check the timing at 4,000 RPM. I will wind the dizzy CCW a bit and measure the idle timing then have another little jaunt tomorrow and see what improvement it makes. Not particularly scientific but it will have to do.
It wasn't a pleasant little journey. She didn't want to idle without a bit of choke and under load it was pre-firing/spitting and popping thru the intake manifold. Clearly not happy. So I'd guess the timing is way too advanced when the vacuum advance kicks in. As I said yesterday, I was unable to check the timing at 4,000 RPM. I will wind the dizzy CCW a bit and measure the idle timing then have another little jaunt tomorrow and see what improvement it makes. Not particularly scientific but it will have to do.
I had one of my "All thumbs & no brain" fiddles with it this afternoon and I have decided that I am working with too many variables at once. So yes, I think you are right @marjon .... it is going to be carb out & rebuild with the kit as the next step. That should at least baseline the carb from a leaks and "should be good" point of view. Although, while I am at it I might change the needle for one that the WIN-SU program recommends instead of what is in there at present. I hope herself won't mind me taking over the dining room table.
Do you know what’s in there nowI had one of my "All thumbs & no brain" fiddles with it this afternoon and I have decided that I am working with too many variables at once. So yes, I think you are right @marjon .... it is going to be carb out & rebuild with the kit as the next step. That should at least baseline the carb from a leaks and "should be good" point of view. Although, while I am at it I might change the needle for one that the WIN-SU program recommends instead of what is in there at present. I hope herself won't mind me taking over the dining room table.
.J
You know what I want to say, so I am not going to say it! (Re the carb rebuild.)I had one of my "All thumbs & no brain" fiddles with it this afternoon and I have decided that I am working with too many variables at once. So yes, I think you are right @marjon .... it is going to be carb out & rebuild with the kit as the next step. That should at least baseline the carb from a leaks and "should be good" point of view. Although, while I am at it I might change the needle for one that the WIN-SU program recommends instead of what is in there at present. I hope herself won't mind me taking over the dining room table.
But I have to confess that now you have got it running, if I were you I'd get to the bottom of the smell of petrol because I seriously don't think that is a carb problem. Especially as it is behaving as if it is running weak. If the jet needle was stuck down it would be coughing and spitting and excess petrol would be coming out somewhere, can't remember on HIFs, where but on SUs previous to HIFs there was a little hole at the top of the float chamber. Standard needle is BDL although I appreciate it has been skimmed.
I hope it sorts it out to an extent.
But you are totally right that you cannot tune a car properly unless you only work on one variable at a time.
It doesn't mean that you won't revisit each one again, but setting each one to its basic position gives you the chance to then fiddle with each one seeing what improves it.
(I'd also have started with the tappets but then you may well have done that. )
Best of luck, you sure as heck cannot make it any worse!!!
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I know what you mean, the stink of petrol is pretty fierce but... The HIF44 has an overflow pipe and it is plumbed to some escape piping and nothing is coming out of there at all that I can see. Normally that overflow would only occur IF the float/valve has failed so the rebuild will automatically sort that one out if it is one of the issues. Tappets? Yes, possibly an issue and maybe before I pull the carb I can run it up to warm and then check/set them in advance of the rebuild. I think there are both carburetion and timing issues TBH but I have messed with BOTH now so baselining the carb with a rebuild is no bad thing. We do know it will fire and run with the current ignition timing (but only starts under choke, and doesn't run well under load).You know what I want to say, so I am not going to say it! (Re the carb rebuild.)
But I have to confess that now you have got it running, if I were you I'd get to the bottom of the smell of petrol because I seriously don't think that is a carb problem. Especially as it is behaving as if it is running weak. If the jet needle was stuck down it would be coughing and spitting and excess petrol would be coming out somewhere, can't remember on HIFs, where but on SUs previous to HIFs there was a little hole at the top of the float chamber. Standard needle is BDL although I appreciate it has been skimmed.
I hope it sorts it out to an extent.
But you are totally right that you cannot tune a car properly unless you only work on one variable at a time.
It doesn't mean that you won't revisit each one again, but setting each one to its basic position gives you the chance to then fiddle with each one seeing what improves it.
(I'd also have started with the tappets but then you may well have done that. )
Best of luck, you sure as heck cannot make it any worse!!!
I will get there and I do appreciate all the advice and encouragement.
I did have a look earlier and I think it was a BBD (hard to see, so I'm not sure).Do you know what’s in there now
J
Just checked as I always did the tappets on both A and B series engines cold. And yes the consensus is to do them cold. Preferably after the car has "rested" overnight.I know what you mean, the stink of petrol is pretty fierce but... The HIF44 has an overflow pipe and it is plumbed to some escape piping and nothing is coming out of there at all that I can see. Normally that overflow would only occur IF the float/valve has failed so the rebuild will automatically sort that one out if it is one of the issues. Tappets? Yes, possibly an issue and maybe before I pull the carb I can run it up to warm and then check/set them in advance of the rebuild. I think there are both carburetion and timing issues TBH but I have messed with BOTH now so baselining the carb with a rebuild is no bad thing. We do know it will fire and run with the current ignition timing (but only starts under choke, and doesn't run well under load).
I will get there and I do appreciate all the advice and encouragement.
Me being OCD. Once I have tooned my B series on my Marlin, I use my compression tester to balance the pistons, by slightly altering the tappets. Yep, it is a fiddle and unnecessary but it does make it sound nice and run really smoothly. And yes I don't know anyone else who does that. Probably a total waste of time as it doesn't take into account things like bore wear etc. But it amuses me. I only do it to adjust compression up, never down.
I can see that others have posted while I have been typing so I wouldn't be surprised if they too comment on temp and tappet!
My Marlin often stinks of petrol and it is purely down to an ill-fitting sender unit. I had to have a new tank made and the idiots who made it, apart from putting the mounting points on the bottom when they should have been on the top, also didn't make a good job of the sender mount.
I'd go over the tank very carefully looking for pinholes, and obs the sender unit. Then check the pipe from back to front especially where there are clips. It is a shame petrol evaporates and leaves little sign. Maybe easier to see a leak with the engine running.
Then around the pump, looking at hoses and clips. Then where it joins the carb. If it has an inline filter make sure it is plumbed in the right way round. TBH take it off and replace it with a bit of pipe and it'll run fine, SUs are pretty forgiving of that!
Forgive me if you have done all this already.
I have just read something on a forum where it says that it is important to have the right spacing when mounting the pump, so you could look at that too.
This may therefore be of interest, although I know you are not trying to do what the protagonist on the thread is doing.
Classic Mini Fuel Pump - Problems, Questions and Technical
Classic Mini Fuel Pump - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: can the AZX1817 model fuel pump be interchanged for the AZX1818MS on my 1275 engine? Would I need to make any changes to the carb ? codes are the parts from mini spares as I cannot post images on this forum;)
Do hope you find it soon, apart from the obvious risks the smell gets on your nerves even in an open top roadster, on a car with a roof it must be awful.
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Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Did chuckle when you said you all went out in the mini…
Was this for load testing the engine or extra hands to push it off the road??
+1 on car build. It runs so do the next in line. Don’t adjust anything once you touch the carb. You can tell if it has made any difference with the lumpy ness of the tick over/petrol fumes. Don’t think it’s the carb breather pipe,they pee out petrol when the float does not seal.
At least the mini/yourself is getting better each update. You will be ready for summer classic shows soon
Was this for load testing the engine or extra hands to push it off the road??
+1 on car build. It runs so do the next in line. Don’t adjust anything once you touch the carb. You can tell if it has made any difference with the lumpy ness of the tick over/petrol fumes. Don’t think it’s the carb breather pipe,they pee out petrol when the float does not seal.
At least the mini/yourself is getting better each update. You will be ready for summer classic shows soon
I'm surprised that it still has the dizzy weights if it has an electronic ignition system. I have electronic ignition on my old Brit bikes, the advance is governed by a magic box about the size of a fag packet, and the dizzy weights get binned.
Thank you all for your valuable input.
The "perceived wisdom" I had gleaned from watching classic mini tappet setting on t'interweb was if engine is warm set them 12 thou, if engine is cold set them at 11. Now I though metal expanded when it got warm so that seemed the wrong way round to me.
Anyways up, I checked them all and they are a good fit at 12thou' which is what the book says.
So, carb will be coming off tomorrow for a full run in the hot-wash "White Cotton" cycle and then a spell in the bumble-fryer.
No, not really.
I will just be removing it and taking lots of "what it should look like" pictures before stripping it down fully.
Cleaning will be in a bowl with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush, followed by an attack with some "Peek" polish and buffing wheels on all the external bits but just a wipe over with a soft cloth and some meths (If I haven't finished it all tonight that is) on the vacuum chamber and piston. It shouldn't take all day (unless the cleaning takes lot longer than I hope).
Callers at the door today (Amazon Delivery, Window cleaner etc.) have commented on what a lovely condition the car is in.
The "perceived wisdom" I had gleaned from watching classic mini tappet setting on t'interweb was if engine is warm set them 12 thou, if engine is cold set them at 11. Now I though metal expanded when it got warm so that seemed the wrong way round to me.
Anyways up, I checked them all and they are a good fit at 12thou' which is what the book says.
So, carb will be coming off tomorrow for a full run in the hot-wash "White Cotton" cycle and then a spell in the bumble-fryer.
No, not really.
I will just be removing it and taking lots of "what it should look like" pictures before stripping it down fully.
Cleaning will be in a bowl with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush, followed by an attack with some "Peek" polish and buffing wheels on all the external bits but just a wipe over with a soft cloth and some meths (If I haven't finished it all tonight that is
) on the vacuum chamber and piston. It shouldn't take all day (unless the cleaning takes lot longer than I hope). Callers at the door today (Amazon Delivery, Window cleaner etc.) have commented on what a lovely condition the car is in.
Yes, my disinformation there. It is an electronic dizzy (no contact breaking points just magnetic pick-up) Powerspark 65DM4 but it still has a primary and secondary spring and vacuum advance etc.
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Thank you all for your valuable input.
The "perceived wisdom" I had gleaned from watching classic mini tappet setting on t'interweb was if engine is warm set them 12 thou, if engine is cold set them at 11. Now I though metal expanded when it got warm so that seemed the wrong way round to me.
Anyways up, I checked them all and they are a good fit at 12thou' which is what the book says.
So, carb will be coming off tomorrow for a full run in the hot-wash "White Cotton" cycle and then a spell in the bumble-fryer.
No, not really.
Yes, my disinformation there. It is an electronic dizzy (no contact breaking points just magnetic pick-up) but it still has a primary and secondary spring and vacuum advance etc.
Don't know why the first part of my answer has Dan Clarke as its heading!!I will just be removing it and taking lots of "what it should look like" pictures before stripping it down fully.
Cleaning will be in a bowl with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush, followed by an attack with some "Peek" polish and buffing wheels on all the external bits but just a wipe over with a soft cloth and some meths (If I haven't finished it all tonight that is
Callers at the door today (Amazon Delivery, Window cleaner etc.) have commented on what a lovely condition the car is in.
Good for you!
Once you get it apart the needle will be much easier to see and its letter (and number) code visible, I am interested that you want to clean it so much. I confess to not usually bothering much, just getting the general crud off then really properly cleaning the mating surfaces etc an lubing the moving parts, like throttle and choke controls.
Best of luck!
This morning has been interesting.
I removed the Carburettor and was surprised to find that the securing nuts on the manifold studs were only done up finger tight + 1-flat. Now I am no ace mechanic but when the engine gets warm/hot and those studs elongate won't the carb be floating about like a flag in the breeze? And, look at the sorry excuse for a gasket betwixt air-filter backplate the carb.
There was/is no gasket between the manifold and the carb body itself.
I wonder if this might be the reason for the hunting/idling up and down?
I will beg for permission to take over the dining room table for the carb-rebuild, else its a camping table in the cold unheated garden room.
I removed the Carburettor and was surprised to find that the securing nuts on the manifold studs were only done up finger tight + 1-flat. Now I am no ace mechanic but when the engine gets warm/hot and those studs elongate won't the carb be floating about like a flag in the breeze? And, look at the sorry excuse for a gasket betwixt air-filter backplate the carb.
There was/is no gasket between the manifold and the carb body itself.
I wonder if this might be the reason for the hunting/idling up and down?
I will beg for permission to take over the dining room table for the carb-rebuild, else its a camping table in the cold unheated garden room.
The brake cleaner would have found that for you, that will explain the choke being brought into play to account for the extra air being drawn inThis morning has been interesting.
I removed the Carburettor and was surprised to find that the securing nuts on the manifold studs were only done up finger tight + 1-flat. Now I am no ace mechanic but when the engine gets warm/hot and those studs elongate won't the carb be floating about like a flag in the breeze? And, look at the sorry excuse for a gasket betwixt air-filter backplate the carb.
There was/is no gasket between the manifold and the carb body itself.
I wonder if this might be the reason for the hunting/idling up and down?
I will beg for permission to take over the dining room table for the carb-rebuild, else its a camping table in the cold unheated garden room.
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