S

Scaz93

Member
Hi, could anyone shed some light as to how I can check the Fuel Pressure on a 2013 Freelander 2? I cant seem to locate a Schrader valve to hook up a test kit.
Car occasionally splutters a bit on start up first time in the day. Rest of the day its ok, so thinking there might be a pressure issue or fuel run back. Only 10 years old and 60k miles. Fuel filtr changed not long ago but was bad before that. Really bad when its cold but think that's a separate issue, but could be exacerbated by fuel issues. Cant see any obvious leaks.

Thanks a lot
 
Scaz93 said:
I cant seem to locate a Schrader valve to hook up a test kit.
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There isn't a test point, as the fuel lines are under vacuum.
The fuel is drawn up from the tank by the HP pump.
Give it a dose of Comma Diesel Magic, as it sounds like an injector issue. Diesel Magic will help breakdown contaminants from the injectors.
You can check for fuel running back by looking at the live data from the ECM on starting, which should show up an issue there.
 
Nodge68 said:
There isn't a test point, as the fuel lines are under vacuum.
The fuel is drawn up from the tank by the HP pump.
Give it a dose of Comma Diesel Magic, as it sounds like an injector issue. Diesel Magic will help breakdown contaminants from the injectors.
You can check for fuel running back by looking at the live data from the ECM on starting, which should show up an issue there.
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Thanks Nodge! Always great advice. Will buy some Comma Diesel. I guess to look at live data from the ECM it needs to be hooked up on the readers at a garage? Don’t think my handheld obd2 reader shows anything other than error codes, rpm, load value and coolant temperature.
 
Scaz93 said:
Don’t think my handheld obd2 reader shows anything other than error codes, rpm, load value and coolant temperature.
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I've got a BT dongle which plugs into the OBD2 port, which when used with a suitable App gives all engine data, including rail pressure, boost pressure, MAF and everything else the ECM sends out.
 
Might buy another one then to check.
I take it you would see a surge in pressure on start up following by it dropping back when idle if there is an issue?
 
Scaz93 said:
Might buy another one then to check.
I take it you would see a surge in pressure on start up following by it dropping back when idle if there is an issue?
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If fuel pressure is the issue, it should show as rapid instability of the rail pressure. The rail pressure changes constantly while the engine us running, but sudden fluctuations should show up.
 
Finally got round to buying a BT obd reader. Attached picture shows the rail pressure. Anything to worry about do you think? Also recently it has been a bit hesitant every now and again in first or second gear when pulling away. Could it be connected?
IMG_3360.png
 
Is that starting from cold at idle, or being revved up?
If it's at idle, it's what I'd expected to see. If it's under load, it's very low.
 
Hi, yes this was at idle. Just thinking with the rough starting (always in the cold but sometimes on a random warm morning), plus the occasional hesitation in first or second gear it could be a fuel issue. No codes registered on obd2.
 
Does the car get long motorway drives at regular intervals, or is it just used round town?
If round town, it could be an injector isn't closing off fully, so drains down when parked. They seem to like being exercised for long periods of time regularly, or they can misbehave.
 
Nodge68 said:
Does the car get long motorway drives at regular intervals, or is it just used round town?
If round town, it could be an injector isn't closing off fully, so drains down when parked. They seem to like being exercised for long periods of time regularly, or they can misbehave.
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Yeh it goes about 20-50 miles each day with good motorway stretches
 
Scaz93 said:
Yeh it goes about 20-50 miles each day with good motorway stretches
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Try a couple of doses of comma diesel magic when fueling up. I find it's very good at cleaning the injectors. Don't forget that these injectors aren't designed to work with bio-diesel, which is all that's available now, so they seem to suffer sticking and clogging as a result.
 
Hi again, a few bottles of diesel magic later and the intermittent hesitancy in first or second gear seems to be better. A dodgy start first thing in the day is gradually getting more annoying though. Long crank before finally turning over. Every start after that is fine until the following morning where it isn’t overly happy
 
It sounds like you could have an issue with fuel draining back to the tank over long off periods like at night.
What fuel filter is on there? Some aftermarket filters give issues with starting, where they allow air through the connections, which does cause fuel bleed back.
 
Nodge68 said:
It sounds like you could have an issue with fuel draining back to the tank over long off periods like at night.
What fuel filter is on there? Some aftermarket filters give issues with starting, where they allow air through the connections, which does cause fuel bleed back.
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Not sure what one is on there to be honest. It was replaced last year as part of a full service but the car had this issue prior to the filter being changed and the one before the current was a Bosch from memory. Any way to check bleed back?
 
There is a clear fuel line between the filter and injection pump. Look at the clear line before the first start of the day, while someone else is starting it. If there's lots of air visible in the clear line, then you may well have an issue with fuel draining back to the tank.
 
Brilliant I will try this, thank you. Guessing I can fit a non return valve on the fuel line if this is the case? Would also explain why it struggles even more when cold outside if the fuel is having to travel further through the system
 
Scaz93 said:
Brilliant I will try this, thank you. Guessing I can fit a non return valve on the fuel line if this is the case? Would also explain why it struggles even more when cold outside if the fuel is having to travel further through the system
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The non return valve is in the fuel pump, so you shouldn't need another. However as the non return valve is where it is, any tiny leak between the pump and fuel line from the tank will allow fuel to flow back to the tank over time.
It's best to make sure all joints are leak free, but before that you need to prove there is a leak to start with.
 
Nodge68 said:
The non return valve is in the fuel pump, so you shouldn't need another. However as the non return valve is where it is, any tiny leak between the pump and fuel line from the tank will allow fuel to flow back to the tank over time.
It's best to make sure all joints are leak free, but before that you need to prove there is a leak to start with.
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No air bubbles in the fuel line when I checked this morning. Felt around all the joints and the fuel line and couldn’t feel or see any diesel anywhere either. Hhmmmm….
 
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