Hi All here is an update.
I swapped the MAF for one from a scrap yard and its all back to normal.
Starts instantly and idles around 700 pm, in fact, it has never idled so smoothly.

Picked up loads of spares too from the old P38 that was being torn apart.
TPS, IACV, all temp sensors, grabbed a few spare relays (inc cruise control relay) loads of trims (internal and external), clips, RF receiver, dash trims, binnacle surround, indicator stalks, door locking module from driver's door, loads of other bits and bobs, all for about £50.
Bargain.
What version rf receiver?
 
Yes I was getting excited too. I saw it there and could not remember what colour dot was good news. Its a blue. Not until I got home that my extra level of excitement dwindled........

Yes, blue is original. Yellow was gen 2. What do you get if you mix blue and yellow? Yep, green is gen 3.
 
Yes I was getting excited too. I saw it there and could not remember what colour dot was good news. Its a blue. Not until I got home that my extra level of excitement dwindled........
I wouldn't go on the colour dot, take the cover off and check whats inside. @brianp38dse kindly sent me the photo of the internals, he may repost for you.;)
 
I wouldn't go on the colour dot, take the cover off and check whats inside. @brianp38dse kindly sent me the photo of the internals, he may repost for you.;)
RF RECIEVER.jpg
 
Cheers Data that saved me finding it again,
From what Martyuk has said there is a forth design of the board, but as long as its not the first two your good to go.
 
Yes internally the one I picked up (essentially for free) despite the blue dot has the same internals as the interim with the metal RFI shield on the board. Is it worth swapping out for this one?

I know the one I have on the car at the moment has a blue dot too, not looked inside, but it does occasionally cause the battery drain issue when I park in RF noisy areas for long periods of time. It normally takes a week or more to drain to the point I need to charge the battery. The other thing it does is some petrol stations seem to emit a lot of RF which causes a locking and engine disabled message which means I need to use the EKA.

I know I need to replace it ideally, but I live in the middle of nowhere so I do not normally experience a problem. Plus I know I could just disconnect the antenna and stand closer, not a major worry as I tend to need to stand within 1 metre anyway.
 
Yes internally the one I picked up (essentially for free) despite the blue dot has the same internals as the interim with the metal RFI shield on the board. Is it worth swapping out for this one?

I know the one I have on the car at the moment has a blue dot too, not looked inside, but it does occasionally cause the battery drain issue when I park in RF noisy areas for long periods of time. It normally takes a week or more to drain to the point I need to charge the battery. The other thing it does is some petrol stations seem to emit a lot of RF which causes a locking and engine disabled message which means I need to use the EKA.

I know I need to replace it ideally, but I live in the middle of nowhere so I do not normally experience a problem. Plus I know I could just disconnect the antenna and stand closer, not a major worry as I tend to need to stand within 1 metre anyway.
It may be worth swapping to the later receiver. You might like to turn off EKA and the Immobiliser in the BECM, it will not stop the battery drain but it will remove the need to enter the EKA code, it also allows the car to by used with the key if the FOB is not working for any reason as in the RF receiver swamped by spurious RF stopping the car responding to the FOB.
 
Best solution for the RF receiver is to buy one of Marty's & Nick's "RF FOB Filter" boxes. This stops the bad RF signals waking the BECM, and works with any generation receiver.
 
Just unplug the aerial - no need to buy anything, or open anything, If you're RHD you have to stand right beside the Receiver to be able to climb in the front door in any case. I think we're a bit off -topic for this thread now though
 
Just unplug the aerial - no need to buy anything, or open anything, If you're RHD you have to stand right beside the Receiver to be able to climb in the front door in any case. I think we're a bit off -topic for this thread now though
Agreed. She is purring like a cat again at idle.

Are MAFs repairable?
I was thinking of opening it to have a look, but I am guessing it is a fairly simple circuit between the connector and the wire. +5v reference and ground plus a return signal for the voltage to the ECU..?
 
Agreed. She is purring like a cat again at idle.

Are MAFs repairable?
I was thinking of opening it to have a look, but I am guessing it is a fairly simple circuit between the connector and the wire. +5v reference and ground plus a return signal for the voltage to the ECU..?
A bit more to it than that I think you will find.
 
Yes, I see Rimmers charge £900 for a change over unit, plus a core charge of £240, so even at their prices I'm guessing there is a little more than a clean and dust off.
 
or maybe the elements are covered in crap & dirt ? I wonder how many are classified as faulty due to corroded connectors or bad solder ?
 
or maybe the elements are covered in crap & dirt ? I wonder how many are classified as faulty due to corroded connectors or bad solder ?
I'm sure you are right, the sensing wires can be cleaned with care using Isopropyl Alcohol or similar as can the connector contacts.
 
I have also noticed on mine (which seems to work fine) that after a run the heat sink plate (the plate with the part number stickered onto it) is very hot. Clearly from under bonnet heat and I assume electrical heat from doing its job. I'd assume that the circuit gets plenty hot from this and so could lead to breakdown of components or joints over time. It would also be subject to a certain amount of vibration as well.
 

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