+1 for dropping the tank. I did it as the 1st job on mine and it wasn't that hard. I think it would be easier than cutting the floor.

On anything after 1997 it pays to remove the tank and check the brake pipe that runs above and behind the tank across inside the body section. Replacing it with the tank in would be nigh on impossible.
 
Well Spammers, checked fuse 39 and all OK. Ran wire from +ve terminal on battery and pump not running. On to dropping tank and changing lift pump and checking brake pipes whilst there. Thank you for all the advice.
 
Well Spammers, checked fuse 39 and all OK. Ran wire from +ve terminal on battery and pump not running. On to dropping tank and changing lift pump and checking brake pipes whilst there. Thank you for all the advice.

Who's been a busy little bee then? :D:D
 
Is this going to be the theme of the thread now? To see how many variations of Wammers name autocorrect creates?
 
Hi Guys,

Last question re lift pump. I note from you Wammers that you say that the lift pump only runs when glow plugs are lit or when engine running so would a dodgy pump result in the car stalling when it is particularly under load i.e. air con kicking in or even when turning having just started the engine?? The engine used to do this previously and thankfully it hasn't done this since changing the pump, however any thoughts other than what you have suggested above so that I can be mindful in the future. Again no fault codes showing now and ticking over at a solid 750.

Cheers

Buzz
 
Hi Guys,

Last question re lift pump. I note from you Wammers that you say that the lift pump only runs when glow plugs are lit or when engine running so would a dodgy pump result in the car stalling when it is particularly under load i.e. air con kicking in or even when turning having just started the engine?? The engine used to do this previously and thankfully it hasn't done this since changing the pump, however any thoughts other than what you have suggested above so that I can be mindful in the future. Again no fault codes showing now and ticking over at a solid 750.

Cheers

Buzz

That is usually a fault on the fuel quantity servo if the lift pump is working. Although can occur if the lift pump has an NRV and it has failed and the injection pump is struggling to suck fuel from the tank in a low fuel scenario.. And maybe sucking air past the filter O'rings adding to the problem.
 
Why, the joys of P38 ownership. The fuel quantity servo is integral to the injection pump I am guessing which means whole unit swap. The other scenario could well be correct but will watch to see if it continues now a new lift pump is fitted. Cheers again Wammers.
 
Hi Guys,

Last question re lift pump. I note from you Wammers that you say that the lift pump only runs when glow plugs are lit or when engine running so would a dodgy pump result in the car stalling when it is particularly under load i.e. air con kicking in or even when turning having just started the engine?? The engine used to do this previously and thankfully it hasn't done this since changing the pump, however any thoughts other than what you have suggested above so that I can be mindful in the future. Again no fault codes showing now and ticking over at a solid 750.

Cheers

Buzz

I think the FIP can suck enough fuel withut the lift-pump to tick over and mooch along. As soon as it comes under load it struggles, adjusts fuel quantity servo but no more fuel comes as the lift pump is dead and eventually it adjusts out of operating range and stalls. The FIP manual mentions the FIP "amplying" the pressure from the lift-pump so it needs a certain pressure to work (in their words.)

Mine used to stall as I came to roundabouts. Presumably the FIP server went to 0 and the dribble that was left wasn't enough for tickover until primed by the glows again.
 

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