well, spank me and call me daddy :eek:

was a lose nut at the voltage regulator :D WHOO UNDID THAT?

probably the engine vibrating the shid out of it :D It charged at 14.5-6 volts steady, note battery was at 12.8 volts, i took ignition on 2-3 times and battery terminals off twice and it magically cleared my airbag and srs fault :cool:

now i just have aprox 250-350ml of gearoil to much in the box. I question myself why. Since my first meassurement, no joke was right inbetween the min and max marks, my stupid ass told myself, nah no way i just filled 5 liters of gearoil and its full, and i just poured half a liter back in and woop now its 2-3 cm above max mark :eek:


I tough it took 7 liters, and yes i know theres some fluid in the converter.
Anyhow, voltage issue fixed, geez :D
thanks for all helpz people!
i am probably going to undo the sump slightly and try to get some fluid out, if not do some tricks trough dipstick
Well done Daddy,sack the cant who fitted the regulator.;):rolleyes::D
 
well, spank me and call me daddy :eek:

was a lose nut at the voltage regulator :D WHOO UNDID THAT?

probably the engine vibrating the shid out of it :D It charged at 14.5-6 volts steady, note battery was at 12.8 volts, i took ignition on 2-3 times and battery terminals off twice and it magically cleared my airbag and srs fault :cool:

now i just have aprox 250-350ml of gearoil to much in the box. I question myself why. Since my first meassurement, no joke was right inbetween the min and max marks, my stupid ass told myself, nah no way i just filled 5 liters of gearoil and its full, and i just poured half a liter back in and woop now its 2-3 cm above max mark :eek:


I tough it took 7 liters, and yes i know theres some fluid in the converter.
Anyhow, voltage issue fixed, geez :D
thanks for all helpz people!
i am probably going to undo the sump slightly and try to get some fluid out, if not do some tricks trough dipstick
You are checking the level with the engine/gearbox cold, engine idling and after going through the gears?
Told you it was a bad connection somewhere:D
Pleased to hear you have sorted it.
Godt gjort den mannen:D:D
 
Yes, i am going to pour the old fluid in the containers ive emptied, and measure how much that was. Good start point perhaps :D

i just love how i had the lvl perfect inbetween min and max, then pouring more into it :D, the more the better yes :rolleyes:

Also gotta fix the leak from the back of the sump :) days goes fast :confused: might leave work early and get stuff done.
 
Yes, i am going to pour the old fluid in the containers ive emptied, and measure how much that was. Good start point perhaps :D

i just love how i had the lvl perfect inbetween min and max, then pouring more into it :D, the more the better yes :rolleyes:

Also gotta fix the leak from the back of the sump :) days goes fast :confused: might leave work early and get stuff done.
Overfilling is not advised if its leaking it won't be for long.;):D
 
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Overfilling is not advised of its leaking it won't be for long.;):D

i did atleast overfill it, less than the previous owner :D
I think i am going to slacken some bolts on the sump then and allow it to relief itself
I cant say why its leaking tho as all the bolts should be pretty tighty, its leaking at the area of the last bolt i snugged. maybe i need to slacken them all and then start with the one whichs leaking then.
 
Ok, end results is it gears way better, gearbox fault in dash is actually a goner too, dunno if its bcus i charged my battery..

Regarding my battery drain, i was silly enough to think that, since both my keys miss their batteries, and stuff, that the RF reciever in the car was actually unplugged..
well it was not :D

i unplugged the main connector, and not the antenna/blue.

i also got told LHD p38 had the reciever in the side with the wheel, aka leftside. That was not true, mines on the right side. (Rhd) :confused:

I am unsure if it will help unplug it, as it seems to be the mk2/mk3 version? As it has the green dot? Blue was mk1 i belieeeve?
Anyhow, i dont got intention to fixy keys… not yet atleast. So rf reciever is unplugged..

hope it cures my drain, i didnt do the becm sleep test, but im darn sure i’ve seen that red light in the gear selector once its off…. And should be zzzzz

So kudos for me, for thinking its already done, but its not :rolleyes:

Will monitor the voltage all til sunday, then charge up the battery if its dropped as its used to.

As this problem just happend rapidly, i suppose some neighbours has installed some weird frequence stuff.. OmegaBell 3000 Ringyding door sounder.

Smh
 
Ok, end results is it gears way better, gearbox fault in dash is actually a goner too, dunno if its bcus i charged my battery..

Regarding my battery drain, i was silly enough to think that, since both my keys miss their batteries, and stuff, that the RF reciever in the car was actually unplugged..
well it was not :D

i unplugged the main connector, and not the antenna/blue.

i also got told LHD p38 had the reciever in the side with the wheel, aka leftside. That was not true, mines on the right side. (Rhd) :confused:

I am unsure if it will help unplug it, as it seems to be the mk2/mk3 version? As it has the green dot? Blue was mk1 i belieeeve?
Anyhow, i dont got intention to fixy keys… not yet atleast. So rf reciever is unplugged..

hope it cures my drain, i didnt do the becm sleep test, but im darn sure i’ve seen that red light in the gear selector once its off…. And should be zzzzz

So kudos for me, for thinking its already done, but its not :rolleyes:

Will monitor the voltage all til sunday, then charge up the battery if its dropped as its used to.

As this problem just happend rapidly, i suppose some neighbours has installed some weird frequence stuff.. OmegaBell 3000 Ringyding door sounder.

Smh
A touch of good news mate:D
 
Ok, dont know if i still have a batterydrain after unplugging the RF main connector.
Volts as following:

12.62volts 07.1 22:00
12.55v, 08.1 13:20
12.51v, 09.1 13:20

I reckon it dropped 0.5volts if not more when RF was connected. (a day)

So if my battery is full, 12.8volts, it would in theory tackle to stay put 14days now i presume? and end up at 12.2volts, and stll manage to start the car up. (might be fault codes i guess, abs etc)

Perhaps my bad fusebox, is draining some volts? Or is this just bad ground cables? Or do i have a draw?
What could draw power? BECM should sleep i suppose now that RF is goner.

Could it be that i have my bonnet up? Could a bonnet up make the car not go zzzz totally and draw a tiny amount of power?

Test has been done in a garage, with bonnet up to ease me checking everyday..

Only aftermarket electrics:
Amplifier with subwoofer (with remote, led status on/off)
Led lights in main beam
small led lights for long beams mounted on bumper.

cheers.
 
If it stops dropping at 12.5 volts I would not worry. Without the solar panels connected, mine drop to 12.6 in 24 hours and stick there. There are many variations on the Lead Calcium battery theme, all exhibit slightly different characteristics.
 
I'll drive without the radio til the new regulator come :D It can't make it any worse.

Would it maybe be worth to up the amps in the alternator?

Maybe my small 10 minute lunch break trips to the shop is killing my battery, (back and fourth 5min x2) with my radio blasting... 2x 12inch subs aint that easy i suppose. I don't know how long the alternator needs to work to charge up the battery from mainly just starting the car. (it starts quite quickly btw after i changed to this good battery)
Someone once told me it usually takes around 5-10 min before the car charges up from the starting..

Im not an electrician i just connect and disconnect cables :D

AMPs is the amount of power, and volt is the speed aint that somehow relateable? Maybe not :rolleyes::eek: However, if i have a slow charging alternator with mediocre capacity and a huge bass i suppose thats whats killing it. (and my small trips)

I do not have a RF reciever in the car, so my car is not draining battery from WiFi signals and that sh*t :D (i dont mind unlocking via key)

Im just abit scared that my oil pressure light took some time to extinguish also (type, fresh oil change, filter empty) , when the gearbox fault message also came...
I've got enough oil atleast, checked that. It's not even cold anymore. It's like 5-8 degrees now after 2 weeks of sub zero temp

No odd sounds btw, so guess its just the electrical doing a spooky spook:oops:
I came across this guy some time ago on about batteries, albeit BMW, but I think it applies to all battery applications in relation to most cars, Link :
 
Well i have purchased the regulator. I suppose this should fully charge my battery. I read that 12.4volt is considerer charged, but 12.6 should be full full.

It was just 3 screws on the back of the alternator rigth? Anything to take care off? No need for taking other parts off? :)
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I have Hankook MF31-1000 and Hankook told me the fully charged battery will have OCV of 12.8 to 12.9 volts.
What alternator do you have? Make and model? I am interested because I want to fit the Mobiletron VR-VW010 but not sure if it will fit my alternator.
 
I dont know which make or model it is sadly. I think all the diesel ones are the same fit tho?

u can maybe just take out the old voltage regulator and see if it looks similar to the upgraded version? Mine looked very similar, only difference was new one had a weird round metal dome instead of a heatsink like the original
 
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I have Hankook MF31-1000 and Hankook told me the fully charged battery will have OCV of 12.8 to 12.9 volts.
What alternator do you have? Make and model? I am interested because I want to fit the Mobiletron VR-VW010 but not sure if it will fit my alternator.
I think it's Valeo, I'll have to check. It's lower amperage than the one fitted to the petrol and the mountings are different.
 
Timm, the guy in the video did one on engine oil too, in relation to the M62 fitted in my car, I don't what this guy does for a living, but he is pretty good
Thank you guys for the award I am deeply humbled.
 
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