payydg
Well-Known Member
Not sure what you mean by 'get some all thread into the box"?
dag019
Well-Known Member
As this was a clutch change I did not remove it but just slid everything back which is why the transfer box is still attached and there are straps both sides of the seat box. If I was removing it entirely (which I have done more than I would have liked) I just split the boxes and remove one at a time.
payydg
Well-Known Member
@dag019 @Hicap phill @lynall
I think I’ll do as you suggest and split the boxes and drop them out one at a time. Just had a look, for the transfer box how did you do this. Looks like it would need to be lifted up to leave the mounts but that would mean also lifting the gearbox? Or did you ditch the mounts from the chassis?
I think I’ll do as you suggest and split the boxes and drop them out one at a time. Just had a look, for the transfer box how did you do this. Looks like it would need to be lifted up to leave the mounts but that would mean also lifting the gearbox? Or did you ditch the mounts from the chassis?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Did not think there were any mounts on the transfer box?
Remove chassis brace and if you have a bottle jack just widen the chassis a bit then I took the mounts off the chassis just before I removed the gearbox
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
In 1 or 2 of the bolt holes (where you have removed bolts for transfer box removal) out some threaded rod.
This takes the weight while you slide it backwards.
Do the same for putting on the TB, rod helps line things up
Cant rememebr, but as rear mounts are hung off the tfer box I must have supportted the engine with axle stand/wood blocks etc.
Remember taking out tfer input gear then males refitting tfer box easier as only have to line up studs, rather than studs and input gear splines, but you have to do as Phil suggests otherwise you will wreck the input seal.
Remember taking out tfer input gear then males refitting tfer box easier as only have to line up studs, rather than studs and input gear splines, but you have to do as Phil suggests otherwise you will wreck the input seal.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Just remember which way round that input gear goes
If you put it in the wrong way you only have 3 gears..... yep it took me 20mins of pacing rounds thinking I had a duff box.
Just remember which way round that input gear goes
If you put it in the wrong way you only have 3 gears..... yep it took me 20mins of pacing rounds thinking I had a duff box.
I did that many years ago on a disoc 200, the howl was unreal!
payydg
Well-Known Member
Gotcha, yeh nice tip. Don't suppose you can remember what size the threaded rod would be?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Think 10mm
dag019
Well-Known Member
Unbolt the mounts from the chassis, also remove the gearbox crossmember (made easier with a bottle jack and some packing planks) to gently spread the chassis rails.
Don't know about the 200 TDi but on the TD5 the engine mounts are around about the centre of gravity for the engine so it will balance quite nicely on them while you work.
I tend to take the transmission tunnel and floor out, but leave the seatbox in as per @dag019 's illustration above. If you undo the rubber gearbox mounts and put a jack under the main gearbox you can lift it just enough to get the mounts and brackets disengaged before it fouls the seatbox. The transfer box can then be prised away from the main box and lowered. It's small enough to come out under the chassis without jacking the whole vehicle up. Getting it back on single handed can be a struggle. I've got a transmission jack that's like a small platform scissor lift which helps.
It's worth making a note of where all the bolts (10mm thread as per @Hicap phill) go as there are several different lengths and if you put a long one back in a hole designed for a short one it'll foul the gears inside and the gearbox won't turn, as I discovered. On mine, some of them are studs that screw into the main box so do the same job as threaded rod anyway, so provided you can lift it and hook it onto the studs it'll go on quite nicely.
Then out with the gearbox. If it's going off for a rebuild or to be replaced by an exchange unit, you'll probably need to get the bellhousing off. This is sometimes the most taxing bit because the bolts holding the bellhousing onto the gearbox can be incredibly stiff to undo. Fortunately my impact wrench shifted them, but it was touch and go. I'm glad I didn't have to do this armed only with a socket set.
I've done all this at the side of the road at least a couple of times, with snow on the ground too, so it's perfectly possible. The last time I did this to fit an exchange gearbox was in February and I had the luxury of working in a private yard courtesy of an old lady who lives along the street from me. So I didn't have to hide all the tools every time I needed to go for a pee or refill my coffee cup.
Take it steady and don't try and beat the folks on here who claim to be able to change a clutch in three hours and I'm sure it'll be fine.
I tend to take the transmission tunnel and floor out, but leave the seatbox in as per @dag019 's illustration above. If you undo the rubber gearbox mounts and put a jack under the main gearbox you can lift it just enough to get the mounts and brackets disengaged before it fouls the seatbox. The transfer box can then be prised away from the main box and lowered. It's small enough to come out under the chassis without jacking the whole vehicle up. Getting it back on single handed can be a struggle. I've got a transmission jack that's like a small platform scissor lift which helps.
It's worth making a note of where all the bolts (10mm thread as per @Hicap phill) go as there are several different lengths and if you put a long one back in a hole designed for a short one it'll foul the gears inside and the gearbox won't turn, as I discovered. On mine, some of them are studs that screw into the main box so do the same job as threaded rod anyway, so provided you can lift it and hook it onto the studs it'll go on quite nicely.
Then out with the gearbox. If it's going off for a rebuild or to be replaced by an exchange unit, you'll probably need to get the bellhousing off. This is sometimes the most taxing bit because the bolts holding the bellhousing onto the gearbox can be incredibly stiff to undo. Fortunately my impact wrench shifted them, but it was touch and go. I'm glad I didn't have to do this armed only with a socket set.
I've done all this at the side of the road at least a couple of times, with snow on the ground too, so it's perfectly possible. The last time I did this to fit an exchange gearbox was in February and I had the luxury of working in a private yard courtesy of an old lady who lives along the street from me. So I didn't have to hide all the tools every time I needed to go for a pee or refill my coffee cup.
Take it steady and don't try and beat the folks on here who claim to be able to change a clutch in three hours and I'm sure it'll be fine.
payydg
Well-Known Member
Hi brown, thanks for the advice. I’ve always done everything on the side of the road. Always an anxious trip back to the workshop to get more tools but in 10yrs I’ve never had anything go ‘missing’
I have been a bit slack sometimes, just kicking my spanners far enough underneath that they can't be seen by casual passers by and then trotted back indoors. I don't think I've lost anything that way but I have had the car broken into and a tool box stolen in that particular street so it's a bit of a risk.
I put an exchange R380 unit in a few months ago because it was getting very noisy on the overrun. The new one still has a little song in its heart, but is a lot quieter. It also had a lot less slop on the input shaft too, which was reassuring.
Hope it goes well for you.
