Kaijun

Active Member
When I changed rear axle oil yesterday, I found its wet, then looked up forward a bit, there is a wet area where the rear seat is located above. I guess it could be leak from a fuel line (HP line?). But I can not see any fuel line at this location. How do I get access from the above of the wet area? Any ideas are appreciated! image1.jpeg
 
Don't look like a D1 so it's either a 2/3/4/5?

Have you popped open the boot floor inspection hatch to have a look at the fuel sender?

Has it exhibited any rough running symptoms?
 
Why don't you leave all the covers off and run the engine to see if you can see where the leak is coming from?
Leaks can appear in a different place from the source if they run inside chassis members, box sections etc.
 
Isn't this a common problem with the D2's fuel lines rubbing on something above the tank. It happened on my last D2 and the local indi jointed the pipe for me. I think they lifted the body a bit to give some clearance for the repair.
 
Isn't this a common problem with the D2's fuel lines rubbing on something above the tank. It happened on my last D2 and the local indi jointed the pipe for me. I think they lifted the body a bit to give some clearance for the repair.

Mine had a leak in the same are & it is a common fault. You will most likely find the fuel line has rubbed through on top of the tank midway between the fuel pump hatch & the front of the tank.

Dan.
 
I checked the wet area again this weekend. it is dry or half dry around it, apart of that it has no drips. I checked the tank and fuel pipe lines on chassis which is lower than the wet area. They are dry too. It seems a fluid was gushed from its underneath. I saw there are two grease U-turn hoses, last year MOT mentioned (Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material to hose) I don't think they are brake pipe but connected ACE pipes (see pic). However ACE level is still at max. I saw the rear axle oil was low when I changed it last week, gushed from there? or from the breather of tank if the tank was refilled fully some day. It is mysterious to me
 

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Finally, I found the rear diff oil was flung to the wet area when the oil was weeping from the pinion flange. I checked the breather is clear. It seems I need to replace the diff seal behind the pinion flange. But two LR tools are needed to access the seal (see pic). I am wondering if anyone has undone the three-bolted pinion flange using other tools or means.
 

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Firstly, be assured this is not rocket science! Others have posted on this forum, as have I in the past, so you could just search for it.
For LRT - 51-008, you can use something like a piece of pipe or as I have done an old box spanner of the correct size so it leaves clearance for the spigot to rise inside it but will rest on the pinion flange. Then you assemble a bunch of washers, thick as you can get which will sit on top of your pipe/box spanner. Through the central hole pass a piece of threaded bar, with a couple of nuts locked together on it, of the correct diameter and thread to go into the threaded hole, M8 if memory serves, but I did it on a D1 and it may be different on a D2. Tighten the bar down into the hole. Then, ensuring the hole in the centre of your washers, if too big, is reduced by using penny washers of narrower internal diameter, thread down a nut and start tightening it. This should pull the spigot upwards inside the pipe/box spanner. It WILL be tight, others have used heat, and as you are replacing the seal then a heat gun will not do uncontrolled or unwanted damage. I personally used a slide hammer and all sorts before realising that the use of what is in essence a puller is really the only way to go. You should also soak it in Plusgas, WD40 or a mix of ATF and acetone to reduce the grip of the flange on the spigot which is donw to a form of Locktite or something.
Once it is out, LRT -51-003 really isn't necessary. If you are doing this on the car, all you have to do is lower it to the ground, chock the rear wheels, handbrake on then undo the pinion nut as normal although it is done up to a heck of a torque. If you have taken the diff out, then just jam the pinion teeth against the crown wheel teeth with a big screwdriver or something similar to stop it turning.
If you really want to replicate the proper tool, you do not need a bit of bent flat bar, a longer piece of flat bar will do. Off to B&Q, get some bar, cut a bit off, drill some holes use a bolt and nut to secure one end of the short bit of bar to the long bit, then use the existing nuts and bolts off the flange to secure the holes at the end of your bits of flat bar to the flange, hold the long end of the bar while loosening the pinion nut.
Then pry the old seal out carefully to ensure you do not mark its seat etc.
Best of luck and let us know how you get on!
 
Last edited:
Firstly, be assured this is not rocket science! Others have posted on this forum, as have I in the past, so you could just search for it.
For LRT - 51-008, you can use something like a piece of pipe or as I have done an old box spanner of the correct size so it leaves clearance for the spigot to rise inside it but will rest on the pinion flange. Then you assemble a bunch of washers, thick as you can get which will sit on top of your pipe/box spanner. Through the central hole pass a piece of threaded bar, with a couple of nuts locked together on it, of the correct diameter and thread to go into the threaded hole, M8 if memory serves, but I did it on a D1 and it may be different on a D2. Tighten the bar down into the hole. Then, ensuring the hole in the centre of your washers, if too big, is reduced by using penny washers of narrower internal diameter, thread down a nut and start tightening it. This should pull the spigot upwards inside the pipe/box spanner. It WILL be tight, others have used heat, and as you are replacing the seal then a heat gun will not do uncontrolled or unwanted damage. I personally used a slide hammer and all sorts before realising that the use of what is in essence a puller is really the only way to go. You should also soak it in Plusgas, WD40 or a mix of ATF and acetone to reduce the grip of the flange on the spigot which is donw to a form of Locktite or something.
Once it is out, LRT -51-003 really isn't necessary. If you are doing this on the car, all you have to do is lower it to the ground, chock the rear wheels, handbrake on then undo the pinion nut as normal although it is done up to a heck of a torque. If you have taken the diff out, then just jam the pinion teeth against the crown wheel teeth with a big screwdriver or something similar to stop it turning.
If you really want to replicate the proper tool, you do not need a bit of bent flat bar, a longer piece of flat bar will do. Off to B&Q, get some bar, cut a bit off, drill some holes use a bolt and nut to secure one end of the short bit of bar to the long bit, then use the existing nuts and bolts off the flange to secure the holes at the end of your bits of flat bar to the flange, hold the long end of the bar while loosening the pinion nut.
Then pry the old seal out carefully to ensure you do not mark its seat etc.
Best of luck and let us know how you get on!

Thank you for your info, Stanleysteamer. One of my concerns is bolt holes alignment of flange pinion when refitting. If out of alignment, do I have to rotate rear wheels by jacking the car?
 
Thank you for your info, Stanleysteamer. One of my concerns is bolt holes alignment of flange pinion when refitting. If out of alignment, do I have to rotate rear wheels by jacking the car?
Yes, I suppose so. But if wheels are on the floor, you can put the gear lever in neutral, handbrake off and turn the prop. As long as the wheels are chocked. Either is fine.
 

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