payydg

payydg

Well-Known Member
Got to send the gearbox off.

My plan is to just unbolt it from the transfer case and then lift the engine out with the gear box attached.

Theres nothing stopping me doing it this way right?

Also I was then going to put the engine back in bolt up the engine mounts and leave the engine like that, is it just going to tip forward/backwards? Work wedging some wood underneath as a precaution?
 
I have never done it that way but can't see why not. I do not see a reason to put engine back in though, just leave it on the floor until box is ready.
What lifting gear do you use ?
 
I would assume you would be removing everything in front gubbings/stuff, I would image its a high difficult lift otherwise.

J
 
tottot said:
I have never done it that way but can't see why not. I do not see a reason to put engine back in though, just leave it on the floor until box is ready.
What lifting gear do you use ?
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t bother either except I’m doing everything on the side of the road so it has to live somewhere
 
Can you not just get the car on ramps and drop box on the floor by removing tunnel panels?

J
 
marjon said:
Can you not just get the car on ramps and drop box on the floor by removing tunnel panels?

J
Click to expand...

Engine has already had to come out to diagnose the gear box issue so probably the easiest option at this point I would have thiught
 
Has anyone had the gearbox out and the engine left insitu for a week or so. Is the engine stable just on its engine mounts?
 
Just chock engine as per @Def90man + if possible, drop gearbox somewhere dry rather than on side of road. Is there' not a friend/buddy mechanic who could help with a garage/workshop...?
 
Drop the gearbox and transfer box out as is and leave the engine in. I wouldn't support it on the sump as that's only thin metal but you could hook an engine lift up to it just to take the weight a little and stop it tilting
 
It would be a lot easier to take the transfer box and gear box out, although an engine crane would still be needed.
The gearbox mounts are one on the main box and one on the transfer box, which may cause problems if you want to leave the transfer box in.
You may get away without a crane if you separate the transfer box from the gear box and take them out separately. definitely a two person job and get straps to go around the gearbox.
I think that you are supposed to remove the seat box, but my ex-army 110 has an improvised removable section in the centre above the trans tunnel, which I presume is to allow the gearbox to be removed.
When you come to re-fit the gear box to the transfer box, it all goes together easier if you remove the input gear via the PTO cover at the back, then re-fit it when it is al bolted together.
Don't forget, no transfer box = no handbrake.
 
Thanks for the advice. If you take the gearbox out by dropping it then the engine is still in the engine bay just supported by the engine mount no? I guess my question is can you leave the engine like that for a while?

Give the engine is completely stripped as it just came out I think I’ll separate the transfer box from gear box and lift engine and gear box out together.

Any idea how much an engine and a gear box weigh together? Drained of course.
 
Although maybe I should just take the seat box out and do it that way. Has anyone lifted the gearbox and transfer box out via the cab?
 
payydg said:
Although maybe I should just take the seat box out and do it that way. Has anyone lifted the gearbox and transfer box out via the cab?
Click to expand...
I remove the floor pans etc to get to the bolts. Remove transfer box then drop downwards & drag underneath.
Put small trolley jack under the rear of the engine just for support. Remove gearbox and drop downwards.
You can get a crane arm into the cab to make lifting easier.
The trolley jack on the engine will help when re refitting to gate a nice angle.

Never removed the seat box as it’s always too much work for me.
 
Whatever you do it will be an arse on the roadside, I would defo leave engine alone, tfer box off then gbox, dont forget you wont have any handbrake so maybe block of wood lighlty on the brake pedal.
Tbh the hardest bit is that bloody awkward shaped tfer box, much easier with two people, make sure to pull tfer gear out to check for wear.
No matter whether you take engine or gearbox or both together, floor plates will have to come out.
Cheap 1 ton engine cranes are pretty much at their limit engine alone, so if you do both you might need something more substantial.
 
Maybe I’ll just do that then so lower everything to the ground. @Hicap phill if you didn’t take the seat box out how did you get to the transfer box to lower it down?
 
payydg said:
Maybe I’ll just do that then so lower everything to the ground. @Hicap phill if you didn’t take the seat box out how did you get to the transfer box to lower it down?
Click to expand...
Remove middle seat & the tray off the top.
Oh & a nit of brute force.
Get some all thread in to the box so you don’t damage the seal in the transfers box.
 
payydg said:
Although maybe I should just take the seat box out and do it that way. Has anyone lifted the gearbox and transfer box out via the cab?
Click to expand...
I have done it this way several times. You do not need to remove the seat box, as @Hicap phill says just the centre access panel and the floors and tunnel. Just put a couple of blocks under the flywheel housing to add some additional support to the engine as it will try to pivot down on its mounts.
It can be done without a crane it you and a friend are fairly strong. My preferred method for removal and refitting of the transfer box is to bench press it on and off with someone in the cab wiggling thins into or out o f place, but that is because it is an awkward shape/weight distribution to crane or jack into place and I am still young and strong enough to do it this way. I then use a crane through the passenger door for the gearbox.
 
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