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Webley1991

Well-Known Member
The last time I had my Series Three out on the road (about two months ago), the brakes started to pull to one side.

I removed the wheel and brake drum on the side which had started to pull and found that oil had leaked into the brake drum from the hub bearing. This had then covered the brake shoe linings in oil as soon as the vehicle was moved.

Prior to when I last used it, it had stood for a couple of months before that during the unusually hot weather. I assume that the oil had leaked during this time.

I have also been told that the oil seals can leak when stood idle for a while. Is there any truth to that or is it a myth?

I had the axles rebuilt with new seals back in 2014, so would hope that they hadn't already failed. I would also like to be sure that removing the hub is absolutely necessary before I consider doing it.

I am hoping it is just a case of degreasing the inside of the brake drum and replacing the shoes, but am aware that it may leak again straight away.

Thanks for any replies.
 
standing can spoil a seal and 4 years is plenty of time for one to fail, parts are a lottery at times,you need to fit a new seal and ensure bearings are adjusted correctly ie no free play else hub can move against the seal
 
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Its a faff but not a big job. The hardest part is re-adusting the wheel bearings. A lot depends on what seal was fitted, I now buy the "premium" (green) ones, ie about £5 not £2.
 
I have found that more goes wrong by not driving it than driving it. Brake slave cylinders were a favourite for corroding and leaking through lack of use. For past three years I make a point of trying to use it once a week if only for 3-4 miles. The longest I leave it without use is 2 weeks. Since adopting this approach these sorts of issues have stopped.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have been reading the procedure in the Repair Operations Manual. I see that it involves a dial indicator to set the bearing end float.

What is the best way to clean out all of the old grease from the bearings without any grit or contamination getting in?
 
Never used a dial gauge , nip it up with the box key slacken a tiny amount and check whell spins freely fit lock tab and second nut check wheel spins freely inner nut tends to try and tighten a little when you fit the second nut once satisfied bend lock tab over inner nut on one section then outer nut on another.
Wipe the grease out with a clean rag is usually sufficient.
 
Wipe with soft rag if its not got dirty. Otherwise put it in an old dish with some petrol in and use a cheap new paint brush, obviously don't smoke! Diesel also works but is more messy. I use a dial gauge and its a right faff, better do a Blackburn says, there is a rule of thumb as to how much to slacken. Just getting the mag base for the dial gauge in the right place takes forever once you include knocking everytime you adjust the nut.
 
I would echo the above, I have never bothered using the dial gauge and just tighten up and back it off a bit. the trick is knowing how much the "a bit" should be.
Unless the grease is contaminated with dirt or has gone very hard from lack of use there should not be a need to clean it off and can be left in place with new grease packed in on top.
 
Thanks for the replies.

How about using a couple of centre punch marks on the nut to ensure that it is re-aligned in the same place?
 
Webley1991 said:
Thanks for the replies.

How about using a couple of centre punch marks on the nut to ensure that it is re-aligned in the same place?
Click to expand...
adjust the first nut so as it just removes any free play you can feel that easily if you turn the box spanner by hand,then fit tab washer and tighten outer nut tight, not with a hugely long bar but similar to a long screw driver through the box spanner, wheel bearing wants no play but wants no pressure from nut either
 
Thanks for the reply.

The repair operations manual says to fill the hubs "to half capacity" with bearing grease. What exactly does that mean?

I also have free-wheeling hubs fitted at the moment, and have been considering changing back to plain drive flanges. This would be the ideal chance to do it.

As an aside, someone at work asked if I could help them change the front brake discs and pads on a Mitsubishi Shogun. It turns out the front discs are mounted on the back of the hubs, which means that the hubs have to come off to change them. When I found out about that I told him I wanted nothing to do with it.
 
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The shoguns probably got sealed wheel bearings so removing hub should not be an issue.
Generally put some grease in the gap between bearings and on the bearings them selves you cannot fill the space as the stub shaft has to be able to go through.
Have a look at how much grease is in when you remove and that will give you an idea of what is required.
The time you talked about it could have had the job done.
 
Thanks for the reply. The problem is that the Land Rover is not stored at where I live. I would probably have done it by now if it was outside the house. I like to be absolutely sure I know what I am doing before getting into a job, as I don't want to mess anything else up and have to waste money on parts I didn't really need.

From the parts diagrams, am I right that I should need the following parts:

Oil Seal RTC3510 x 2
Felt Washer RTC3515 x 2
Drive Member Gasket GFG106 x 2
Split Pin PS608101L x 2
 
Before ordering the parts I would pull the hub off the side that leaks as the seal land may be worn also , need to check.
What year is your landrover as the later ones the seal land is part of the stub shaft assembly. and not renewable.
 
It's a 1972 Series 3 88".

The repair operation manual I have which is dated later than that shows the process of drilling and splitting the seal land.
 
Buy a couple of seal lands if you have them to hand they are easily fitted.
If you tap the side with a cold chisel they will come off easier than drilling.
 
They don't cost much but make sure yours are removable before you take a chisle to them! Look very carefully at the join between the alnd ring and the stub axle. They should be replaceable but there's always a chance a later hub has been fitted and if you take a chisle to that you are deep poo.
 
Something I forgot to ask the first time is what size socket will I need for the lock nuts?

Also, is it possible that the oil could have leaked through from inside the swivel hub? If so, what is the solution to that?
 
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