Over the last couple of days my Td4 has been intermittently starting. It'll turn happily, but won't fire when it does this. Having read plenty on here before about the two fuel pumps, I popped the bonnet yesterday, gave the under bonnet pump next to the fuel filter a whack, wiggled the connector, recranked the engine and it fired.

Same thing has happened a few more times since, but not every time though. I decided to be a bit more scientific this morning, and felt the pump with the ignition on: the pump was running OK. The engine fired OK that time when I cranked it, but at least now I know what to look/listen/feel for (or not) if it stops working again. Only problem is that I can't get it to fail reliably again! I thought I had it earlier when it wouldn't fire on the first crank. I popped the bonnet ready to feel the pump, turned the ignition on again and, like a ****, just cranked it and it bloody fired!

So, my question is this: does this sound like a failing pump? What about the pump relay - are they known to fail?

I realise it could be the in-tank pump and, if I can get it to fail reliably I will test the fuel flow from that one, but as I can smack the pump/wiggle the connector and get it working I would imagine it's the under-bonnet one.

If it IS the under-bonnet pump, is it worth chancing one of the eBay £60-ish specials, or should I go for a genuine one?

Cheers.

Had a similar problem. Yes, is was the pump in my case. To be sure, listen for the pump so you know what it sounds like when working. Next time it fails to start lift the bonnet and listen. Give the pump a sharp tap if all is quiet and you should hear it run. The segments on the commutator are wearing, and occasionally the motor will stop on a dead one.
If you need to change the pump, check to see if if it is this one.

Freelander 2.0D TD4 New In-Line Diesel Fuel Pump | eBay

On this type, the hoses are held to the inlet and outlet spigots by clips, which can be released with a pair of pliers. If yours has a push on connection, similar to the one on the filter then I'm not sure if you can get an after market one.

I used an after market one. It is a bit noisier but it works O/K. Best of luck.
Eric.

Eric, thanks for that. I ordered that pump after much deliberating about cheaper and more expensive ones and it arrived yesterday. Fitted it today and all seems well. Yes, it's a bit noisier with the ignition switched on and no engine running, but at least you can hear if it's turning from inside the cab!!

thats a good price as i paid £118 for mine up here at an auto parts dealer.. I've since found out that a rover 75 cdt pump will work the same too.. handy to know if your looking for a second hand pump from a scrap merchants as td4's can be of limited supply..

changing a td4 lift pump is childs play, a rover 75 is a pig as the battery & box has to come out to allow access to the pump fuel line though..

Good info. I did wonder if the Rover one would do the job, but thought I'd better stay with a designated LR part. Anyway, yes, a reasonable price.

Yeah, it only took 20 minutes to fit. Bit fiddly getting to the bottom fuel pipe, but nothing too serious

Creeeg said:

Good info. I did wonder if the Rover one would do the job, but thought I'd better stay with a designated LR part. Anyway, yes, a reasonable price.

Yeah, it only took 20 minutes to fit. Bit fiddly getting to the bottom fuel pipe, but nothing too serious

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glad to hear it m8.. i found getting the pump & filter black plastic holder a bit of a pain to get clipped back onto its housing more of a problem as 1 of the back clips had been broken off, whilst doing this i replaced the oem clips with proper fuel line clips that look like jubilee clips bit have a nut & bolt tightener, making it stronger all round too..

Good job Craig. I was going to tell you that if you had the pump shown on eBay, then you would also have a quick release connection at the other end of the hose from the bottom of the pump! This is released by squeezing a white clip on the underside of the multi fuel connector situated on the chassis below the track rod (access behind the front wheel). Oh well, useful if you have to do the job again!
Eric.