two air springs, cats to dislodge and water pump to replace, then get to the bottom of the fans not kicking in and its time to start on the inside!!! 1 leccy seat to replace, one drivers seat leather to replace, a computer to install, a screen in the rear, and a good clean and it might just be ready for the next stage!!!
Put some nice new oil in the gearbox, it will make all the difference.
I have a manual and replaced the geabox oil to Evo and its so smooth even when cold.
http://shop.difflock.com/difflock-evolution-fully-synthetic-speed-gear-litre-p-51.html
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
next stage?
andyb66
Well-Known Member
It is a characteristic of the box. Nothing to worry about unless it starts to hang onto 1st all the time.
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
Thats good to hear... Cheers
Mine seems to run slow when it's cold and is sluggish when changing up between 1st & 2nd, and 2nd & 3rd. It's better when warmed up.
Replaced gearbox oil and filter and still there.
What's next? If there's crap in the govenor what's involved in cleaning that? or is it better to leave it and keep an eye out for a scrap box and swap them?
Anyone know of any good RR breakers?
Replaced gearbox oil and filter and still there.
What's next? If there's crap in the govenor what's involved in cleaning that? or is it better to leave it and keep an eye out for a scrap box and swap them?
Anyone know of any good RR breakers?
andyb66
Well-Known Member
Leave the oil in the box. The governer is basically on the back of the main box.
Remove the transfer box and remove the extension housing and then the output shaft adaptor and you'll see the parking pawl and ring.
The governer is bolted to the back of the parking ring, you can slide it off the output shaft, replace the governer and O rings and put it all back together.
I would suggest flushing the box and then cleaning the governer
andyb66
Well-Known Member
No I meant you can leave the ATF in the box when you clean the governer. You should probably drain the transfer box before removal 
I mentioned flushing the box first as there is little point in cleaning the governer and then flushing the box as this will possibly fill it with debris again. There is no need to nessacarily replace the governer, cleaning should be fine.
I wouldn't expect it to take more than an easy afternoon to be honest.
I mentioned flushing the box first as there is little point in cleaning the governer and then flushing the box as this will possibly fill it with debris again. There is no need to nessacarily replace the governer, cleaning should be fine.
I wouldn't expect it to take more than an easy afternoon to be honest.
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
you make it sound easy... rave made it look like a job and half, is it an easy job? im no mechanic but ive changed a few heads engines and boxes in me youth
andyb66
Well-Known Member
Toughest bit is removing the transfer box.
Just make sure you keep everything clean, lay things out in order of removal and take your time.
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
mite seem like a daft question but... what does the govenor do?No I meant you can leave the ATF in the box when you clean the governer. You should probably drain the transfer box before removal
I mentioned flushing the box first as there is little point in cleaning the governer and then flushing the box as this will possibly fill it with debris again. There is no need to nessacarily replace the governer, cleaning should be fine.
I wouldn't expect it to take more than an easy afternoon to be honest.
Found this on the Ashcroft Transmission site:
I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.
This is exactly what I am getting, slow to change up when cold, a bit sluggish between 1st and 2nd and I have changed oil and filter and problem still there if not worse.
Guess I'm going to have to clean the governor and hope that fixes problem.
Another query is that when in multi storey car parks a get a bit of squealing wheels, I had this in my Classic and it got worse till the point it the wheels were scuffing and I had to change the viscous coupling.
My question is, if I'm having to remove parts to clean the governor is the viscous coupling easily accessible (not sure where it fits in) and should I just replace it at the same time since I'll probably have to do it at some other point in the future.
I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why?
The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox.
We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.
This is exactly what I am getting, slow to change up when cold, a bit sluggish between 1st and 2nd and I have changed oil and filter and problem still there if not worse.
Guess I'm going to have to clean the governor and hope that fixes problem.
Another query is that when in multi storey car parks a get a bit of squealing wheels, I had this in my Classic and it got worse till the point it the wheels were scuffing and I had to change the viscous coupling.
My question is, if I'm having to remove parts to clean the governor is the viscous coupling easily accessible (not sure where it fits in) and should I just replace it at the same time since I'll probably have to do it at some other point in the future.
Also found this info on Rangerover.net
Symptoms & Repair of Upshift Problems due to Centrifugal Controller/Governor Malfunction
Winfried Schoepf suddenly experienced shift-up problems on his 1989 Vogue Auto 3.9 EFI. He would have to rev up the engine to 4000 until the ZF 4 HP22 decided to shift. Alternatively, it helped to drive for 3-5 minutes at 20 mph, then accelerate. Once it had done it, the problem quickly went away. For a short while, it then would not shift down to first when stopping, but after a further few minutes drive and a few stops everything was back to normal. This problem gets worse with time, and the cause is the governor at the rear of the auto box. This is a kind of centrifugal controller for gear shift operations.
Winfried reports that fortunately, this problem is a relatively easy fix. You have to remove the transfer case but not the auto box. Winfried sourced all the parts directly from ZF Austria, using their parts manual for Range Rover. The Auto box serial number is required to get the correct parts. If you have a proper car lift and a transmission lift with special mounting plate for the transfer box, two people are sufficient. If you do not have a proper transmission lift, have two friends ready to take the transfer box off and on, while a third works the bolts! It is a heavy beast and you must not foul the splines. Winfried offers the following instructions:
1. Follow the preparatory procedures for transmission removal. Pay attention to remove the fan shroud or remove the fan rotor because you will tilt back the engine. 2. Remove the transfer box
3. Now you have got the rear side of the ZF accessible for work
4. Disassemble as needed to get access to the governor and pull it gently off the shaft.
5. Remove the 3 rings on the shaft and clean everything (with auto boxes, surgical cleanliness is a must)
6. Fit 3 new rubber seals one the shaft (careful, they are square and must fit precisely, quite a puzzle) using vaseline for greasing
7. Fit a new governor valve complete with valve housing (the one that sits around the shaft), don't bother to fix the old one, it will not work although it appears to slide smoothly. But you may re-use the counter weight of the valve housing. Be very careful when sliding on the valve housing onto the shaft, use vaseline and don't foul the seals.
8. Use new gaskets and refit all the rest
9. While you are at it, remove the ZF transmission sump (well, drain before) and replace the steel mesh oil screen. Check for debris in the sump as a sign of impending clutch failure. A small amount of soft dark stuff is okay, just about as much as would fit under your ten finger nails.
10. Don't forget to refill all oils before firing it up. Enjoy your smooth gear shift again!
Parts cost was about $130 and time spent 5 hrs for two people. If you just drive it into your favorite transmission shop to have it all done, expect about $1500.
Symptoms & Repair of Upshift Problems due to Centrifugal Controller/Governor Malfunction
Winfried Schoepf suddenly experienced shift-up problems on his 1989 Vogue Auto 3.9 EFI. He would have to rev up the engine to 4000 until the ZF 4 HP22 decided to shift. Alternatively, it helped to drive for 3-5 minutes at 20 mph, then accelerate. Once it had done it, the problem quickly went away. For a short while, it then would not shift down to first when stopping, but after a further few minutes drive and a few stops everything was back to normal. This problem gets worse with time, and the cause is the governor at the rear of the auto box. This is a kind of centrifugal controller for gear shift operations.
Winfried reports that fortunately, this problem is a relatively easy fix. You have to remove the transfer case but not the auto box. Winfried sourced all the parts directly from ZF Austria, using their parts manual for Range Rover. The Auto box serial number is required to get the correct parts. If you have a proper car lift and a transmission lift with special mounting plate for the transfer box, two people are sufficient. If you do not have a proper transmission lift, have two friends ready to take the transfer box off and on, while a third works the bolts! It is a heavy beast and you must not foul the splines. Winfried offers the following instructions:
1. Follow the preparatory procedures for transmission removal. Pay attention to remove the fan shroud or remove the fan rotor because you will tilt back the engine. 2. Remove the transfer box
3. Now you have got the rear side of the ZF accessible for work
4. Disassemble as needed to get access to the governor and pull it gently off the shaft.
5. Remove the 3 rings on the shaft and clean everything (with auto boxes, surgical cleanliness is a must)
6. Fit 3 new rubber seals one the shaft (careful, they are square and must fit precisely, quite a puzzle) using vaseline for greasing
7. Fit a new governor valve complete with valve housing (the one that sits around the shaft), don't bother to fix the old one, it will not work although it appears to slide smoothly. But you may re-use the counter weight of the valve housing. Be very careful when sliding on the valve housing onto the shaft, use vaseline and don't foul the seals.
8. Use new gaskets and refit all the rest
9. While you are at it, remove the ZF transmission sump (well, drain before) and replace the steel mesh oil screen. Check for debris in the sump as a sign of impending clutch failure. A small amount of soft dark stuff is okay, just about as much as would fit under your ten finger nails.
10. Don't forget to refill all oils before firing it up. Enjoy your smooth gear shift again!
Parts cost was about $130 and time spent 5 hrs for two people. If you just drive it into your favorite transmission shop to have it all done, expect about $1500.
Can anyone suggest somewhere I can buy these seals? Couldn't find them at LRSeries.com
6. Fit 3 new rubber seals one the shaft (careful, they are square and must fit precisely, quite a puzzle) using vaseline for greasing
7. Fit a new governor valve complete with valve housing
I believe the code for 3 seals is RTC 4660 but no idea about the other, is this info in RAVE somewhere?
Finally is the article referring to the gearbox sump and gear box oil filter in point 9?
9. While you are at it, remove the ZF transmission sump (well, drain before) and replace the steel mesh oil screen.
6. Fit 3 new rubber seals one the shaft (careful, they are square and must fit precisely, quite a puzzle) using vaseline for greasing
7. Fit a new governor valve complete with valve housing
I believe the code for 3 seals is RTC 4660 but no idea about the other, is this info in RAVE somewhere?
Finally is the article referring to the gearbox sump and gear box oil filter in point 9?
9. While you are at it, remove the ZF transmission sump (well, drain before) and replace the steel mesh oil screen.
Last edited:
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
i think you may be right when you said its characteristic of the box, when cold if i put me foot down to 30mph at around 3000 revs ait changes gear so hopefully ive got nothing to worry about... thanks for your advice.Toughest bit is removing the transfer box.
Just make sure you keep everything clean, lay things out in order of removal and take your time.
