nicedayforit
New Member
52mm
I found it not necessary to torque Landrover hub nuts up to a specified torque, and got better results from 'feel'. Basically make sure all bearings are fully home before assembly, tighten up very tightly whilst turning the bearings/hub assembly, back off a full turn, then come in again until it bites fully again and back off about 1/8th of a turn ... ish .. 
I know there are torques specified to tighten to, but Landrover themselves show this tool (well, very similar at least) in the workshop manual.
I know there are torques specified to tighten to, but Landrover themselves show this tool (well, very similar at least) in the workshop manual.
I found it not necessary to torque Landrover hub nuts up to a specified torque, and got better results from 'feel'. Basically make sure all bearings are fully home before assembly, tighten up very tightly whilst turning the bearings/hub assembly, back off a full turn, then come in again until it bites fully again and back off about 1/8th of a turn ... ish ..
I know there are torques specified to tighten to, but Landrover themselves show this tool (well, very similar at least) in the workshop manual.
Thanks for this advice too Paul - top bloke!
nathan5346
Well-Known Member
wished id have known this last week, changed the rear hub seals and the bearings while i was at it i screwed the nut on and checked for play and tightened the nut 2 faces of the nut and the washer lined up (if ya know what i mean) hope that'll be ok.... seems ok
Heheheh, might be OK Nathan .. First time you tighten the inner nut is really to make sure all bearing races are seated and square/perpendicular to shaft, hence why you also turn the hub assembly as you do it .. do it really tight (LR say 60+NM, but using a hubnut and tommy bar very tightly works out near enough this) then back off, tighten again and back off 1/8th, gives just enough float to the bearings without allowing wheel wobble.
After a run feel the wheel/hub area for heat .. if it's really hot you may have overtightened the bearing or not seated it correctly. I know there's always some heat there from brake discs, but you're feeling for excessive (very hot!!) heat ...
After a run feel the wheel/hub area for heat .. if it's really hot you may have overtightened the bearing or not seated it correctly. I know there's always some heat there from brake discs, but you're feeling for excessive (very hot!!) heat ...
byway-basher
New Member
Haynes offer 2 completely different procedures and specifications depending on chassis number.
Early: The first nut is done to endfloat rather than torque, the 2nd (locking) nut is 45 lbft.
Late, 45lbft, then loosen right off and then retighten to just 3lbft. 45 again for the locking nut.
For newmoney wrenches 45lbft is 61Nm and 3lbft is 4Nm.
Early: The first nut is done to endfloat rather than torque, the 2nd (locking) nut is 45 lbft.
Late, 45lbft, then loosen right off and then retighten to just 3lbft. 45 again for the locking nut.
For newmoney wrenches 45lbft is 61Nm and 3lbft is 4Nm.
Quick tip mate when you get the hub off instead of rolling around the yard trying to undo those disc bolts lay your wheel down on the yard and put your hub back onto the wheel dont need wheelnuts the wheels weight will allow you to undo and remove the old discs.Then fit your discs and retighten the new discs back up.
cheers wodge
cheers wodge
