Royston 90
Active Member
Whereabouts are you in Hertfordshire ? I have the correct torque wrench for these sort of jobs & am in the Herts/cambs border if needed.
Dan.
Dan.
Hi, many thanks for that, I'm in Ashwell & I'd be only too pleased to borrow it or I'll get it ready for torquing & you can pop round. The hub turned up today & I'm now waiting on the ball joints so I'll let you know when I'm ready if that's ok, many thanks again.
Royston 90
Active Member
That's fine I will pop it round to you. I will send you a pm.For future reference, this is the brand I bought 2 years ago…
Today I removed the hub carrier so I could start on the knuckle ball joints. The removal tool I got doesn't have all the right attachments to do the job so I improvised with a couple of sockets. I had to cot the threaded part of the ball joints off as the attachments aren't deep enough once you get the b/joint so far but with a bit of heat using a Rothenberg blow torch I screwed the g clamp up as tight as I could then to 'break' the seal I had to give the removal tool a couple of wacks then once started it was all straight forward. I finished the day by giving the knuckle a bit of red oxide & some marine grease to give it a bit of protection until tomorrow when I replace the drive shaft seal & fit the new ball joints as they're in the freezer for the night 
.
.
It's strange there's no bearing maker's info on the aftermarket hubs unlike the genuine ones, makes you wonder if they all come out the same factory just in different boxes.For future reference, this is the brand I bought 2 years ago…
Getting the ball joint/taper to separate wasn't too bad, the top one I hammered the separator in then got two hammers & hit simultaneously on the carrier where the tapers are & it just popped, on the bottom one I again knocked the splitter tool in & applied some heat (as I couldn't use the two hammer trick) & with a few more blows on the splitter it was job done. As I said in my other post the kit I got doesn't have all the proper attachments but with the addition of a few sockets straightly place it was pretty straight forward. It was only the hub bearing that was kaput but I'm glad I decided to do the ball joints & drive shaft seal as well so this side should be sorted for a few years yet.
Hi, I didn't find the remover wandered but it could do with some deeper & correct diameter cylindrical bits as I had to improvise a bit by cutting off the threaded part of the ball joint & using sockets to push them out but for the price I'm not complaining.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
Good work
Almost got both the knuckle ball joints in, top one went in fine putting the tool through the lower ball joint hole but I could only get the lower one 1/2 way in, as the only attachment that's the right diameter to do the pressing isn't deep enough to accommodate the threaded part of the ball joint (which is why I had to cut the threaded part off the old ones). So I'm having some longer/deeper attachments made to finish the job. All rather frustrating as it's so close & seeing as I'm camping at the LR show in Peterborough all weekend I don't think I'll finish it until next week now .
. Thats really good you made progress with this .......I have read that so many people take this job to a garage to be done with £600-£1000 plus bills.
I would be one of those as I am too weedy to do this.
You deserve a break at the show in Peterborough and start afresh next week,It will go better then.!
I would be one of those as I am too weedy to do this.
You deserve a break at the show in Peterborough and start afresh next week,It will go better then.!
Thanks for that, that does sound expensive as the parts,genuine aside, are about £26 upper & lower. With the correct tools & not grovelling about on the floor like me I would have thought it would take 3 hours. New driveshaft seal/hub/tyres, hub carrier painted so all ready to go, just waiting on the attachments.
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
I had a quote of £600 for both BJs, both sides. Needless to say, im doing it myself!
Royston 90
Active Member
Looking good there. Shame that lower ball joint wouldn`t play ball. Hopefully the new attachment eases it in.
Dan.
Dan.
meego
Well-Known Member
Mate, when I done mine I used a bit of 2” square hollow section and shaped it to let me push in the joint all the way. I had a proper Ingersol press tool too that I borrowed from a mate. It had multiple sleeves and adaptors too.Almost got both the knuckle ball joints in, top one went in fine putting the tool through the lower ball joint hole but I could only get the lower one 1/2 way in, as the only attachment that's the right diameter to do the pressing isn't deep enough to accommodate the threaded part of the ball joint (which is why I had to cut the threaded part off the old ones). So I'm having some longer/deeper attachments made to finish the job. All rather frustrating as it's so close & seeing as I'm camping at the LR show in Peterborough all weekend I don't think I'll finish it until next week now
I finally got the lower ball joint in today after having the extra sleeve made up, applying a bit more heat & plenty of sweat (I must admit the ball joint fitting tool took a bit of abuse where I had to hit it, then tighten it several times to get the last half in .
Although the joint is smooth can I put some more grease in it, if so what type should go in there ? As I can't imagine that having the ball joint in the freezer & the heat that's been transferred would have done much for the grease that was in there so I want to pull the boot off & re-grease it. Thanks in advance.
On another note, I called in to a local-ish LR indie earlier this week to get a quote for getting the other side done as I don't think I could face doing another set. I explained that it will come apart no problem as I'd had the hub carrier out to do the d/shaft oil seal that side along with new disc/caliper & bolts under a 1,000 miles ago but was still quoted up to £1500 yes £1500 to do it. They did say it might only take a couple of hours which would be about £200 & probably worth paying but I would want to take the chance. He also said you can just change the boots (they're perished) if there's no play in the joint so I will check that first.
. Although the joint is smooth can I put some more grease in it, if so what type should go in there ? As I can't imagine that having the ball joint in the freezer & the heat that's been transferred would have done much for the grease that was in there so I want to pull the boot off & re-grease it. Thanks in advance.
On another note, I called in to a local-ish LR indie earlier this week to get a quote for getting the other side done as I don't think I could face doing another set
. I explained that it will come apart no problem as I'd had the hub carrier out to do the d/shaft oil seal that side along with new disc/caliper & bolts under a 1,000 miles ago but was still quoted up to £1500 yes £1500 to do it. They did say it might only take a couple of hours which would be about £200 & probably worth paying but I would want to take the chance. He also said you can just change the boots (they're perished) if there's no play in the joint so I will check that first.Well done Andy you have done a good job and deserve to have the other one by a garage.So if you had to have both done you could end up with a £3k bill...which is scary.
But £200 is more acceptable.I would hope a garage having done it many times would be speedy at doing it and have lots of tools to hand.Plus you have told them that some of the initial stuff will come apart easy.
I have been quoted £200 to have my O2 cells fitted.With a ramp I think I could do it myself.But without I would struggle. I think tats a lot 4 nuts and unplug 4 connectors.
But £200 is more acceptable.I would hope a garage having done it many times would be speedy at doing it and have lots of tools to hand.Plus you have told them that some of the initial stuff will come apart easy.
I have been quoted £200 to have my O2 cells fitted.With a ramp I think I could do it myself.But without I would struggle. I think tats a lot 4 nuts and unplug 4 connectors.
I'll get some replacement boots ordered for the other side in the hope there's no play in the joints (the hub carrier/swivel all seemed smooth when I did the d/shaft seal). I managed to pick up two excellent condition fr. shock turrets from the show last w/end, £5 each, so I'll get one fitted to this side tomorrow & then I can finish putting that side together (this is as far as I got today, see pic). Just got to get a mate round to stand on the brake pedal when I go to fit the hub/carrier. Thanks for your kind comments, all the best with the o2 sensors.
Thanks for your kind comments, all the best with the o2 sensors.
I managed to get the hub fitted this lunchtime & torqued up. I now have to fit the suspension turret that side & get the wheel on then give it a road test, once that's done I can check the n/s ball joints & hopefully get away with just replacing the boots on them then change the turret that side & a wheel alignment check should have the front end sorted.
I would just like to say a massive thanks to @Royston90 for the loan of the torque wrench.
I would just like to say a massive thanks to @Royston90 for the loan of the torque wrench.
