W

welshspringer

Active Member

• Sep 23, 2016

• #1

Hi

I think I have a jinx following me. Having repaired the head gasket and replaces the "p" gasket and water pump gasket along with new calipers and cv joint, my drivng side window stopped working and will not close. I am pretty sure that the actuator is working, something went bang when I was closing the window, hence will not close. Will be stripping the card from door tomorrow, would anyone have an idea (without seeing) what has happened. Please some idea would be of help before I take of the door card etc.

 

biggeeeee

Retired - Living the dream

• Sep 23, 2016

• #2

You need a new regulator

 

W

welshspringer

Active Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #3

Hi

Checked the workings inside the door, only thing in bad condition was the bottom support rail, the rubber was perished and the outer corroded badly. Ordered a new one should be able to fit it Tuesday

 

Spong

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #4

Are the nylon wheels OK? Had one of those break up on mine which stopped it going up properly.

 

Grezzer

Well-Known Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #5

Defo regulator. When changing check the motor wires I had one that was broken, repaired and cable tied in place.

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 24, 2016

• #6

As above - either the regulator, or the support rail is kaput. My drivers door had this issue - rear of the rail had rotted away.and the ensuing "mess" had broken the regulator. I drove to paddocks with the window taped shut (!), and the door card off !

 

W

welshspringer

Active Member

• Sep 30, 2016

• #7

Disco1BFG said:

As above - either the regulator, or the support rail is kaput. My drivers door had this issue - rear of the rail had rotted away.and the ensuing "mess" had broken the regulator. I drove to paddocks with the window taped shut (!), and the door card off !

Click to expand...

Problem fixed. Turned out be the bottom support rail, must be 20 yrs old. New rail fixed it but had to fettle it for glass and rubber to fit.
Part purchased from Foundry 4 x 4 very helpfull. always prepared to offer help.

 

Disco1BFG

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Sep 30, 2016

• #8

welshspringer said:

but had to fettle it for glass and rubber to fit.

Click to expand...

Aye, when I did mine, it was scary how much force I had to use to get the glass to go in to the rail. even with proper lubrication D) - it was bl**dy tight

glad its fixed

 

W

welshspringer

Active Member

• Oct 16, 2016

• #9

Disco1BFG said:

Aye, when I did mine, it was scary how much force I had to use to get the glass to go in to the rail. even with proper lubrication D) - it was bl**dy tight

glad its fixed

Click to expand...

All fine had a leak on the flange between front hub and diff, found that the nuts had "slackened" quarter of a turn each, leak fixed. NO leaks evident from any quarter and the old girl is driving better than ever, no diesl rattle smooth as silk. I am chuffed with my 20 yr old disco. Owned for 9.5 years total spend incl purchase price (£2k) but not service costs etc £4.5K includes new boot, sills and wheel arches.