VR-VW010?
VR-VW010?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's the one and it's back in my filing system thanks
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Yes thats the one to use
Datatek
Well-Known Member
12.43 volts is very low IMO, mine stick at 12.6 volts after dropping from 12.8 a couple of hours after shutting the engine off.
14.36 volts is on the low side but not impossibly so, however it does look like your battery is not being fully charged.
Without lights etc on, I see 14.8 volts on mine immediately after starting and that is with a solar charger keeping the battery topped up when the car is not in use. In the current cold weather, it stays at 14.8 volts on both legs our 30Km trip to the supermarket.
So should i buy the voltage regulator, and swap it out. Will that say i have a 14.3-4 volt regulator on my car? Or is it just a old 14.7 slowly screaming its last time?
Why would my battery not fully re-charge when it's rechargin 14.3-3.6 ish volts from alternator? Is this perhaps due to my aftermounted radio drawing current? and car itself drawing current...
In theory a new voltage regulator with higher volt would charge my battery i assume?
I didn't get the gearbox fault warning now as i tested it and took ignition on and off... Weird... Got a tailgate bulb failure tho, might be due i slammed the back abit bcus my electric meter was back there....
*edit* bougth it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274297714642?hash=item3fdd6af7d2:g:MykAAOSw9CRbWwv2
Why would my battery not fully re-charge when it's rechargin 14.3-3.6 ish volts from alternator? Is this perhaps due to my aftermounted radio drawing current? and car itself drawing current...
In theory a new voltage regulator with higher volt would charge my battery i assume?
I didn't get the gearbox fault warning now as i tested it and took ignition on and off... Weird... Got a tailgate bulb failure tho, might be due i slammed the back abit bcus my electric meter was back there....
*edit* bougth it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274297714642?hash=item3fdd6af7d2:g:MykAAOSw9CRbWwv2
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
The lead calcium battery fitted to your car needs a higher voltage to fully charge than older types of battery. At 14.3 volts it will take many hours to fully charge. Batteries not kept in a good state of charge die fairly quickly. Lead Calcium are not designed to withstand becoming discharged, their function is to provide the short duration high current needed to start the car, once running the battery's only function is to smooth the alternator output and absorb demand spikes.
But, i dont have a lead calcium battery. I have a lead acid? @Datatek
i had a lead calcium before, but that battery was bad.. i discharged it several times troubleshoting etc
Im very confused. This is the battery i have https://provolt.no/product/skanbatt-startbatteri-12v-110ah-1000cca-330x171x217-242mm-midtstilt/
I really dont know what that is It's atleast under the category of Lead acid batteries.
Is AGM the calciums? Or does that page not sell calcium batteries... or are they in the same category as acid batteries?
i had a lead calcium before, but that battery was bad.. i discharged it several times troubleshoting etc
Im very confused. This is the battery i have https://provolt.no/product/skanbatt-startbatteri-12v-110ah-1000cca-330x171x217-242mm-midtstilt/
I really dont know what that is
It's atleast under the category of Lead acid batteries.Is AGM the calciums? Or does that page not sell calcium batteries... or are they in the same category as acid batteries?
The 'calcium' battery is still a lead acid battery, the lead has a small amount of calcium mixed in with it during production which means it gases less but needs a higher voltage to charge it (14.7) this is how batteries can be sealed and don't need topping up.
The link doesn't say it's a calcium battery, but the fact is sealed suggests it might be
14.4v was also a fairly common charge point for a while and you can still get regulators set to this voltage, so your regulator is probably working as intended
The link doesn't say it's a calcium battery, but the fact is sealed suggests it might be
14.4v was also a fairly common charge point for a while and you can still get regulators set to this voltage, so your regulator is probably working as intended
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the battery is sealed with no topping up, it's a lead calcium battery. It's almost impossible to buy a car battery that is not lead calcium.But, i dont have a lead calcium battery. I have a lead acid? @Datatek
i had a lead calcium before, but that battery was bad.. i discharged it several times troubleshoting etc
Im very confused. This is the battery i have https://provolt.no/product/skanbatt-startbatteri-12v-110ah-1000cca-330x171x217-242mm-midtstilt/
I really dont know what that is
Is AGM the calciums? Or does that page not sell calcium batteries... or are they in the same category as acid batteries?
Just checked your link, looks like a lead calcium battery to me.
AGM batteries are not suitable for the P38 IMO.
Well i have purchased the regulator. I suppose this should fully charge my battery. I read that 12.4volt is considerer charged, but 12.6 should be full full.
It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off?
It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Different battery chemistry's have small variations in voltage so between 12.6 and 12.8 is full charged after the battery has lost the surface charge. 12.4 is half charged if you are a glass half full person or half flat if you are a glass half empty person.Well i have purchased the regulator. I suppose this should fully charge my battery. I read that 12.4volt is considerer charged, but 12.6 should be full full.
It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off?
Once you get the back cover off, you will see what you need to undo. Don't forget to slide the brush retainer off after fitting the regulator.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Well i have purchased the regulator. I suppose this should fully charge my battery. I read that 12.4volt is considerer charged, but 12.6 should be full full.
It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off?
Take your battery off and charge it properly 12.4 is not good, and do the regulator swap with battery disconnected you dont want to blow the engine ecu ask me how i know
you can do it with out taking alt off its just a fiddle.
Absolutly half full
I like to have things, as they should be. So my battery volt must be fixed. I ain't paying 300quid for a new same battery next year
Datatek
Well-Known Member
£300 for a batteryAbsolutly half full
I like to have things, as they should be. So my battery volt must be fixed. I ain't paying 300quid for a new same battery next year
The Hankook MF31-1000 is less than £100 delivered and is the best battery that I have come across by far, I have 6 of them As Brian said you need to charge the battery, it will take the alternator a very long time to fully charge the battery even with the correct regulator.Much easier to remove the alternator IMO.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
6 !!!£300 for a battery
Much easier to remove the alternator IMO.
No wonder they were out of stock when I wanted one
.It's ok to do Insitu. I found a mirror useful to locate the small bolts.
Don't chuck the plastic brush retainer away after you've removed it, stick it on your old removed brush pack and you'll have an emergency spare.
I'll drive without the radio til the new regulator come It can't make it any worse.
Would it maybe be worth to up the amps in the alternator?
Maybe my small 10 minute lunch break trips to the shop is killing my battery, (back and fourth 5min x2) with my radio blasting... 2x 12inch subs aint that easy i suppose. I don't know how long the alternator needs to work to charge up the battery from mainly just starting the car. (it starts quite quickly btw after i changed to this good battery)
Someone once told me it usually takes around 5-10 min before the car charges up from the starting..
Im not an electrician i just connect and disconnect cables
AMPs is the amount of power, and volt is the speed aint that somehow relateable? Maybe not However, if i have a slow charging alternator with mediocre capacity and a huge bass i suppose thats whats killing it. (and my small trips)
I do not have a RF reciever in the car, so my car is not draining battery from WiFi signals and that sh*t (i dont mind unlocking via key)
Im just abit scared that my oil pressure light took some time to extinguish also (type, fresh oil change, filter empty) , when the gearbox fault message also came...
I've got enough oil atleast, checked that. It's not even cold anymore. It's like 5-8 degrees now after 2 weeks of sub zero temp
No odd sounds btw, so guess its just the electrical doing a spooky spook
It can't make it any worse.Would it maybe be worth to up the amps in the alternator?
Maybe my small 10 minute lunch break trips to the shop is killing my battery, (back and fourth 5min x2) with my radio blasting... 2x 12inch subs aint that easy i suppose. I don't know how long the alternator needs to work to charge up the battery from mainly just starting the car. (it starts quite quickly btw after i changed to this good battery)
Someone once told me it usually takes around 5-10 min before the car charges up from the starting..
Im not an electrician i just connect and disconnect cables
AMPs is the amount of power, and volt is the speed aint that somehow relateable? Maybe not
However, if i have a slow charging alternator with mediocre capacity and a huge bass i suppose thats whats killing it. (and my small trips)I do not have a RF reciever in the car, so my car is not draining battery from WiFi signals and that sh*t
(i dont mind unlocking via key) Im just abit scared that my oil pressure light took some time to extinguish also (type, fresh oil change, filter empty) , when the gearbox fault message also came...
I've got enough oil atleast, checked that. It's not even cold anymore. It's like 5-8 degrees now after 2 weeks of sub zero temp
No odd sounds btw, so guess its just the electrical doing a spooky spook
